I killed my Turn Signals and Flashers

[Sadlsor]

My turn signals and 4-way flashers are no longer working; I must have did somebody wrong!
Background: added trailer isolation harness for trailer wiring, powered by the rear taillight (not brake light.) This was done with the help of an electrician and rider buddy who has done lots of work on bikes. I got my trailer way far away, and ALL lights, signals, and flashers worked with the trailer attached, and rode home with no issues.
Weeks later, I added the quartet harness to power my Zumo XT, using a switched circuit. The GPS isn't powering on with bike power.
Also added Warm N Safe wiring - direct to battery - and that works fine, for gloves and jacket.
All other electrics working otherwise.
Today I finally had some time to explore, checked the main fuse on the right-hand side and it's good. Fusible link is intact.
There's a black box near the relays on the left side, and I think one of the mini fuses in the service manual said Turn Signal or Turn Signal Relay, I don't recall now, but it's a 10-amp and it was solid.
Found the turn signal relay on the left side, and called Larry because I thought I had to remove the rubber cover to test it. He said NO! so I didn't destroy it. I plugged the female side- the wired, non-relay white connector - into a couple of the other relays nearby and started the bike, but still no signals or flashers. I tried the turn signal relay on a couple of other connectors but not sure which ones; two were outboard - away from the center of the bike - of the turn signal relay. Still no flashers, but the bike started and ran, with headlights, hi-beam, horn and brake lights all working.
When I try to use the turn signals there is no audible clicking noise, and the front amber bulb on that side goes dark. Both sides do that.
I'm floundering, and am just guessing, doing plug-and-play, er, -pray.
2008 ST1300-A (ABS) with 28K and change, tires inflated to recommended pressure but I'm late with an oil change, and the bike is dirty but the tank is full of petrol.
I rode the bike today for a restaurant job nearby, and to get a car battery at Costco.
My left arm was busy in lieu of electric blinking bulbs to signal my intention at intersections. Do you think car drivers recognize the manual right hand turn signal?
Anyone who can help give me a sense of direction to track this down and repair it, would be appreciated. Surely it's something stupid-simple?

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Did the turn signals stop working after you connected the Zumo XT?
If so, what wires did you connect the Zumo XT to?

The quartet harness includes wires connected to the turn signal circuits. If the turn signals stopped working when the XT was wired in, I would look there.

 

[STRider]

If you plugged the Zumo into one of the quartet harness (QH) connectors, do the signals and flashers work if you disconnect the Zumo?

Did you use one of the three-pin connectors or the nine-pin connector for the Zumo's power? As @Andrew Shadow mentions, the main nine-pin female connector on the bike which the QH plugs into also has right (light blue) and left (orange) turn signal wires in it. The nine-pin connector on the QH pass those circuits through to another nine-pin connector which replicates what's on the bike's harness while breaking out three three-pin connectors for the accessories - heated grips, accessory light plug power outlet and audio (I believe). If you plugged the Zumo into the nine-pin connector on the QH you may have connected to the wrong circuit(s).

Article [13] - ST1300 - Quartent Harness/Heated Grips Schematic | ST1300 Articles

Click the link for a bigger version. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5AgdjJdxahQM2UzYzFiOTktY2MxYy00YWI5LWFhNTgtNDE5YjNjMDI2MTYx/view?usp=sharing&resourcekey=0-GNOqTiMxhGqwnJYuDq9onw Link Updated: 7.Oct.2021

www.st-owners.com

You can see the nine-pin connector of the QH behind the thick black wire bundle just above my hand along with the three other three-pin connectors of the QH.

 

[jfheath]

I think that the turn signal 'relay' is a solid state device. It doesn't make a noise. It has a different product code from all of the other relays, as it does a different job. It has to turn on and off pairs of indicator bulbs. Im not sure how it copes with hazard lights. I'll find out when I can get to my magnifying glass and the full circuit diagram.



