Lubricate clutch cable on 1993 st1100

[karuzo]

Hi there,
I’ve never maintained a bike, but am ready to venture into that, planned for that when I got this bike. Just got the bike couple of days ago, seems in great shape. Not until I was in traffic did I realize my arm is hurting from using the clutch a lot. Seemed stiff, so I researched and found that I might need to lube the cable, found videos on how to remove the clutch cable for lubing. Going to the service manual (see image), I see this whole assembly at the clutch pivot that I guess you need to disassemble? Unfortunately, I cannot find a video pertaining to an st1100. From the diagram in the service manual I can identify where the cable is supposed to come from, but it is not clear what it attaches to exactly. I assume I’m missing something here. Am I supposed to look somewhere else? Anyone know of actual video related to this bike? I don’t mind operating the clutch as is, but if it takes force to reportedly use the clutch in traffic, I assume it should be lubed. Can it be anyth7ng else other than needed lubing?
Thanks.

 

[Larry Fine]

It's a hydraulic clutch. There is no cable, only a hose. Nothing to lube.

 

[Ron]

ST1100 doesn't have a cable. Pictured above is the clutch hydraulic master cylinder. The hose, item 4, goes to the slave cylinder to operate the clutch. The manual will probably say to lubricate items, 12, 14, and 15.

 

[karuzo]

It's a hydraulic clutch. There is no cable, only a hose. Nothing to lube.

Thank you. Totally learned something new.

 

[karuzo]

ST1100 doesn't have a cable. Pictured above is the clutch hydraulic master cylinder. The hose, item 4, goes to the slave cylinder to operate the clutch. The manual will probably say to lubricate items, 12, 14, and 15.

I assume lubricating these will help ease the clutch? Or can there be something else to look at? Thanks.

 

[Ron]

Depending on it's condition, yes or no. Inspect item 14 for wear. The pull is easier than some and harder than others bikes.

There is a thread on using a smaller master cylinder and a larger slave cylinder to increase the hydraulic mechanical advantage. This gives an easier pull on the lever. I think the cost was about $200.

Clutch Master Cylinder Swap | ST1100 Related

There's lot's of traffic here on changing the piston diameter of the brake M/C to gain easier "two finger" braking with the general idea being that a smaller M/C diameter is better up to the point where the lever travel is too great and the lever reaches the bar. What of the same question for...

www.st-owners.com

 

[karuzo]

Depending on it's condition, yes or no. Inspect item 14 for wear. The pull is easier than some and harder than others bikes.

There is a thread on using a smaller master cylinder and a larger slave cylinder to increase the hydraulic mechanical advantage. This gives an easier pull on the lever. I think the cost was about $200.

Clutch Master Cylinder Swap | ST1100 Related

There's lot's of traffic here on changing the piston diameter of the brake M/C to gain easier "two finger" braking with the general idea being that a smaller M/C diameter is better up to the point where the lever travel is too great and the lever reaches the bar. What of the same question for...

www.st-owners.com

Thank you.

 

[Willsmotorcycle]

I cannot find a video pertaining to an st1100

Try searching with this: pan european 1100 clutch

 

[Bush]

The brass bushing Ron mentioned as part #14 develops a hole from the wear of the push rod against it and it does make the pull more difficult, depending on the amount of wear. Replace it if at all worn. A five minute job.

Next thing to look at is the brake fluid in all three master cylinders, through the wee sight glass and the opaque receptacle on the rear brake. If it is yellowed, or worse, brown, it needs replacing. Changing brake fluid takes some knowledge and skill, lest you screw it up and have no brakes, or worse yet, dangerous brakes.

 

[Upt' North]

A little grease on the parts mentioned can make a world of difference. The Bush that Bush mentions does wear if neglected. I seem to recall when you put the lever back on you need to be careful to locate it correctly.
If you're tempted to put any grease on the point the lever contacts the plunger, then just put the slightest smear of grease on there because of the proximity of rubber parts. It only needs a smear anyway and if you've got rubber grease you could use that at that point.
Do the above at the start of the riding season and you're good to go. It'll be worthwhile bleeding the clutch too but if you are new to this game then maybe one job at a time.
Good luck.
Upt.

