Installing a usb charger on 1993 ST1100

jdmccright

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If the charger istelf has an on/off switch, it may or may not completely cut that circuit. You might think so but it might only act on the secondary/output side of the regulator not the primary/input side. You'd have to read the tech info or ask to really know. I would add my own switch into the wires going to/from it. For my setup with the 12V plugs, I just have to unplug the adapter.
 
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I have stealth install of this charger unit inside the right pocket. Connected it directly to the battery via fuse, so it always powered. I can put phone / headsets in the pocket and charge them on the go, or lock pocket and walk away without worry. Check you charging standard of the phone (Power Delivery or Quick Charge), because if standard is wrong, phone will charge veeery slowly. as a bonus, it has a voltmeter, very convenient to check battery voltage.

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W0QNX

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I can see where mine or alberto's would have a draw when the bike is off (the voltage display) but very little draw when the small button shown is off. I guess mine being ridden regularly the small current drain has never been much concern for me.
 

Andrew Shadow

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If you aren't going to install an auxiliary fuse box, wire the charging port through an electronic micro-relay. It will switch on and off automatically with the ignition key. All automatic and nothing to interact with.
 

Ron

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If you aren't going to install an auxiliary fuse box, wire the charging port through an electronic micro-relay. It will switch on and off automatically with the ignition key. All automatic and nothing to interact with.
If you're only running 1 item, run it with a fused wire plugged into the back of the fuse block. It's powered on/off by turning the key on/off.
 

STRider

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Funny, we've been fielding similar questions in my household for the plethora of USB powered or charged devices we own.

A few tidbits of info. The Quick Charge standard is a Qualcomm product and explicitly works with the Snapdragon processor that's been exclusive to Samsung smartphones. Your benefit from chargers marked QC 1.0/2.0/3.0 may vary based on your device.

Next, the PD standard, or Power Delivery, is a newer standard, AND for high speed charging is exclusive to devices that use the new USB Type-C connector. As more devices adopt USB Type-C the advantages of PD increase.
"Overall, PD chargers are generally more powerful and versatile than QC chargers, but they may also be more expensive. QC chargers are designed for devices that use Qualcomm Snapdragon processors, while PD chargers are more flexible and can be used to charge a wider range of devices, including laptops and tablets."


I installed a lighter plug socket on the left fairing pocket of my ST1100 into which I plugged my devices... those started with a lighter plug power supply for my CB radio, then a Garmin Street Pilot III and progressed to other lighter plug powered devices. By the time I bought my ST1300 in 2020, times had changed. Nearly everything I might power from the cockpit of the bike now gets its juice via USB - my smartphone, my GoPro, battery packs for powering those things off the bike, etc... I installed a three port, QC 3.0 bulkhead power supply in the right fairing pocket; something very similar to what Alberto posted.

When I was still using my RAM Quick-Grip cell phone holder I also used an SAE-to-USB device like Will posted. It worked great, until vibration killed the camera in my Samsung S21 Ultra phone, so I switched to the Quad-lock with the vibration damper and its wireless charger. Both work great at charging/powering devices.

If I were to make a couple suggestions... Choose devices which explicitly specify GaN (gallium nitride) technology. GaN is a much more compact and efficient technology than the pure silicon devices it displaces. They draw less power than what they deliver compared to silicon. They can deliver higher wattage output to the devices which means they can - charge larger devices like a laptop, game console or tablet AND/OR charge them faster. They're also much smaller and produce less heat. IT IS THE FUTURE.


Switch to devices that use USB Type-C interface where possible. Type-C will be the de facto, no make that, it is the official standard now, and will be for many years to come. The current specifications for both power delivery and data transfer gives the Ultra High Speed / USB Type-C standard legs for years to come. If the EU can bully Apple into replacing the Lightning cable with it, then you know it's got something.

USB Type-A interfaces will be around for a while, but its light is fading fast. It will be essential to support devices needing USB mini-B (Garmin zumo XT), older phones and devices based on USB micro-B (my Sena 10S communicator) and many of my battery banks and miscellaneous devices from the past ten or more years. So I would definitely recommend selecting a device which has both Type-A and C connections.
 

