Michelin Road 5

Joined
Oct 24, 2013
Messages
30
Location
Lakeland, Florida
Bike
2006 ST 1300
STOC #
8971
Installed the new Road 5 in size 180 / 55 ZR 17 .

don't have many miles on it but I am very pleased so for with performance and looks and grip. No regrets.
 

gmast1100

Gettin old sux
Joined
Dec 26, 2008
Messages
1,554
Age
76
Location
Blairsville, GA
Bike
2016 Kawasaki Versys
STOC #
297
Following because getting ready to change out the almost worn PR4’s on my Versys.
 
Joined
Apr 10, 2018
Messages
1,294
Location
Martha Lake
Bike
F900 XR
2024 Miles
000800
Just a thought... The new Road 5 tire has no tread in the center. Michelin says that's good for traction, and it may be. I've had a previous (Metzeler 01) tire wear predominately there. To the point if I hadn't seen that center inch in the right light about 3 days before leaving on a cross-country trip, I'd have never noticed it till the cords started showing.

There are some tires like the PR4 and the Dunlop Roadsmart III that still have some tread running across the center of the tire.

Chris
 
Joined
Jun 12, 2015
Messages
442
Age
62
Location
Brookfield,WI
Bike
2015 K1600 GTL E
2024 Miles
000025
The GT's will not be available until next year. So I bought the the 4's this year. Got 13000+ off of previous pair. Very satisfied.
 
Joined
Aug 28, 2012
Messages
22
Location
Lancaster, PA - U.S.
Bike
2017 Yamaha FZ-10
Anyone try the Road 5 tires? I have run PR4s for the past three seasons and have not been happy with the wear on the outter 1/3 of the tread. Some have called it "cupping" however I didn't consider it cupping, the trailing edge of the sipes has a tail.

My suspension was upgraded with the proper springs, RaceTech front and rear and revalved for my weight, gear etc. and played with preload adjustment to no avail. The fact the questionable wear is on the outsides of the tread, I believe suspension adjustment would be less impacting, as suspension really only reacts to lateral movement, except throttle/braking (not as frequent) when leaned over. The suspension does move in these scenarios too, but much less then when running down the highway/road in a straight line.

Any shared experiences with Road 5 Front and Rear are appreciated.
 
Joined
Aug 21, 2018
Messages
6,777
Location
Richmond, VA
Bike
'01 & '96 ST1100s
STOC #
9007
Anyone try the Road 5 tires? I have run PR4s for the past three seasons and have not been happy with the wear on the outter 1/3 of the tread. Some have called it "cupping" however I didn't consider it cupping, the trailing edge of the sipes has a tail.
It's called feathering.
 
Joined
May 19, 2018
Messages
1,205
Location
Southern California
Bike
2005 ST1300 PA
Assuming proper air pressure maintenance, what causes this feathering or cupping on the front tire and only the left side?
Hope it’s not the shock, it rebounds properly.

Guys here in LA are getting Michelin R5 now. I believe they dropped the “P” prefix and “GT” suffix as there’s only one version going forward

It's called feathering.
 

Mophead

Site Supporter
Joined
Apr 10, 2017
Messages
550
Location
Texas panhandle
Bike
FJR1300
Quite a discussion over on the FJR board about how the tires are not suited for bikes this heavy and those who aren't getting much life from them. I haven't dug into it much but rather scanned a couple of guys whose opinion I tend to listen to versus others.

I run bias ply tires myself and have for many years so that makes me the odd duck around any tire thread.
 
Joined
May 19, 2018
Messages
1,205
Location
Southern California
Bike
2005 ST1300 PA
The motors I ride with are regularly putting 12k plus miles on PR4 GT and that includes ST1300-PA and R1200RT-P fully loaded popo interceptor bikes. Many have R5 now.

My bike came from Huntington Beach PD and had Bridgestone Battlax tires, and I replaced them with the same. Only got 6 or 7k out of them. Now I have PR4 GTs and will go R5s next.
 
Joined
Mar 21, 2016
Messages
1,135
Location
P.E.I., Canada
Bike
2005 st1300
Anyone try the Road 5 tires? I have run PR4s for the past three seasons and have not been happy with the wear on the outter 1/3 of the tread. Some have called it "cupping" however I didn't consider it cupping, the trailing edge of the sipes has a tail.

My suspension was upgraded with the proper springs, RaceTech front and rear and revalved for my weight, gear etc. and played with preload adjustment to no avail. The fact the questionable wear is on the outsides of the tread, I believe suspension adjustment would be less impacting, as suspension really only reacts to lateral movement, except throttle/braking (not as frequent) when leaned over. The suspension does move in these scenarios too, but much less then when running down the highway/road in a straight line.

Any shared experiences with Road 5 Front and Rear are appreciated.
In actual fact, suspension has a big impact on the outsides of the tire tread, namely rebound damping. Consider a shock that compresses 3 inches with a weight of , say 1500 lbs (keep in mind that these are just random numbers to illustrate a point). If there is too much rebound damping, the shock kicks back slow. If there is not enough rebound damping, the shock will return or "kick back" rapidly. The shock still has to unload that 1500 lbs of force but the faster it does it the harder it pushes the tire into the road. If you are going straight down the road at a constant speed, there is very little issue. But, when you are leaned over, the tire is always trying to slip or "break loose". When that weight is trying to unload fast and hard, it causes the tread blocks to distort more and induces "pogoing", ultimately causing feathering, usually. Some tires are worse than others. I haven't had much luck with PR4's, but in my experiments with settings, rebound damping had a big effect on uneven wear, namely feathering. Also, tuning your rebound damping could make for a much better handling bike. DDuelin posted a video on setting the rebound damping https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/st1300-setting-rear-shock-rebound-adj-video.109391/. Have a look at that video to see the dramatic difference it can make and try to picture being leaned over in a corner and what those differences could mean.

Assuming proper air pressure maintenance, what causes this feathering or cupping on the front tire and only the left side?
Hope it’s not the shock, it rebounds properly.

Guys here in LA are getting Michelin R5 now. I believe they dropped the “P” prefix and “GT” suffix as there’s only one version going forward
Cant say for sure, but I would definitely consider a front end alignment before anything else. Some say it is the slopes in the roads. Im not sure i can get my head around that, but I could be wrong
 
Last edited:

Gizmo

Dean
Joined
Mar 21, 2009
Messages
1,302
Location
Waterloo Region (Canada)
Bike
2014 Yamaha FJR
I'm lucky if I get 10,000 kms on my rear PR4 GTs! And I check the inflation before every trip, with upgraded suspension front and rear.
 
Joined
Jul 3, 2016
Messages
150
Location
Cochrane, Alberta
Bike
2007 ST1300
Like Gizmo, I get 10,000 km max out of a PR4 GT rear and have had 3 on the bike, all pretty much the same lifespan. I am pretty sure its riding style. High speed and twisty roads just eat tires. I have learned to accept the things I cannot change, and short tire life seems to be one of them when you drive a heavy, powerful motorcycle.
 
Joined
May 19, 2018
Messages
1,205
Location
Southern California
Bike
2005 ST1300 PA
City and highway driving pretty much just wears the center area of the tires. Its either slow (30-40mph) stop and go on city streets, or fast (70-80 mph) on highways - except when filtering through highway traffic.
 
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