Hi, guys just bought a1990 ST1100. Not owned a big tourer before so advice is welcome. I am only 5'3 163 tall and the bike at present is way too tall for me to sit even with original seat and still would be if I cut the seat down, which I don't want to do. I am getting the suspension professionally lowered as I can't even touch the ground with both feet down without teetering from side to side. How much height can safely be taken off?
lowering height of ST1100
- Thread starter Chris Symonds
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PM Woodchuck (Lyle). He lowered his ST and even had a RDL (I believe) on it. Consider that lowering it will cut into ground clearance during spirited riding on curves. If you take it easy, this will probably not be a problem. Talk to Lyle.
Lyle had a 1300
I have a similar problem, though less so. My inseam is 29" and with the Corbin seat that came on my 1100 I can tiptoe easily enough and might do even better once I get thicker soles on my boots. Right now the rear shock is set at its lowest (highest??) setting so the bike is as low as it will go. Haven't been able to get it up on the centre stand yet. Gonna try the 3/4" board technique next 
I looked thru Lyle's posts on the subject and it seems he was not happy with the result. General consensus seems to be that it's not a good idea.
Other info I have seen suggests that you can get about an inch or inch and a half from lowering. I decided that the $600USD ($800CDN), cost of a new shorter shock would come to a significant portion of the value of the bike. Gotta keep an eye on the resale value for when that really sweet ST1300 at a super price shows up.
I decided not to mess with the bike's geometry at all and go with thicker soles on the boots.
I looked thru Lyle's posts on the subject and it seems he was not happy with the result. General consensus seems to be that it's not a good idea.
Other info I have seen suggests that you can get about an inch or inch and a half from lowering. I decided that the $600USD ($800CDN), cost of a new shorter shock would come to a significant portion of the value of the bike. Gotta keep an eye on the resale value for when that really sweet ST1300 at a super price shows up.
I decided not to mess with the bike's geometry at all and go with thicker soles on the boots.
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This was my solution. It worked well for me.I used a lowered Works shock that lowered it an inch and 1/4, then switched to a 60 series tire. Works is out of business, and I don't know if their successor, Worx, sells a lower shock for the ST1100. A similar rear shock is sold by Wilbers. This shock lowers 30 mm or 1.18 inches. All told, I lowered the rear an inch and 3/4.
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shock absorber Type 640 Road - The basic edition of the Wilbers Adjustline mono shock absorber comes along with the same technology as the more complex versions. The difference is that here we leave owww.wilbers-shop.de
I took the bike to a suspension shop to lower the front. Remember that shortening the forks an inch only lowers it .8 or so due to the angle of the forks. The forks can be pushed up in the triple trees 3/4 inch, which gives you a little over a 1/2 inch lowering. I think he shortened the spacer that brought it the rest of the way. He fine tuned the height with the fork, because it was only up in the triple trees 1/4 inch. I kept the stock springs and changed the fork oil and seals.
It made a huge difference for me.
You will have to shorten the kickstand and center stand.
I ride like an old man not really going to swing off the side of the bike or go any more than the speed limit on the highway or town limits so scrapping the pegs wont be an issue
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Welcome to the forum from Cornwall UK! Have you tried adjusting your rear shock so the bike sits a little lower? It made a lot of difference to me when I first got my ST1100. I then had the seat customised as I found it a bit hard for long rides and it is a dream to be on now.
My wife is that height. When she has ridden with me it was a struggle for her to climb onto the back of the bike. She use to ride her own bike it was a lowered Harley softail. She could never ride my bike because her feet would not touch the ground even tippy toe. Be care with it. It is a little top heavy and in my opinion a challenge for shorter inseam riders.
Is that an "oxymoron", 5'3" tall?
I digress.
I'm with Ecca here, start with the seat. The original seat can get a little firm after a couple of hours and this can be remedied relatively cheaply. With good gel pads it'll be comfier even if considerably lower. I obviously have no idea about Australian seat upholsterers but a good one in the UK will make there own gel pads and cut and recover for about £250.00. Money well spent and you could be about 2" closer to the ground, maybe a little more.
I do believe you when you say the seat won't be enough but you can't just lower the rear shock. The forks will need raising through the clamps and your stands won't work. This is major work/expense and will fundamentally alter the bike.