Willsmotorcycle

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Not to hijack this, but completely related… @STRider Tom, how did you hook up the quad lock charger? I had used a converter and it looks like water or just condensation has rusted the USB port. It was double waterproof taped…
IMG_6303.jpegIMG_6302.jpeg

I jumped it to make sure it’s still working, thankfully it is.
IMG_6304.jpeg
 

STRider

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Bummer Will. I went full Quad Lock products when I converted to using their vibration damper. Bought their 'Quad Lock® Waterproof 12V to USB Smart Adaptor' along with their wireless charging head.

I considered *exactly* what you did and decided to go with the Quad Lock power supply to avoid *exactly* what you're dealing with now. Conventional USB connectors are not water/weatherproof in any way, shape or form. The Quad Lock USB connectors appear specifically designed for this application and have weather seals incorporated into the male and female ends of each connector.

If I went your way I knew I'd have to rig some heat shrink tubing, weather seal arrangement, but decided to let someone else do it for me.

I connected it directly to the battery - will tidy up this coming season with a power panel yet to be selected - and placed the module between the frame rails beneath the rider's saddle.

I was also interested in the automatic switching it's claimed to do, so it doesn't drain the battery with vampire current draw. Before the Quad Lock I used an SAE to USB dongle very similar to your Battery Tender version. It drained the battery if left on... mine has an on/off switch so to avoid killing the battery I had to turn it on or off with every ride. The Quad Lock does this automatically.

I just visited the Quad Lock website and they now offer a wireless charging head that connects directly to the bike's 12V power, rather than via a 5V USB connection. Still not cheap at $74.99 USD, BUT, you only need that part. Another USB power source, like the Waterproof 12V to USB Smart Adaptor at $39.99 USD, isn't required.

I'd take that route were I to do this again.
 

Willsmotorcycle

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Bummer Will. I went full Quad Lock products when I converted to using their vibration damper. Bought their 'Quad Lock® Waterproof 12V to USB Smart Adaptor' along with their wireless charging head.

I considered *exactly* what you did and decided to go with the Quad Lock power supply to avoid *exactly* what you're dealing with now. Conventional USB connectors are not water/weatherproof in any way, shape or form. The Quad Lock USB connectors appear specifically designed for this application and have weather seals incorporated into the male and female ends of each connector.

If I went your way I knew I'd have to rig some heat shrink tubing, weather seal arrangement, but decided to let someone else do it for me.

I connected it directly to the battery - will tidy up this coming season with a power panel yet to be selected - and placed the module between the frame rails beneath the rider's saddle.

I was also interested in the automatic switching it's claimed to do, so it doesn't drain the battery with vampire current draw. Before the Quad Lock I used an SAE to USB dongle very similar to your Battery Tender version. It drained the battery if left on... mine has an on/off switch so to avoid killing the battery I had to turn it on or off with every ride. The Quad Lock does this automatically.

I just visited the Quad Lock website and they now offer a wireless charging head that connects directly to the bike's 12V power, rather than via a 5V USB connection. Still not cheap at $74.99 USD, BUT, you only need that part. Another USB power source, like the Waterproof 12V to USB Smart Adaptor at $39.99 USD, isn't required.

I'd take that route were I to do this again.
Thank you Tom, I knew you would point me in the right direction. I certainly would be going with the heat shrink on this go around, but you solved the issue way easier... new hard wire it is. I am wired to the Quartet harness with the ignition, no drain. Their other option had me wondering where to put all that kit, I prefer this one wire solution, thanks again. :yr1:
 

STRider

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Thank you Tom, I knew you would point me in the right direction. I certainly would be going with the heat shrink on this go around, but you solved the issue way easier... new hard wire it is. I am wired to the Quartet harness with the ignition, no drain. Their other option had me wondering where to put all that kit, I prefer this one wire solution, thanks again. :yr1:
You're welcome, Will.

