Lowering an ST1100.

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I have recently purchased an ST1100 and I would like to lower it about an inch. what would be the best way to do that?
 

Uncle Phil

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You could lower the triple tree on the front forks but that messes with the geometry of the bike and how it handles.
Then you would have to deal with what you could do at the back of the bike - not an easy solution.
 
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The best way is to lower both ends equally, once you're sure the rear is adjusted for best steering geometry first.
 
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I’m also vertically challenged, years ago I took he staples out of the back of my seat and with my 4 inch grinder and some sandpaper I re-shaped the foam before I restaple the seat I did a 500 mile weekend ride and I can’t tell you how happy my but was, plus I can put my feet down flat footed also , if you try this go slow remove a little at a time and keep checking how it feelsl on your you know what.
 
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david schwind
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Thankyou all for your replies. It has an aftermarket seat that is very comfortable so I hate to mess with that. I was wondering if there is a lowering spring for that mono shock. and raise the fork tubes an equal amount was a possibility. I don't want to upset the handling. it handles fantastic but with my 29" inseam I'm on my toes at a stop light.
 
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Suspension changes could turn into an expensive road to nowhere.
The Answer is under your butt David, get it remodelled, sorted.
The seat could actually be making it worse.
Upt'North.
 
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with my 29" inseam I'm on my toes at a stop light.
Ah . . . . now here's what you need to do then and it will take some practice, but make you a better rider. You need to learn to come to a stop with one foot down only - the left foot. You can still touch tippy toe to your right, should your balance go that way at the stop. With one foot down and your arse slid up to the shelter (false fuel tank), where the front of the seat is narrowest, you should be able to flat foot the left foot, while you keep your right foot on the rear brake.

That's how stopping is taught at any MSF course.
 
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I must use both feet when I stop, because neither leg (left especially) is strong enough to hold it leaned far enough to not wobble the other way, requiring me to put down the other foot anyway.

Fortunately, I'm tall enough to stand on both feet with my butt off the seat, even with the extra-tall RDL seat.
 
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Welcome aboard! And still riding at 80! My hat's off to you (but only because today was warm, I'll keep it on when it turns colder again). I have the same problem you do - my legs barely reach the ground. One of the guys here had his bike professionally lowered, so yes, it is possible - but I'd hazard a guess it is pretty expensive. I think he is now riding a K bike. Someone else here had his shoe repair guy sew another pair of soles on his boots, adding about 1". That solved his problem. Another member here has stopped as @Bush said - one leg down all the time. I fondly remember one particular off camber uphill stop - fondly because I was not crushed by the bike tipping over. I don't know if the "always lean over onto your left foot" technique would have helped there. Once it starts going over (or reaches a certain angle), unless you happen to be the Hulk, its going down.

I solved my problem with a Spencerized seat. Spencer is a guy, now retired, I think, who modified ST seats by removing up to 1" of foam. I tried a Russell RDL seat, the wings make reaching the ground a bit difficult. My bike came with a Sargent seat - wide, flat and hard and unusually comfortable for me, but the width pushed my legs outward to the point that balancing the bike at rest was an issue. One more point. Another short guy cut the foot pad off the center stand, welded in a 2 or 3" piece of steel pipe as an extenson, ground it smooth and never used it. I bought it, powder coated it, and put it on. Putting my bike up on the cs after that mod was much much easier. The extension did stick into the space that would be occupied by a passenger's foot, but I ride alone. That said, technique is all when putting the bike on the center stand - roll it backward, push down as you pull up and back....

Read this....
 
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You could lower the triple tree on the front forks but that messes with the geometry of the bike and how it handles.
Then you would have to deal with what you could do at the back of the bike - not an easy solution.
The good news of just lowering the triple tree is it improves the handling. Start easy with 1/2" first. Betcha like it.
 

Ron

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You like the seat the way it is. Maybe have a local upholstery/seat guy remove the cover and shave the sides of the front. Being more narrow makes it easier to stand when stopped. Shouldn't affect the seat part.

What size is the rear tire? Next time it needs changed, go with a 60 series tire instead of the 70 series stock size. It won't give you a lot but maybe enough.
 

Pop-Pop

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I have a 29" inseam and the Timberland Pro boots were a blessing. Oh! And welcome from Boston. Lots of experienced st people here. Bought my Corbin saddle here in the for sale section.
 
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I used a systems approach.

1. A lower profile rear tire.
2. A shorter rear shock. I used Works (now Worx), but Wilbers makes a shock that lowers 30mm.
3. I had a suspension shop lower the front to match. I think they cut some of the spacers. This is a good time for new fork seals and oil. You can't get enough lowering by raising the forks.
4. Buy a pair of Daytona M-Star boots.
5. Buy an extra kickstand and have it cut and rewelded.

It is a real PITA to do all of this but it will bake a tremendous difference in how you can handle the bike.
 
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david schwind
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I have a 29" inseam and the Timberland Pro boots were a blessing. Oh! And welcome from Boston. Lots of experienced st people here. Bought my Corbin saddle here in the for sale section.
Thankyou for your reply. My dad and I and another friend took a motorcycle trip from Michigan to the Cap back in 1983. My dad was 72 at the time and he got to ride on some of the roads he road on as a young man on his 4 Cyl Henderson. It was a fantastic Trip. Regards, Dave
 
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