Mobil 1 oil filters

Igofar

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I recently started using Mobil 1 M1-110 oil filters on the ST1300, since they are also the correct part for my 2008 Honda Element and my wifes 2008 Honda CRV.
However, I was talking to an old time track rat today and he suggested that if I use a LONG filter like the 110, that I should place a hoseclamp around the body to keep it from distorting and blowing out the seal:(
He also commented that most vehicles filter better with the shorter versions.
I cut a couple open and found the 108 and the 110 elements were almost the same size. Only the tin can was larger.
Comments?
 

Tom Mac 04a

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an old time track rat today and he suggested that if I use a LONG filter like the 110, that I should place a hoseclamp around the body to keep it from distorting and blowing out the seal
Maybe at the 'track' with high pressure oil pumps,... but these filters have a bypass at about 14lbs. Never heard of it happening on any stock bike or car with a longer filter.
I'm a +1 on the pl14610 prev listed.

In your case, I'd just stick with the Mobil 1 so you can stock just one filter and not loose any sleep! BTW, long or short is about 2-3 oz of oil diff and if you change it on reg basis you'll never know the diff
 
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talking to an old time track rat today and he suggested that if I use a LONG filter like the 110, that I should place a hoseclamp around the body to keep it from distorting and blowing out the seal
I think maybe you're only getting part of the story here. The real reason racers install a hose clamp on their oil filter was so that they would have somewhere to safety wire the filter to the engine. This was done so the bike could pass its tech inspection for the race track.

I don't have the link, but do a search of K & N motorsports oil filters. They now include a welded-on 'nut' on the end of their filter with cross drilled holes for racers to safety wire their filters in place.
 

dduelin

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If Honda thinks a short one is good enough to contain the right amount of filter media then it is. Their engines last an impressively long long long time with OEM filters. A longer one isn't going to filter any better unless you get it so clogged with dirt or sludge it threatens to open the bypass valve. If you are changing the oil at the right intervals this will never happen.
 
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Igofar

Igofar

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I think maybe you're only getting part of the story here. The real reason racers install a hose clamp on their oil filter was so that they would have somewhere to safety wire the filter to the engine. This was done so the bike could pass its tech inspection for the race track.

I don't have the link, but do a search of K & N motorsports oil filters. They now include a welded-on 'nut' on the end of their filter with cross drilled holes for racers to safety wire their filters in place.
I've got several oil filters cut open on my workbench...FYI the last one was a K&N oil filter with the nut on the end.
After viewing the insides of this filter, there is no way I would use any K&N filters on any of my bikes!
The rubber gasket was paper thin (worse than OEM honda) the bypass valve was poorly spot welded on, there was alot less filter surface than the OEM honda filter, etc.
After looking at just about 2 dozen different filters, I'm sticking with Mobil 1 (M1 108), made by champion, or bosch filters.
 
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My comments were only about the use of hose clamps on filters and why racers use them for safety wiring. I wasn't making an endorsement for or against K&N filters.

Honestly I've never used one before or seen one up close. I've only seen photos on websites. You may be entirely correct about the quality of the K&N. My comment was only about the welded nut for purposes of safety wiring as it relates to racing applications. Since K&N is marketed for racing and racers typically change their oil after a race or a weekend of racing, your quality argument might be moot to K&N's targeted market.

Back to your original post, if your person is worried about an oil filter distorting and blowing out a seal, the problem is not the oil filter, it is the by-pass valve in the OIL PUMP.
 

aniwack

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I stumbled across this post on Google. I talked to Igofar and he said the Mobil 1 filter to use is the M1-110A. 12 years after this post was originally made it's still the best filter non-OEM to use.
 
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would a mobil 1 oil filter with out a hose clamp blow out if I was to use anything but Mobil 1?OIP (2).jpg
 
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I've got several oil filters cut open on my workbench...FYI the last one was a K&N oil filter with the nut on the end.
After viewing the insides of this filter, there is no way I would use any K&N filters on any of my bikes!
The rubber gasket was paper thin (worse than OEM honda) the bypass valve was poorly spot welded on, there was alot less filter surface than the OEM honda filter, etc.
After looking at just about 2 dozen different filters, I'm sticking with Mobil 1 (M1 108), made by champion, or bosch filters.
I spent three hours today reviewing M/C oil filter study results by a pro. I've used Purolator ML16817 or Mobil M1MC-134 (made for motorcycles) for years on my 08 FJR.
I also agree on the negative comment about the K&N filters. I've read that more than once and never use them. Same insides as cheaper filters.
 
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I recently started using Mobil 1 M1-110 oil filters on the ST1300, since they are also the correct part for my 2008 Honda Element and my wifes 2008 Honda CRV.
However, I was talking to an old time track rat today and he suggested that if I use a LONG filter like the 110, that I should place a hoseclamp around the body to keep it from distorting and blowing out the seal:(
He also commented that most vehicles filter better with the shorter versions.
I cut a couple open and found the 108 and the 110 elements were almost the same size. Only the tin can was larger.
Comments?
Hey Larry, Came across this post from you from 2011. Are you still using Mobil 1 filters on your ST1300? Are you changing them out every 3000 miles? Did you put the hose clamp around the filter or just go with the shorty. Does the ST use a high volume-low pressure pump, low pressure-high volume pump, or any other combination available out there? Only one time in my life did I have an oil filter blow off upon start-up, and that was a brand new Mopar 340 motor I built with a high pressure-low volume pump that was recommended by Direct Connection at the time.
 
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