Also I've noticed there are 2 different relays. 0762D4 and 1892D4 both 4 pin relays. Which one goes to which?
I been watch'n too much You Tube............
- Thread starter Kgilbert
- Start date
Post photos of relay, their schematic and their terminals underneath. Most relays on bike are interchangeable. Different numbers may be different vendor's IDs.
Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
It should, but others who have mixed these two connectors have reported that there was no fault code. I don't know why that is.
FI blink codes only occur for known-errors pre-programmed into ECU. If you have an error like blown fuse or bulb or something not pre-programmed into ECU, you won't get FI code. Look up all codes in manual and you can be assured those issues aren't present. However, there's many, many other faults that can occur that won't throw code...
You'll need Honda's HDS system to connect to that red connector to query ECU. It uses older serial K-line protocol (HDS_TABx) , so there's no modern ODB2 tools you can connect that'll talk to it. Most useful function of that red connector is for gear-indicators.
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Andrew Shadow
Site Supporter
That is the ECM diagnostic connector, used for accessing and clearing the ECM fault codes.
It can also be used to connect a scanner to the ECM but it does not use the standard OBD protocols as automobiles so a special scanner is needed which is really pricey, at least from Honda.
Below is a link to how to check and clear the fault codes.
Fault code reading process and a list of the codes.
Here's how injectors and coil circuits work. They're all ground-switched circuits.
1. getting power to coils is just 1st step, so you should measure battery-power at coil's blk/wht terminals full-time, simple.
2. sparks are triggered by grounding other side of injectors/coils by ECM (point E. above). Measuring coil's trigger wires yel/blu and blu/yel wires would show this on oscilloscope; high most of time with periodic drops to ground to trigger sparks.
You can also use solenoid-light to monitor trigger line. It has duration-extending circuitry to keep light lit for at least 100ms for human-eyes to pick up flash from 5ms trigger signal. Most likely you won't be seeing any trigger flashes. Why? Why isn't ECM triggering injectors & sparks??? I'm sure you've put kickstand down to park bike when engine's running in gear, what happens???
I picked up this bike as a Barn Find. When I started troubleshooting, I found only 3 screws on the 65a fuse link. I didn't find the other screw. It wasn't in the plastic cover box. Nowhere to be found. Thats about the easiest way to disable a bike and to conceal it. How the hell does a screw fall outta this box? The relays would be another easy way to disable. Would be consistent with what I've found. I'm not sure but I smell a rat. Not a mouse, a rat....................But thats what I get for $550. and a bike with 25k miles..........
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Yeah, those relays are identical Omron G8HN-H75 models. Other numbers are some sort of manufacturing location/production run#, etc.
If they work, I wouldn't worry about them.
There's some better Huyndai relays available with coated terminals that don't corrode...
Test for spark by manually triggering ignition-circuit. Momentarily ground coil trigger-wires at ECM connector.
If sparks, then you've confirmed everything in ignition-circuit works from battery through relays & switches, coils, hi-ten wires and plugs.
All that's left is figuring out why ECM's not happy.
If they work, I wouldn't worry about them.
There's some better Huyndai relays available with coated terminals that don't corrode...
Test for spark by manually triggering ignition-circuit. Momentarily ground coil trigger-wires at ECM connector.
If sparks, then you've confirmed everything in ignition-circuit works from battery through relays & switches, coils, hi-ten wires and plugs.
All that's left is figuring out why ECM's not happy.
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There isn't a no fault code. F/O pump strokes. No spark to plugs. BL/Wh has power Bl/Yw doesn't.
Bamm.........Hammer meet nail...................Thank You sir
blu/yel is ground trigger. Should have power if ignition-coil is working properly. Power goes across coil's primary-winding to ground-trigger side (E. above) and just sits there. So has same potential as power-terminal. If you don't measure power on blu/yel and yel/blu when there's power on blk/wht, then coil's primary-winding is broken.
Seems engine has to be idling with kick-stand down to get codes. Otherwise, you can use shorting DLC connector to get codes to shown here:
ECMQuickGuide < ST13 < STWiki
As test, disconnect MAP sensor and do code flash procedure with jumpering DLC and see if you get error #2.
Also, any problem with a 2 amp trickle charge for a couple hours? Im draining my new battery down quite fast.........1.2a trickle isnt keeping up Thanks
I shorted B & gr/b got 18 code...............Pulse generator camshaft. If I remember right this tells ECM intake or exh stroke?blu/yel is ground trigger. Should have power if ignition-coil is working properly. Power goes across coil's primary-winding to ground-trigger side (E. above) and just sits there. So has same potential as power-terminal. If you don't measure power on blu/yel and yel/blu when there's power on blk/wht, then coil's primary-winding is broken.
Seems engine has to be idling with kick-stand down to get codes. Otherwise, you can use shorting DLC connector to get codes to shown here:
ECMQuickGuide < ST13 < STWiki
stwiki.notonthe.net
As test, disconnect MAP sensor and do code flash procedure with jumpering DLC and see if you get error #2.
Honda 30300-MCS-003 - GENERATOR ASSY., PULSE : Ron Ayers
www.ronayers.com
Isnt this crankshaft sensor ?Honda 30300-MCS-003 - GENERATOR ASSY., PULSE : Ron Ayers
I jumped the crank switch. same effect
Don’t use 2a, too high. Pull headlight fuse and use 1.2a. Also test for parasitic drain when everything’s OFF.
You jumpered crank pulse sensor? Why?
Don’t make any changes to system to troubleshoot, you’ll fry something and/or introduce additional errors into system. Passive measurements only and let numbers tell you exactly what’s wrong and how to fix it.
It’s like going to doctor, “We think your tiredness is because of weak heart. Let’s swap in another one to see if you feel better!” Nah, first up is always series of tests to gather numbers like BP, RHR, BMI, A1C, BUN, etc. Then based upon numbers, fault is identified 1st, before any corrective actions are taken.
These are not reed-switches like old-style speedos. They’re VR - variable reluctance sensors that have voice-coil over magnet and outputs an analogue waveform when trigger teeth flies past them.
Looks like this on oscilloscope:
ECU uses combination of cam & crank VR sensors to determine engine position and speed.
Codes 18 & 19 are for following conditions on CMP/CKP sensors:
1. loose or poor contact on cam/ignition pulse generator (high ohms out of range)
2. open or short-circuit in cam/ignition pulse generator (infinite ohms/OL or zero ohms)
3. faulty cam/ignition pulse generator (improper signal)
By jumpering crank sensor connector, you’ve created fault #2 in circuit on top of any existing errors.
By this, he means pull out meter, follow procedure in manual and measure.
1. Since this isn't a switch, sensors have coils with measurable impedance. Measure resistance of sensor at its connector, should be 400-600 ohms.
2. Measure sensor resistance again at ECM connector. This verifies wiring is OK between sensor and ECM. Doesn't matter one bit if sensor is perfectly OK if signal never makes it to ECM
3. Measure resistance of each sensor-wire to chassis-ground to verify it's not frayed and shorted to metal nearby. Some of these wires run across very hot metal and may have contacted something to melt insulation off.
4. measure peak VAC output of sensor at ECM connector when cranking. Should be > 0,7 VAC
These measurements being out-of-spec are possible causes behind error #18 & 19. When resistance-measurement of sensor is outside of normal range, ECM throws code. Or if signal doesn't meet minimum output levels.
Check these two connectors on the left side in front of the large connector.
They can get corrosion bridging the gap behind the connector, which will try and either prevent your bike from starting, or try and hot wire your bike by keeping the ignition hot when the key is removed.
Give me a minute, I can't seem to attach the picture for some reason.