Found my rear turn signal wires chewed through this spring once I rolled the ST out of the shed, from winter storage,haven't been able to repair because of other commitments but planned to get her out tomorrow.Battery was low last week so put on charger and totally dead when I turned key today.(No dash lights,HL,fuel pump)Took off seat and yup,a mouse set up shop in there(I usually remove the seat if it's gonna sit more than a few days,they like dark and quiet).Put bat on charger for a few hours and still nothing,no lights,dash or otherwise,no fuel pump.I'm assuming the mouse chewed through a wire that it preventing power from going through and to ignition...I have manuals and will take a look when I get a chance,may be weeks but where should I start from those symptoms?...Thanks!
Mice Damage! Tracing down no power...
- Thread starter mznyc
- Start date
Gus1300
Site Supporter
Are you charging the battery while still installed with a pigtail, or removed and knowingly connected to the charger? I'd first verify charger output voltage is correct and reaching the battery (if still installed on the bike). It sounds like either the charger didn't reach the battery or the battery didn't take the charge if properly connected. Have to start there and like mentioned above, once established, move down the circuit checking each connection point and piece of equipment one at a time for continuity.
Charger is good,batt is showing 13v after sitting overnight on charger,was showing 12+v when I tried last night which had not lights or power whatsoever,like I said I have OEM and other manuals with schematics but don't have them with me and may not be able to peel off plastic for a week or two,just trying to get a general sense of what circuts would take out all power/lights,there's proably only a few that would do that...Thanks!
Removed,confirmed connection to charger
If battery is good with no load, what's its voltage after you turn the ignition on? The battery may not be able to drive any load. Or is the 12+v reference with the ignition on??
Also, if you have schematics and know how to trace out circuits, why speculate on something before you start the job, wait until you're ready to trace it out, and then just do it. Its not all that complicated a system, once you start looking at the schematics it will become clear where to trace first.
here's a color coded wiring diagram, its a little better visually than the black/white diagrams in the service manual
Also, if you have schematics and know how to trace out circuits, why speculate on something before you start the job, wait until you're ready to trace it out, and then just do it. Its not all that complicated a system, once you start looking at the schematics it will become clear where to trace first.
here's a color coded wiring diagram, its a little better visually than the black/white diagrams in the service manual
Last edited:
Got a chance to take a look today and found no wires chewed through but I only removed rear cowling and airbox cover to see the connectors in front of airbox and rear of the ignition.No dash lights,lights,no fuel pump,batt is showing 12.7,v,no change when hitting start button.No continuity at ignition fuse with key on but assuming there should be when hitting start button but didnt have a third hand so I have to get some alligator clips from the garage which is not where the bike is.Still believe a wire is chewed that would prevent all power coming from battery to fusebox or CDI.Not too elec system saavy,replaced the 28amp myself and do all my own maintenance but rarely have to delve in to electrics with Hondas,one of the reasons I love them.This bike has been flawless other than the weak alt replaced at 80K....
OK,think I resolved this.Mice chewed through side stand switch a few years ago and I did a crimp temporary fix and never got around to replacing OEM connectors,finally one let loose.After looking at schematics it appears that,HL, dash lights and fuel pump do go through that circuit.(Don't see the need for that).So no lights or pump when broken.Killed battery by accidently leaving key on for a few days because lights were out,probably beyound repair,new one on order.Thanks for the help....
Al you may have missed my last post,I beleive I'm sorted,new battery coming this week and will confirm when I get it.,...."with a test light follow the B+ to the ignition switch",..not really sure what that is,or where I'm probing,could you explain?...
B+ is battery power , most systems whether car or bike are the same. Battery power goes to switch (ignition) turn the switch on now b+ should come out the other side of the switch which should go to fuse box and relays. With a test light clamp it to the neg side of the battery turn the key on and see if the fuses all have power. If the do the switch is ok . Now we know if you have power. Next we need a ground. There is also a ground wire some where that has been of concern on 1300s' which could cause all of the above. There are a lot of ground wires behind the headlight on the frame that would need to be checked.
Gus1300
Site Supporter
You might also try recharging the battery anyway...if it hasn't been fully discharged too long, it may recover. If nothing else, it could be a spare if needed sometime...if it came back to life, that is.
I put ultra sonic devices in my vehicles near the engine, keeps them away.
They work like a dinner bell around here
I have pretty good insurance here. My cat loves the taste of mousemeat ! He watches the ST like a hawk ….
Well New York....
nothing stops NY rats short of a nuke
nothing stops NY rats short of a nuke
They work like a dinner bell around here
I did already,twice.With a Optimate which has saved several neglected batteries that were beyond hope but looks like this one was cooked.Lasted about 6 years on a bike that doesn't get a lot of miles because of multiple bikes.Also the quiet attracts them....