Left handlebar control adjustment

[alanm123]

I've had this 2017 ST1300PA for 6 weeks now, and I just noticed that the left handlebar controls are about 1/2 inch away from where (I think) they should be:








I'd like to move it to the correct position.
To do so, it looks like I need to loosen the underlying bracket:



After removing the two screws holding the housing together, I can just barely pull the top plastic up (the part with the high-beam switch). Is there a secret for getting to the inner bracket without damage? The internal wiring doesn't give me enough play to expose what I assume I need to get to. I think "pulling harder" is probably not the answer, but I'll wait to hear what others think..

Maybe I'm missing something simple?

 

[dduelin]

I think the switch pod is indexed (fixed in position) by a pin that fits in a hole in the handlebar. The pin sticks up from the bottom piece of the bracket. I could be wrong but that’s my recollection.

 

[Igofar]

The plastic switch housings have a small plastic dowel that fits into a hole on the handlebars, this is why you can’t just start rotating stuff around. If you force it and break this fragile little piece, your instrument housing Will need to be replaced.
This is one of the reason Honda put alignment punch marks on things.

 

[jfheath]

It opens like a clam, if I remember correctly - the wires between top and bottom preventing it from opening on one side.

 

[Paul]

Aren't the police handlebars 1 inch wider to accept the RH switch assy? If you move the left side switches, you might find your thumb is too short.

 

[NVDucati]

I have a '06 Police bike and have that exact same space. But the grips are symmetrical. I use that space to clamp an auxiliary dodah.

 

[Willsmotorcycle]

Flush that clutch fluid. The bars are indeed 1/2" wider on the "P" model.

 

[alanm123]

Thanks all. I imagine that IF I had gotten the cover off, I'd have seen that pin/lock and realized the bracket was not to be moved.
Or I might have sawed a half-inch off the left handlebar. I might still. (kidding)

Total elapsed time: ~2 hours. I love this site.

 

[Larry Fine]

I suggest moving the clutch camp to the left.

 

[SMSW]

Thanks all. I imagine that IF I had gotten the cover off, I'd have seen that pin/lock and realized the bracket was not to be moved.
Or I might have sawed a half-inch off the left handlebar. I might still. (kidding)

Total elapsed time: ~2 hours. I love this site.

As @Willsmotorcycle noted, the clutch fluid window should show water clear fluid, not an orange or yellowish tint. If your picture is showing a colored window because of lighting or a reflection, then this observation is irrelevant. However, your bike is 5 years old and the juice should be flushed every 2 years, so go ahead and do it for giggles. Too many of us let routine maintenance items slide and face expensive repairs later. While you are at it, do the brake system too.

Article [13] - ST1300 - Brake Bleed Procedure [VIDEO] | ST1300 Articles

I made a short video that may help anyone out trying to bleed the brake system. Hope this is helpful. search youtube "st1300a brake bleeding". I made a short one.. about 50 seconds and a long one... about 9 minutes (sorry).

www.st-owners.com

Go to articles at the top of this page, there are other 1300 brake articles you should read.

 

[Gus1300]

I've had this 'optical illusion' as well because the round part of the bar is longer on the right handle than on the left. That makes it appear as if the left grip is too far outward when in fact, if you were to measure them, they're the same distance from the centerline. I just checked mine, the outer ends of the grips are the same distance from the ignition and the right 'round' is 2.25" while the left is just under 2" making them about 3/8" to 1/2" different. This is because my left switch housing is wider than the right; however, it appears on the PA (yours) the right is wider than the left which, to me, is why there's a necessary larger gap between the left inner grip surface and the clamp. Maybe that's what's making it appear that it's placed further outward? Trust the pinned locations.

 

[alanm123]

@SMSW:
Agreed. It's not the lighting -- the fluid is definitely discolored. I've been going over the document you mention and several others, including a few detailed explanations by jfheath, who has done quite a bit to determine the best approach to bleeding brakes/clutch.

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/st1300-maintenance-getting-all-the-air-out-of-the-brake-system.156754/
https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/st1300-maintenance-brakes-avoiding-the-pitfalls.135125/

But the main thing is to just do it.

I was planning to submerge the entire bike in a vat of dot4 with all the bleed valves open and just swish it around a bit, but the required winch system turned out to be too complicated. So I think I'm going with the above recommendations instead.

By the way, one brake-bleed tip I saw recently was to gently clamp the brake line just below the reservoir(s) creating a one-way valve. Then you can squeeze and release the brake lever many times in succession without dealing with the bleed valve until it's time to refill the reservoir. Looked like it would make it easier to get a good quick flow of fluid for dislodging bubbles. I don't know about the rest of the video, but that one idea seemed useful -- although I would have put more protection around the pliers jaws, myself.

 

[alanm123]

... I just checked mine, the outer ends of the grips are the same distance from the ignition and the right 'round' is 2.25" while the left is just under 2" making them about 3/8" to 1/2" different....

Many thanks for checking that. I'll verify the distances on mine but I'm sure you're right.

 

[alanm123]

It opens like a clam, if I remember correctly - the wires between top and bottom preventing it from opening on one side.

Yes -- I'm just surprised how tight the wires are. On mine, the wires pull quite hard long before the clam is open half an inch. I don't have to open it now, knowing that current placement is correct, but if I need to get in there one day -- to clean a contact, say -- it's going to be interesting. BTW, thank you for all the research you've done AND made available! I raise a Leinenkugel Summer Shandy to you!

 

[alanm123]

the round part of the bar is longer on the right handle than on the left

Oh yes, I see it now. Wasn't sure what you were referring to earlier.

I suggest moving the clutch camp to the left.

That does suggest the clutch res should be moved over more. Thanks. I'll need to remove the HeliBars first. The clutch line was never lengthened. (And I'd like to remove the HeliBars anyway.)

 

[Paul]

If you remove the Helibars, the Police switch on the right might hit the tank. I think that is why the bike came with risers from Honda.

 

[alanm123]

If you remove the Helibars, the Police switch on the right might hit the tank.

Hmm. Could be. I'll have to do look into it "further." (That is, at all.) The RonAyers page does, however, show a thinner connector between the head tree and the handle bars. See item #14 here. And that page is specifically for the police bike. Still, definitely worth a triple-check. Thanks.

 

[Paul]

That is the standard handlebar base plate for all models. The PA in addition came with risers, items 16 and 18 in this fiche.

2013 Honda ST1300PA AC HANDLEBAR / TOP BRIDGE | Ron Ayers

Shop online for OEM HANDLEBAR / TOP BRIDGE parts that fit your 2013 Honda ST1300PA AC, search all our OEM Parts or call at 252-758-3084

www.ronayers.com

The Helibar riser plate replaces the factory handlebar mount base.

 

[alanm123]

items 16 and 18 in this fiche

I see. I didn't even notice those when I was staring at the parts diagram. So.... yes, just removing the Helis is not an option. I'd definitely need those missing parts. Until then, I think the clutch reservoir must stay where it is.
Thanks.

 

[alanm123]

The Helibar riser plate replaces the factory handlebar mount base.

Paul, I found an item on ebay that may fit the bill for $200 (instead of the $500 at Ayers).

GENUINE HONDA OEM HANDLEBAR RISER 1" LIFT FOR ST1300 2003 - 2018 | eBay

This is the OEM part taken from a new police bike model.

www.ebay.com

Says it's the OEM riser. It should keep the height, but move the bars more toward the front of the bike (which is what I want). Please let me know if you think this is NOT the correct item.