I killed my Turn Signals and Flashers

[Chris09]

like Pauly said to Henry, don't do it, just don't do it, never add anything, even a charger cord, thought I'd be the last person to tell you that,

 

[Willsmotorcycle]

This is not a hijacking! I pulled the plastics for maintenance and some more cool stuff that I don't really need... Was thinking about Mark while I'm poking around, and thought hey, I didn't know this, and how do I use the spares @STRider ? My last post in this thread was check the grounds because the fuse was "good" and the relay is good, my simple brain says check the grounds next. I actually would have checked the wrong fuse. I would have pulled the 15 that is next to the 10, not the single 15. Anyone know how to wire the spares?

 

[Sadlsor]

I understood "spare" was just that... an extra fuse, in an un-wired / not-powered cubbyhole in the fusebox, to replace a 10- or 15-amp that may have blown elsewhere.
Based on my understanding of same, what do you mean by "Anyone know how to wire the spares?"
Y'all are making me feel even more dense about bike wiring than I previously thought I was.

 

[Willsmotorcycle]

I thought the 3 in the narrow box were also spares, the 15 is wired, and its my turn and acc. I looked at the underside and can see the slots for terminals, and I wonder can I put in terminals and use that box to hold the fuse instead of some random inline fuse. I'm sure it harder than I'm making it sound.

 

[Sadlsor]

OK, I can see that as a possibility.
Complexity comes from whatever you want to power, and where it's gonna be located, I reckon. As well as how devoted you are to this project, instead of going with another power source and all that.
But trust me... you don't want to take any electrical bike wiring advice from me...

 

[SMSW]

Usually spares in a fuse block are unused - that is, the lugs below the fuse are connected to the battery on the line side (+), but there is no spade or other connector attached to the load side. I'm speaking in general terms. When I had my ST I never looked for spare spaces because I added an eastern beaver PC 8 and wired from there. @Andrew Shadow, do you know the answer to Wills question?

 

[Willsmotorcycle]

Im using wrong terminology. Still learning how to add text to pictures too.

 

[Hound]

Fuse bays with no connections from beneath can have wiring added with connectors like these:

 

[Al st1100]

I thought the 3 in the narrow box were also spares, the 15 is wired, and its my turn and acc. I looked at the underside and can see the slots for terminals, and I wonder can I put in terminals and use that box to hold the fuse instead of some random inline fuse. I'm sure it harder than I'm making it sound.

you need to find the terminals that push in from behind. The ones that fit that box will be a problem to find as the part is not listed. pull one out and match it or find an old fuse box to steal a terminal. solder one to the power bar and a long wire to the other one. Stick a fuse in there and it's good to go.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

@Andrew Shadow, do you know the answer to Wills question?

Depends on the vehicle, and I don't know specifically about the ST1300 fuse box because I never looked at it because I have an auxilary fuse box.

In general;
On some cars one side of the fuse is already connected to the 12V + as you stated. The 12v + terminal is used a retainer to hold the spare fuse in place. To use that fuse slot to power a circuit you simply need to add a second terminal for the second leg of the fuse and run the wiring. On American cars the terminals needed for fuse boxes were commonly available at any dealer and I'm sure most electrical supply stores as well. I would hazard a guess that the same is true for Japanese vehicles in general, including motorcycles. I don't know if they are the same size/type of terminals as what is used used in American cars but I would look at Cycle Terminals to see if he has them because he is Japanese motorcycle specific.

On other cars the spare fuse holder is just that, a spare fuse holder. It is not connected to the 12V + power supply like the rest of the fuse slots. This makes it a little more involved because you have to not only get power from the fuse, but you also have to get power to the fuse. In some cases you might also need to cut slots in to the spare fuse holder for the terminal and wires to exit because they are blind holes as they were intended to be used only as spare fuse holders.

 

[SMSW]

Based on @Willsmotorcycle's pictures, I'd guess that the vacant slots have nothing in them. Look with a flashlight, no metallic parts below means it is just a hollow housing. Pull the spare fuses and probe with a multi meter (ignition on) to see if you have voltage to ground from one of the two terminals at the bottom of the socket. If so, then your problem is to make up a connector + wiring for the load side of that fuse.

From my pov, it is better to use an aux fusebox. Honda had an eye on saving money when they built these bikes. They also had no idea what owners would be likely to add to the electrical system. Toss in the fact that many of their wired circuits were designed for exactly the load carried (and not a few amps more), and you have a bit of a task if you wish to use the fuse box's spares: What is the fusebox capable of supplying in additional load to the OEM equipment? Sure you can go to the wire size, and fuse upstream of the fuse box, but I prefer to design and install my own aux fuse panel. That is easier to remove should I want to sell the bike, and I know what I planned.

 

[ST Gui]

Im using wrong terminology.

?



Did you remove the 10A and 15A SPARE fuses? Or were those slots empty when you got the bike? Mine are still there as they were installed at the factory. I wouldn't bother with wiring those two left sockets to convert them to functional sockets and eliminating the handy spare storage.

If adding circuit functionality I'd opt for installing a relay to have more "On with the bike IGN/ACC and Off with the bike IGN/ACC functionality and flexibility. You could do this with or without commercial fusebox/relay kit depending one what you want to add but a fusebox adds a lot of options.

Maybe you'll never need them but until you decide to wire those vacant spaces why not put a couple of spares in there. (I've used one and need to replace it – LOL).

 

[Willsmotorcycle]

Mark, did you get it sorted?

 

[Obo]

Mark, did you get it sorted?

It's still on the blink, even though it's not.

 

[Sadlsor]

I wish they would blink.
Sadly, I'm busier than a one-armed wallpaper hanger in a fanny-kicking contest.
Or something like that...

 

[Obo]

Since we've talked on multiple other threads about this, and that they are still on the blink, let's see if we can collectively get these working for you so you don't have to rely on hand signals!


Oh, and as for the discussion about putting some wire loom on those trailer wires, here's how I did mine. And yes, I'm shamelessly plugging WoodSToc.

I had hard loom coming out the side of the bike into the expandable soft loom, but when I put the side case on it jammed it up, so I had to remove it. I'll tuck and tidy the soft loom into the body later. Velcro holds the loom & wire to the hitch in 2 spots.

Drilled the hole in the Tupperware with a step bit and it feeds right into the tail section by the ECU where my relays are.

YMMV.

 

[Larry Fine]

I hid mine behind the right support:

 

[Sadlsor]

Both are nicer than my temporary routing. I'm going to try to hide all I can, behind the fender but ensuring it can't contact the rear tire.
I can hide it behind the pannier, but there's no need for that if I bring the pigtail closer to the taillight.
I want to get a newer 5-pin flat connector too, this was a used one that I got from Dan who sold me the trailer.