Keep us posted.
Upt'North.
I digress.
I'm with Ecca here, start with the seat. The original seat can get a little firm after a couple of hours and this can be remedied relatively cheaply. With good gel pads it'll be comfier even if considerably lower. I obviously have no idea about Australian seat upholsterers but a good one in the UK will make there own gel pads and cut and recover for about £250.00. Money well spent and you could be about 2" closer to the ground, maybe a little more.
I do believe you when you say the seat won't be enough but you can't just lower the rear shock. The forks will need raising through the clamps and your stands won't work. This is major work/expense and will fundamentally alter the bike.
Keep us posted.
Upt'North.
This is ACM seats work in Australia, I think it could go a little lower still.
Okay 5'3 small. I am having it lowered professionally by a service that sets up racing bikes and dirt bikes. Yes, I'm aware that the side and centre stand will need adjusting. I'll let you know how it all goes.
Woodchuck
(Lyle)
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- 8617
Hi
looks like I need to correct some miss informed information.
I'm the same height as you, inseam of 27"
Yes I had a ST1300 2006
yes I had it lowered by doing some cleaver shock rebuilding ( not recommended)
yes the ground clearance is only an issue 2 up or in a higher weight classification.
I believe the 1100 seat height is 20-25mm higher then the 1300
I had a Corbin seat that is naturally dished out
So I have said before on other threads that I would start with a thicker soled boot (tactical) not a riding boot and maybe a extra insole
I put Race tech suspension on and returned the 1300 to OEM height, I added new springs for my weight class and for 2 up riding.
The ST1300 was turned into a new bike and never looked back.
DO NOT LOWER THE BIKE
I hope this helps
Lyle
WoodChuck, I might have to agree with you. On my wife's lowered Harley Softail I hated riding that thing. Every small road bump it would bottom out with a big clunk noise. If the road was rippled it felt like riding on a bucking bronco. Putting that thing on the jiffy stand was a chore. I'm curious did the OP ride this bike before purchasing it? Sometimes bikes won't fit. I know BMW has an online fitment chart. Some of those big GS's are too tall for me.
Woodchuck
(Lyle)
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OP ???
The k1600 seat is set at 27 1/2" just about perfect, I did lower it 1/2" for 1 trip to try and returner it back to OEM, I've been there done that. Fit the bike to your liking without lowering and changing the geometry.
Thanks for the kind words
L
The k1600 seat is set at 27 1/2" just about perfect, I did lower it 1/2" for 1 trip to try and returner it back to OEM, I've been there done that. Fit the bike to your liking without lowering and changing the geometry.
Thanks for the kind words
L
The problem with the ST's factory seat for most people is that it's too soft and you soon sitting on the pan. Corbin feels that the flex in the factory pan adds to the compressing of the factory cush. After an hour or two (depending on the riders own tushion) the seat's lack of support can become painfully apparent.
Adding more cush or firmer cush (to the bike's seat preferably) can fix that or at least improve it for most of us. So less but firmer cush could be the answer to a lower seat height.
Altering the bikes geometry shouldn't be done haphazardly but carefully. And it may not be the answer for everybody but done right it will certainly be an answer for somebody. If it doesn't work for one rider then 'don't do what I did' may be good advice. But 'don't lower it whatever you do' is probably not universally good advice.
Yeah lowering reduces ground clearance which may or may not be an issue. Given the ST's (or almost any Honda at least) weak (to my mind) suspension) the matching of suspension to the rider and task become much more important. This is an area where dotting i's and crossing t's also becomes very important. But if you're good with punctuation- why not.
Adding more cush or firmer cush (to the bike's seat preferably) can fix that or at least improve it for most of us. So less but firmer cush could be the answer to a lower seat height.
Altering the bikes geometry shouldn't be done haphazardly but carefully. And it may not be the answer for everybody but done right it will certainly be an answer for somebody. If it doesn't work for one rider then 'don't do what I did' may be good advice. But 'don't lower it whatever you do' is probably not universally good advice.
Yeah lowering reduces ground clearance which may or may not be an issue. Given the ST's (or almost any Honda at least) weak (to my mind) suspension) the matching of suspension to the rider and task become much more important. This is an area where dotting i's and crossing t's also becomes very important. But if you're good with punctuation- why not.