 

[karuzo]

Try searching with this: pan european 1100 clutch

Thanks.

 

[Malks]

I've replaced the brass bushing twice and also needed to replace the clutch lever once in 190K km. While you're at it be sure to inspect the lever at the pivot point to make sure the hole has not developed an oval shape.

 

[Slydynbye]

The Standard Clutch lever is a LONG reach. Consider a VFR adjustable lever to reduce that reach.
Have you bled the clutch yet? A crusty clutch slave could cause issues.

 

[karuzo]

The Standard Clutch lever is a LONG reach. Consider a VFR adjustable lever to reduce that reach.
Have you bled the clutch yet? A crusty clutch slave could cause issues.

I have not. Maintaining a bike is new to me, venturing into.

 

[karuzo]

Depending on it's condition, yes or no. Inspect item 14 for wear. The pull is easier than some and harder than others bikes.

There is a thread on using a smaller master cylinder and a larger slave cylinder to increase the hydraulic mechanical advantage. This gives an easier pull on the lever. I think the cost was about $200.

Clutch Master Cylinder Swap | ST1100 Related

There's lot's of traffic here on changing the piston diameter of the brake M/C to gain easier "two finger" braking with the general idea being that a smaller M/C diameter is better up to the point where the lever travel is too great and the lever reaches the bar. What of the same question for...

www.st-owners.com

Btw, I normally don’t have an issue with pulling the clutch lever, just in traffic I felt the pain. Could it be the clutch lever pull is normal, any way of comparing it to anything? It does feel stiffer than my other bike though..,

 

[Ron]

If you decide to take the clutch lever off, remove the nut, #11, first. It is a lock nut. The screw, #12, screws into the reservoir below the lever.

 

[Bush]

I have not. Maintaining a bike is new to me, venturing into.

Well, you couldn't have bought an easier bike to learn to work on then. With some decent tools and the Honda Service Manual as your guide, there isn't much you couldn't do in time.

 

[ST1100Y]

Btw, I normally don’t have an issue with pulling the clutch lever, just in traffic I felt the pain. Could it be the clutch lever pull is normal, any way of comparing it to anything? It does feel stiffer than my other bike though..,

The hydraulic clutch of the ST is a tad on the heavy side (even I with big pawns use the 4 finger technique when maneuvering in tight spaces...)
When hopping on my GF's NT700VA I always almost stall it over not feeling anything on the lightweight, cable controlled clutch...
Back to the ST:
- thicker, aftermarket grips installed?
- condition of lever, bushing, push-rod (all clean, not worn, lubed)
- condition of MC
- condition of recevier
- proper flush

I've installed a pattern receiver made by Oberon, which indeed requires slightly less pressure...
Adjustable lever is another thing...

But this is pretty much it, installing lighter clutch springs will result in slipping...

 

[Malks]

If you decide to take the clutch lever off, remove the nut, #11, first. It is a lock nut. The screw, #12, screws into the reservoir below the lever.

In an odd coincidence just yesterday before a ride I noticed the screw #12 was sticking up a little higher than it should. Upon further investigation I confirmed the nut was missing from the bottom side. No idea how long it had been like that. Fortunately I had a replacement handy and off I went for a ride.

 

[Sunday Rider]

Btw, I normally don’t have an issue with pulling the clutch lever, just in traffic I felt the pain. Could it be the clutch lever pull is normal, any way of comparing it to anything? It does feel stiffer than my other bike though..,

That is the first thing I noticed when I got the ST1100, coming from a cable clutch before. It was in stop and go traffic, as you found out too, is where it became obvious but after a while you get used to it. I’ve changed the parts mentioned above by others and it didn’t make any difference. I haven’t rebuilt the Master Cylinder (MC),although have drained it and cleaned it out followed by bleeding. I have not rebuilt the Slave Cylinder yet (found on the clutch housing in the front of the engine). That might help. Riding season is short and winter maintenance gets out off and before you know it, riding season is here!
The only thing I did or knew at the beginning was changing the oil. As my confidence grew with the help of this site and sister site ST-Riders I tackled way more difficult tasks, than I thought possible. Still have lots to learn too.
So hang in, search and ask lots, and you will be fine.
Welcome to the site.