What info I do have at hand shows shows a 15A fuse for Turn, Acc. Fuse F. Which would be correct - 4 hazard lights at 21w each is around 7A at 12v. Leaves enough for the quartet harness heated grips.

If you have a 3 pin connector to fit the 3 on the quartet harness, try your gps in any of the other two that you haven't tried. One of the three connectors provides power that comes on with ignition, one with accessories. These two have only two wires connected.
Only one connector has three wires - the black one in the images below, but your harness may vary. If you use this one, the gps may always be on. The 3 quartet connectors get their power from three different fuses.

For that 3P connector, the earth wire is aways closest to the locating groove / ridge in the side of the housing - on the left when seen as shown int he photos below.

Since I have seen information that suggests that the colours used are not the same from one harness to the next, it would be a good idea to check the voltage of each pin for yourself. The images below show the connector with the groove and the earth wire on the left.

 

[Hound]

On my bike the turn signal/hazards/acc fuse is a 15A - "F" in the fusebox.

I changed my relay many years ago to one that can handle LED bulbs without hyper-flashing, and also operate incandescent if required. The relay is a simple one with only two connections. It's hidden away a bit at the back of the other relays, though.



I'd send you my old relay which I have doubtless squirrelled away somewhere, but I haven't a clue where it is. Here's an inexpensive one on fleaBay:

Turn Signal Flasher Relay FE246BH for Honda ST1300 2003 to 2010 models H155 | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Turn Signal Flasher Relay FE246BH for Honda ST1300 2003 to 2010 models H155 at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

This one's cheaper, says it's for a Yamaha but part number is the same (FE246BH).

Yamaha YZF R6 R1 FZ1 TURN SIGNAL BLINKER RELAY FLASHER SWITCH # FE246BH | eBay

Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Yamaha YZF R6 R1 FZ1 TURN SIGNAL BLINKER RELAY FLASHER SWITCH # FE246BH at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!

www.ebay.com

 

[Sadlsor]

On Jan 15 this year, I connected the Zumo XT to the RED 3-pin connector on the quartet harness; IIRC I was going for SWITCHED Power AND ACCESSORY Power. I "think" that's why I selected that one, after reading the pinouts for the harness multiple times. After posting this, I am going to unplug the GPS and report back...

 

[Obo]

0. you said you checked fuses. If not, do it again.

1. check a bulb. The front turn signals are easiest. If the bulb is bad, replace and re-check. If it works then check the other front. If it's bad, you've likely blown them all and need to find "why."

2. check the relay under the left panel. The relay does both turns and 4 ways. The power comes into the handlebar switch from the relay and if you use the direction signal switch it goes one way. Use the 4 ways and it goes to both. (sort of like a jumper.)

3. check the switch assembly on the handlebar.

4. check the wiring connectors under the Tupperware around the quartet harness. Look for loose connectors, wires etc.

 

[SMSW]

Did you pull the fuses and check them with a continuity tester?

 

[Sadlsor]

I clipped loose my pretty, tidy, and ineffective wiring and disconnected my white connector from the red 3-pin connector at the quartet harness.
No turn signals, no flashers, no joy with the key on. Engine not started... should go blinky-blink without it running.
My wired white connector at the bottom center, black shiny quartet harness up top-center in the picture.
When I connected the quartet harness, I confirmed I had power to two of the pins in the 3-pin red connector, one wire with key on and another wire with key in ACC positions, and no voltage with the key off.
Now I must leave for work and dog walk, not in that order, so I'll check in later and review your suggestions.
Thanks to all VERY MUCH; I'm sure you'll steer me to this easy fix that is apparently beyond me...

 

[jfheath]

When I connected the quartet harness, I confirmed I had power to two of the pins in the 3-pin red connector, one wire with key on and another wire with key in ACC positions, and no voltage with the key off.

