Installing a RH police switch on a civillian 1300

Joined
Sep 16, 2018
Messages
408
Location
Northern Baltimore suburbs
Bike
ST-1300A '09/'12
2024 Miles
000298
I think this may have been discussed before but I can't, for the life of me, find the thread. I've found plenty on how to actually wire the extra switches on a police bike, however.

So I purchased a cheap police RH switch/throttle assembly on ebay to determine the feasibility of replacing my civilian RH switch with a police version (I already have risers). The police assembly has 2 electrical connectors, and an extra wire, whereas the civilian only has one. So i unplugged the civilian connector and plugged in the matching red police connector. When I turned on the bike, I found that the starter wouldn't engage but the kill switch appeared to work (I could hear the relay turn on and off). Also the on/off for the headlights works but not for the parking lights. I'm guessing that this is because the police switch taps into the same circuit the start button does to kill the lights when engaged.

It's possiible, even likely, that the switch I purchased is defective: When I jiggle the wire next to the handle, the headlight flickers.

Anyhow, if there is already a thread on this subject, please point me towards it. I'm just wondering if anyone has insight before I start digging into electrical diagrams.
 
Methinks the p-spec switch misses the NO/NC configuration on the starter button...
So you'll likely might have to re-pin the connectors in some way...
But others did it, so:
 
Methinks the p-spec switch misses the NO/NC configuration on the starter button...
So you'll likely might have to re-pin the connectors in some way...
But others did it, so:
Thanks!

After reading that thread, and associated document, I remembered that the Police handlebars are a different diameter. Not sure if I really want to go through the hassle now.
 
Is the ST1300 Police switch 'the same' as the ST1100 Police switch?
If so the ones I have fit 7/8" inch handlebars - which are the stock size on ST1100s.
But you do have to have some 'risers' or the bottom of the switch will hit the gas tank cover on ST1100s.
Don't know that info helps you or not.
 
I've moded a handful of PA kill switches to fit the civies. The brake reservoir must be moved to make room for the larger housing. It sounds like @Nexus has a bad kill switch if the FI does not come on from OFF Mode.
You sir, have a dud.

I have the switch diagram for the AUX switches if you need it.
1685494052669.png
 
Is the ST1300 Police switch 'the same' as the ST1100 Police switch?
Not sure.

If so the ones I have fit 7/8" inch handlebars - which are the stock size on ST1100s.
But you do have to have some 'risers' or the bottom of the switch will hit the gas tank cover on ST1100s.
I do have risers already. So that wouldn't be a problem. Thanks, but I thinking I'm going to follow @spiderman302 's suggestion and look at clutch/brake reservoir switches.
 
Is the ST1300 Police switch 'the same' as the ST1100 Police switch?
I believe so. I have never seen a different version of the right police switch pod for either bike.

Nor have I ever seen a left switch pod different from the standard for either the 1100 or 1300.
 
ST13 police bars are longer by an inch or so. I did the mod on mine because I go through security gates for work and wanted to be able to turn my headlights off. The running lights are wired differently on a P as well.
If I remember correctly I did have to swap pins around for the start switch. My service manual at home has the P supplement so I will check.
 
I think this may have been discussed before but I can't, for the life of me, find the thread. I've found plenty on how to actually wire the extra switches on a police bike, however.

So I purchased a cheap police RH switch/throttle assembly on ebay to determine the feasibility of replacing my civilian RH switch with a police version (I already have risers). The police assembly has 2 electrical connectors, and an extra wire, whereas the civilian only has one. So i unplugged the civilian connector and plugged in the matching red police connector. When I turned on the bike, I found that the starter wouldn't engage but the kill switch appeared to work (I could hear the relay turn on and off). Also the on/off for the headlights works but not for the parking lights. I'm guessing that this is because the police switch taps into the same circuit the start button does to kill the lights when engaged.

It's possiible, even likely, that the switch I purchased is defective: When I jiggle the wire next to the handle, the headlight flickers.

Anyhow, if there is already a thread on this subject, please point me towards it. I'm just wondering if anyone has insight before I start digging into electrical diagrams.
A couple of things to think about. I had to change out the handlebars, and the throttle cables.
I stalled one on my 2012. I have another switch for my 2010, but haven't done it yet, since I haven't picked up the cables and handlebars yet.
 
Your plan B:
The 605 is the chrome one and the 705 is the black one. (post #4 above)
the LMA, LA goes on the clutch side and the MA, A is the brake side.
These fit the ST1300 and is what I have been using for the last 7 years.
I had to look it up to make sure since I can't remember that far back.......
Made for a simple clean installation and mine is on the left side clutch.
1-fog (on forks), 2-passing (over mirrors), 3-driving lights (also over mirrors).
(driving only works with the high beam power). This is how I have it but..
It could be an "or" function so that the driving light could be used with out the high beam as a conspicuous day time light.
see link here: passing and driving light in one package.
my fog light is still the little zoom light on the forks found in a previous posting #17 from the above link.
read the whole thread as it has lots of good info.
enjoy the ride.
 
Last edited:
A couple of things to think about. I had to change out the handlebars, and the throttle cables.
I stalled one on my 2012. I have another switch for my 2010, but haven't done it yet, since I haven't picked up the cables and handlebars yet.
Yeah, the switch I bought, off ebay, had the throttle cables attached. One of the problems with replacing the handle bars is that the bolts are super tight and I'm afraid to strip them if I start wrestling with them.
 
Your plan B:
The 605 is the chrome one and the 705 is the black one. (post #4 above)
the LMA, LA goes on the clutch side and the MA, A is the brake side.
These fit the ST1300 and is what I have been using for the last 7 years.
I had to look it up to make sure since I can't remember that far back.......
Made for a simple clean installation and mine is on the left side clutch.
1-fog (on forks), 2-passing (over mirrors), 3-driving lights (also over mirrors).
(driving only works with the high beam power). This is how I have it but..
It could be an "or" function so that the driving light could be used with out the high beam as a conspicuous day time light.
see link here: passing and driving light in one package.
my fog light is still the little zoom light on the forks found in a previous posting #17 from the above link.
read the whole thread as it has lots of good info.
enjoy the ride.
Thanks! Good info!

I read that thread before and I actually have those same fog (zoom) lights installed on my PA.
 
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