These days l'm too old and well paid to build a half-assed solution to something I can buy ready made.

I mean, I built speakers into my first street helmet, an IntegralNava2, when no such thing existed. I drilled a hole in the lower edge of the helmet on left side and installed a 3.5mm female stereo jack, then made a 3.5mm male-to-male stereo cord with a right angle adapter built in to attach to my then brand new Sony Walkman cassette player! It was the ballz!
 
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Thanks for write-up! Here's various USB-A/B and USB-C PD-PowerDelivery 1.0/2.0/3.0/3.1 charging standards. Came up somewhere when someone asked if they could just get USB to USB-C cable and take advantage of higher-power charging. But no, can only get power up to capacity limit of charger/brick you've got at beginning of chain. So if you've got USB-3.1/BC1.2 charger, even with USB-C cable, you're limited to 5v/1.5a (7.5w) maximum power.

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Switch to devices that use USB Type-C interface where possible. Type-C will be the de facto, no make that, it is the official standard now, and will be for many years to come. The current specifications for both power delivery and data transfer gives the Ultra High Speed / USB Type-C standard legs for years to come. If the EU can bully Apple into replacing the Lightning cable with it, then you know it's got something.
That's what happens when you've got government of the people, by the people and for the people!!! Unlike in U.S. where corporations have governments on their payroll. Recall when Nokia and Ericcson collaborated on new GSM standard and rolled it out all across Europe in a year! Meanwhile, Qualcomm and Motorola greedily fought for over decades, spending billions and billions in court for victory over whose high-speed standard would be monopoly. By time Qualcomm finally won, both their standards were obsolete anyway. :eek:
 

STRider

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That's what happens when you've got government of the people, by the people and for the people!!! Unlike in U.S. where corporations have governments on their payroll. Recall when Nokia and Ericcson collaborated on new GSM standard and rolled it out all across Europe in a year! Meanwhile, Qualcomm and Motorola greedily fought for over decades, spending billions and billions in court for victory over whose high-speed standard would be monopoly. By time Qualcomm finally won, both their standards were obsolete anyway. :eek:
Yup... Don't get me started!

Beta vs. VHS
HD-DVD vs Blu-Ray
Ford vs Chevy
Star Trek vs Star Wars..!!!


But seriously, once a product or service become commodities we need to embrace, if not standardization, at least interoperability/compatibility with minimal friction.

And it's hard, particularly for high tech. Nuances in design can be deal breakers... I mean why couldn't HD-DVD and Blu-Ray work in a single player? They look the same. Yeah, they do, until you look closer and there ain't no way they can.

I never drank the Cupertino Kool-Aid ('Apple' to those around the globe), but the Lightning port connector still seems more mechanically robust on the surface. Just a simple little tab with contacts on each side with a corresponding receptacle in the device. USB Type-C, though worlds better than micro-B, puts the hollow in the cord's connector and the device receptacle has a fin with contacts on it in the middle of it. Yeah, it's recessed, but it's still more at risk of damage than the corresponding Lightning port pieces.

But an example that comes to mind where this seems to work is the GoPro accessory eco-system. I admit I don't know enough about who invented, now owns and how its IP is managed, but it does appear that the interlocking GoPro camera mounting system just took over as the de facto standard for every product operating in the action camera space. Was this intentional? Did GoPro just figure these accessories drove camera sales and this was good? Do they license it? (and the Chinese just blatantly disregard?) Did they mess up and fail to protect it?

Anyway, I like the times we're in. I don't miss awkward cables with giant connectors which may or may not work. I embrace the ease of delivering power to small energy efficient devices, like mobile phones with their own built in battery that just needs its charge level maintained. And which lets me listen to music, or audio books, take a phone call or chat with my riding buddy via a wireless connection to a lightweight, high performance headset built directly into my helmet. All they ask are to be connected to a charger as needed.

<Whoa! I just felt like I was channeling Kevin Cameron for a moment!>
 
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