The factory installed bolts have a threadlocker installed but the manual says nothing about its use when reinstalling. I've also read about using anti-seize. What's the best practice? I'm inclined to use some red Loctite.
Loctite on Caliper bolts?
- Thread starter Bruski
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I use blue, 'tis up to you.. (rhyme)
You will be glad you asked. Use blue Loctite. Put the loctite on the threads of the bracket on the lower left bolt, or you may lock up the hinge mechanism. DAMHIK
I've never used Loctite on the caliper bolts on any bike I've ever owned in over 400k miles of riding. Red loctite is the one that is considered permanent and requires a lot of torque and/or heat to remove, so that would seem like total overkill. Blue is probably the better choice if you use any at all.
I pretty much never Loctite anything, and anti-seize everything.
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Blue but I don't use any.
OP
OP
I'll do blue. Thanks
just so you don't turn red.
Loctite Blue aka Medium Strength.
Honda Red aka Medium Strength.
Medium as in removeable which is a good thing.
Not Honda Blue or you'll turn red and get the blues.
Loctite Blue aka Medium Strength.
Honda Red aka Medium Strength.
Medium as in removeable which is a good thing.
Not Honda Blue or you'll turn red and get the blues.
Boo-hoo, I'm now blue too.
Have never used new bolts or LockTite on the caliper bolts.
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The service manual does indicate to replace the bolts each time they are removed. I don't do that but I do replace them after a few times. LocTite blue unless a new bolt is fitted.
I just noticed this is the ST1300 forum, not ST1100, so things must have changed over the years. There is no mention in the ST1100 factory manual regarding using thread locking compound on the caliper bolts. It is recommended for a couple of the threaded rods that make up the calipers themselves, but not the bolts that mount them to the forks.
It is my belief that they recommend new bolts each time, not because of metal fatigue of the bolt, but because they can sell another fastener, and because they come with locktight already on the bolt.
.02
.02
.02 Honda specifies replacement for a couple of reasons including the legal dept.
They are torqued higher than a normal bolt of that size partly to the preapplied thread loc compound and partly because a higher torque provides a higher clamping force and stronger joint, a good thing if it's holding your brakes on and good for bolt reliability.
Bad things happen if the clamp force is over come by braking forces and the bolt sees that load. The flip side is it's closer to the bolts yeild strength thefore effects fatigue life and doesn't tolerate removal and retorque as much. Apply Loctite Or Crash ?
After you take it out clean off the smooshed aloc mystery material and apply loctite to the threads the bolts spins easier so torque applies a little more tension to the used bolt.
It's a good idea to follow the book and replace them as specified, I don't every time but I do inspect them.
They do yeild and may not be obvious until they loose clamp force then see tension under braking and let go.
If it feels funny torquing them like it's not tightening fast enough as you turn the wrench don't ignore it.
Check post 1 and 11 here LINK
They are torqued higher than a normal bolt of that size partly to the preapplied thread loc compound and partly because a higher torque provides a higher clamping force and stronger joint, a good thing if it's holding your brakes on and good for bolt reliability.
Bad things happen if the clamp force is over come by braking forces and the bolt sees that load. The flip side is it's closer to the bolts yeild strength thefore effects fatigue life and doesn't tolerate removal and retorque as much. Apply Loctite Or Crash ?
After you take it out clean off the smooshed aloc mystery material and apply loctite to the threads the bolts spins easier so torque applies a little more tension to the used bolt.
It's a good idea to follow the book and replace them as specified, I don't every time but I do inspect them.
They do yeild and may not be obvious until they loose clamp force then see tension under braking and let go.
If it feels funny torquing them like it's not tightening fast enough as you turn the wrench don't ignore it.
Check post 1 and 11 here LINK
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Just curious, what is the torque spec and size of that bolt?
On the ST1100 its 27Nm (20 ft-lb) on an 8mm bolt, which is not unusually high for that size bolt. Not sure what grade bolts they used, but if they really needed higher torque on the ST1300 (no idea why) they could have spec'd a higher tensile strength bolt.
I suspect there was probably a legal issue with a defective/marginal bolt sometime in the past and so this was the CYA response from Honda.
I've had the calipers off my ST and other bikes before it at least a dozen times (each bike, not total), no Loctite or bolt replacement ever (neither is mentioned in the Honda manual for the 1100). It doesn't hurt to be cautious, but this sounds like a bunch of BS to me.
Post 11 of the link mentions it.
23lb-ft
23lb-ft
OK, I read the link from a few posts ago and now I see what has changed. Apparently Honda chose to fit a bolt to the 1300 calipers that stretches upon use, so that's the reason for needing to replace it each time, sheesh. Nothing like making something overly complicated when a much simpler solution exists, Honda is famous for that.
FWIW, recommended torque values are all over the map on these kinds of things, but one torque guide I found with a quick search shows the following values (see attachment):
notice a grade 12.9 allen head can go as high as 47Nm dry and 37Nm lubricated, so its not like Honda was pushing the technology envelope with this application.
FWIW, recommended torque values are all over the map on these kinds of things, but one torque guide I found with a quick search shows the following values (see attachment):
notice a grade 12.9 allen head can go as high as 47Nm dry and 37Nm lubricated, so its not like Honda was pushing the technology envelope with this application.
I would not use a general torque chart. Honda specifies a torque for that specific application.
Having said that, I have yet to replace any bolts, use loctite or torqued (torue wrench) any fasteners on my 1100. The only fastener that has loosen was the philip headed screw on the plastic side panel.
Having said that, I have yet to replace any bolts, use loctite or torqued (torue wrench) any fasteners on my 1100. The only fastener that has loosen was the philip headed screw on the plastic side panel.