Issue with Audiovox holding speed

[Gus1300]

Have recently run into an issue with my otherwise normal performing Audiovox CC. When setting the initial 'hold' speed with the throttle engaged (ie holding desired speed), it would always taper off before speeding back up to the set speed. Lately I have been releasing the throttle from a faster than desired speed and hitting the set button; positive immediate pull to desired speed.

But now it seems the unit is 'losing' the setting because regardless of how it is engaged using either of the two previous techniques, the motor does a slow reduction of speed until it starts lugging (due to set point reference I suspect, not due to engine speed vs gear) until it drops off completely and the bike returns to idle. Fix for this has been to either cancel and resume, which seems to work best, or cycle power and retry, which doesn't always help.

I don't suspect a vacuum leak because sometimes, like this morning, it works just fine. That seems to be in the higher RPM range (4k-4500 to hold above 70 indicated) vs slower; can't seem to get it to engage at all at lower RPM anymore but it used to do that just fine when newly installed as well.

I do not have a vacuum canister installed; made one but never put it on and didn't have any problems until now so don't suspect that either, but am willing to try it if it'll help. Just haven't gotten under the airbox since I put it in; will replace those nasty air horn/nozzle screws when I do per the thread on this site.

Sometimes it doesn't 'like' going downhill and will slow down/speed up repeatedly until it gets into the lower portion of the control window and starts to lug/loses the setting completely again, similar to above. Other times, like this morning, it hums right along uphill or down, never wavering more than about 200 RPM from the set speed.

I have reviewed the rebuild thread on the site and have considered that as a possible cause (dirt or functioning of the valves on the vacuum container?) but haven't yet taken the plunge to pull that particular item for inspection.

Any thoughts/ideas as to what might be going on here would be greatly appreciated!

Thx in advance.
Gus

 

[GitSum]

What do you have the "Sensitivity" set at? (#4 and #5). Mine acted like that originally - I would set it and then let go off the throttle to see if it would hold - and it would gradually slow a bit. I increased the sensitivity and now it is more aggressive - I no longer have to wonder if it set or not

You may consider going up a setting and see if things improve

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

Try a new check valve, they're cheap.

 

[Gus1300]

I will look at the sensitivity...didn't even know there was a setting (the instructions were probably lost somewhere in the move from FL to NV), any more info on the particular switch positions of #4 and #5 for the various settings to determine what I'm on vs what I might want? Also, if the check valve is in reference to the reservoir, it's still on the bench; valve works fine, hasn't been installed. If it's a valve on the pull cyclinder, that's a different story.

Additional data point - set at 4K and just under 75 indicated this morning...worked fine right up until the biggest downhill of the ride to work, then didn't slow to lug but did have about a 5 mph drop off as it cycled to not overspeed and maintain a setting. No kick off and resume required, just a little patience.

Thanks for the input...will look into it and close out the thread with the result.

Gus

 

[GitSum]

I have attached the manual. Go to page 5 and look at the sensitivity settings. #4 and #5 are the switches for sensitivity. Look what you currently have, Low, Medium or High and try going up one and see if it helps

 

[Gus1300]

Thanks for the copy of the manual. Not looking forward to getting at the canister though. IIRC that would involve disconnecting the working end at the throttle bodies again, at least in my setup. Pretty sure the way I snaked it in there, I hadn't considered being able to pull it out in the 'toward' engine direction vs back the way it went in. I may be able to get to the connector or do it by feel without disconnecting it, if not I will just have to live with it for a while and see what pans out.

A glance at the manual reveals the statement, 'make sure all wiring is at least 1 ft away from all electromagnetic sources'...wonder if that could have some influence. In any case, thanks for the hints.

 

[dohboy]

I just went through trouble shooting my CC-100 and reviewed the the entire set up. My problem was a bad power line to the servo and now CC-100 is working fine. Back to your problem, I have dip switchs 1, 4, & 7 on. I have a vaccum canister and check valve installed. The vacuum from the engine supplies the power to adjust throttle position controled by the electronics. If it operates ok sometime what is different when it dosen't operate properly. It sounds to me like the servo is your problem or as you have heard the valves in the servo. I would install a vacuum canister and check valve first. You shouldn't need to go back into the air box, just cut into the vacuum line and add the canister and check valve.

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

I would install a vacuum canister and check valve first. You shouldn't need to go back into the air box, just cut into the vacuum line and add the canister and check valve.

+1 IMHO you need more vacuum. I assumed you had a canister. Check valve upstream of the servo and T in the canister/reservoir any place inline after the valve.

 

[Gus1300]

Thx for the added info Dohboy and John. Looks like 1/4/7 corresponds to GitSum's picture above; I suspect those are my installed settings as well. I truly don't suspect not having the reservoir/check valve is an issue as it operated w/o fault without them from installation in '07 up until displaying the recent symptoms. Again, sometimes after engaged (like tonight) it will hold speed and not 'drop' the setting (usually happens downhill but sometimes doesn't matter; once it starts, it won't even hold again even after power cycle off/on and reselecting set speed). Tonight it ran fine, 4K RPM, 75 hold speed, varied only about 4-5 mph downhill but didn't drop completely off for 45 mins of riding time. I don't get the same slow speed performance as when first installed; I think the manual says anything 35mph or greater should hold.

When it's exhibiting the problem symptoms, it will decrease speed until kicked off with a quick front brake hit and reengaged, picks right up again (option 1) or continues to try to hold and tapers off, never to return to a solid hold point (option 2). My thoughts are focused on the servos mounted on the canister vs the aggressiveness of the hold point (hard/soft ride switches) or reservoir/check valve or even leak in the line, since it works sometimes and not others. Not sure what sealing properties the servos have or if they are just tempermental sometimes based on environmentals but suspect that's the problem, or it's software related, in which case I'm probably SOL anyway. Servo power line could be a place to start before taking the entire canister out to check the valve operation and sealing ability. Don't have a chance to get into it quite yet but hopefully will be able to soon when I pull plastic again for the battery/front forks/tire, valve clearance measurement, etc.

The reservoir I have on the bench that I never put in has the valve directly in one end, so it'll all go in at one time if I decide to put it in; again, don't think it being missing is the cause of this behavior. And I also am pretty sure having it doesn't mean a stronger pull, just more available in reserve should the primary pull taper off. In either case, if the servo valve opens, the vacuum is let go from the canister via alternate pathway, or is that not correct in thinking about how the thing operates?

Appreciate all the ideas though, good to have specifics on what to look for during the search!

 

[Gus1300]

Just finished up the fork upgrade and looked at the switch settings while I had the plastic off. Changed sw 4 to off (medium sensitivity) and buttoned everything back up with no other changes. VERY noticeable improvement of initialization and speed maintenance at this setting vs the previous (low sensitivity). Never thought it was an issue with having enough vacuum as it would hold for a long time and then 'let go' when going downhill due to the backdriven drivetrain, or so I suspect. In any case, that issue is gone. It now stays wired on whatever setting I choose, as long as there is sufficient vacuum to hold (sometimes an issue at lower speeds). Not an operational issue for me as I seldom use it at city speeds or in traffic but it sure locks in at hwy speed, up hill or down. Again, highly recommend this mod if you're tired of dealing with changing speeds (ie throttle lock) or just want something in addition. I still have the PO installed throttle lock and it's handy for slower speeds where I just need to adjust a glove or visor or whatnot. The cruise will initially try to hold as low as 35 mph but I suspect at that RPM there isn't enough vacuum (checkvalve and canister might fix that, don't know; they're still on the bench) but then it lets go. Again, not an issue for the type of usage in my case, YMMV. Thx to all the helpful suggestions and comments!