Your quartet harness is different from mine then - for me it is the black connector that has the 3 pins wired. My red connector has 2 pins wired as shown a few posts back.
Which pins did you wire in your white connector? The two outside ones ? I don't need an answer - but you do. Because if it is the outer one, and it is connected to the 3P connector which has 3 wires connected, then you may have wired your GPS to the 'always on' feed. - which comes from a different fuse - Fuse J in my case, which also powers the clock.. That would be the case if your wiring matches my pics a few posts back.

The colours of the actual wires should be consistent, even if the colours of the connectors isn't.

Nb the connections that come on with accessories, also come on with ignition - which is what you would want for your GPS. There Q harness has on lead (white in my photos) that has a connection which comes on with ignition, but not with accessories. That would be for heated grips. The accessories position is designed to turn on only a minimum number of components to keep the current draw as low as possible.

I did away with the quartet harness and made my own version with a 9 pin connector and leads that go exactly where I want them to be - so that I didn't have all of that wiring bundled up where the harness is supposed to fit.

 

[Hound]

This thread started by Joe (Mellow) has some helpful info.

Article [13] - ST1300 - Quartet Harness Pinout | ST1300 Articles

Disclaimer This document is provided strictly for entertainment purposes. Information in this document does not replace, enhance, or supersede information contained in Honda Owner's Manuals, Service Manuals, or other Honda publications. The contents of this document should not be considered...

www.st-owners.com

My phone didn't show all of John's very useful content a few posts up, so apologies for duplicating info.

 

[Willsmotorcycle]

It's probably the late oil change... Try swapping out the fuses that look good with known good. More than once I could not see that a fuse was blown, the smaller the harder.

 

[Willsmotorcycle]

And of course that 14 pin green ground block above the headlight right side.

 

[STRider]

Just for reference I found a different photo of the business end of my quartet harness. As per John's post above, you can see my black connector has three pins. In this photo I had just attached an empty nine-pin male connector to the QH along with my accessories attached to the three three-pin connectors. I hope this helps. (I took this photo for exactly this purpose!)

Full disclosure, I bought mine from used from CMS in the Netherlands when there were none to be found in stock in the USA. If there's indeed a difference between those sold in Europe vs. North America, mine's likely a European version.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

If there's indeed a difference between those sold in Europe vs. North America, mine's likely a European version.

Mine was ordered directly from Honda Canada through a Canadian Honda dealer, so it is whatever was distributed to North America and is the same as yours.
As far as I remember there was only one quartet harness P/N, so it would be the same everywhere.

The Quartet Harness 3-Pin Black Connector has wires in all three positions.
The Quartet Harness 3-Pin Red Connector has wires in the two outer positions only.
The Quartet Harness 3-Pin Natural/White Connector has wires in the two outer positions only.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

More than once I could not see that a fuse was blown, the smaller the harder.

It is much more reliable to test fuses using a 12V test light, even better than using a continuity tester/OHM meter.
With the fuse installed and the ignition switch in whatever position is required to supply power to the fuse being tested, probe both of the exposed metal on either side of the fuse with the test light tip while the alligator clip is connected to a known good ground. If the test light does not illuminate when touched to both sides of the fuse, or not at all, there is something wrong.

 

[SMSW]

Mark, It's always the last thing you check that was the problem.

Someone has to figure out how to look at that thing FIRST.

 

[naedlaen]

But if it was the first thing that was the issue, it would still be the last thing looked at if it fixed the issue.



Neal

 

[SMSW]

But if it was the first thing that was the issue, it would still be the last thing looked at if it fixed the issue. Neal

Lets not get too fancy with facts.

 

[STRider]

Mark, It's always the last thing you check that was the problem.
Someone has to figure out how to look at that thing FIRST.

But if it was the first thing that was the issue, it would still be the last thing looked at if it fixed the issue.
Neal

Lets not get too fancy with facts.

Funny that this happened to get posted on r/motorcycle today.

The reply from THE MOD is priceless...