Murph's Kits CCS100 ST1100 install question

[Ashley]

So I've had a CCS100 from Murph's Kits for a while now and haven't been brave enough to install it yet. I've read all the info I can find on this forum and others as well as read the install manual. Most installs I've see has involved removing the carbs, or at least lifting high enough, to drill and tap the end of the throttle shaft to attach the bracket to pull the throttle open with. Has any one successfully avoided this and used part 29, throttle wire loop, from the Murph's kit? It is a short bare cable with a loop on one end and a crimp on the other. It's figure 4 in the manual available at http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/docs/cc100_ins.pdf I've had the carbs off before so I'm not unfamiliar with this just trying to find a simpler route.


Edit: Just realized this should be under Cruise Control section. Mods please feel free to move.

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

Hi Ashley,

I don't know of anyone that's tried that. Let us know how it works out if you do.

Here's my install, reposted after Webshots died (click on Title to get them in the intended order):

http://www.st-riders.net/coppermine/thumbnails.php?album=33

HTH Quite a few folks have successfully duplicated my install. FWIW

John
via iPhone 4S

 

[kiltman]

I have seen one install where a person used the loop, but I think it was on the 1300. I tried to use the loop but couldn't get it to fit so I abandoned the idea and went with having the screw installed on the bell crank. (Actually I had the mechanic do that part) For the most part I followed John's directions. (very good and detailed) I looped my cable differently. I went forward on the left side bringing it back to the top of the air filter housing. I then attached the cable holder to the air filter housing allowing me to run the cruise cable parallel to the throttle cables. I stuck the vacuum reservoir in the front left part of the fairing. John has a homemade one that sits under the frame by the kickstand which is an excellent choice.
All the best with your install.

 

[Ashley]

Hi Ashley,

I don't know of anyone that's tried that. Let us know how it works out if you do.

Here's my install, reposted after Webshots died (click on Title to get them in the intended order):

http://www.st-riders.net/coppermine/thumbnails.php?album=33

HTH Quite a few folks have successfully duplicated my install. FWIW

John
via iPhone 4S

Thanks John. I have reviewed your pics and many posts recently in preparation for this.

 

[Ashley]

I have seen one install where a person used the loop, but I think it was on the 1300. I tried to use the loop but couldn't get it to fit so I abandoned the idea and went with having the screw installed on the bell crank. (Actually I had the mechanic do that part) For the most part I followed John's directions.

I was concerned that the loop wouldn't fit as well. I have an extra set of carbs I'll experiment with first. My other concern is with drilling and tapping the shaft and bell crank, seems like this would weaken the structure but it sounds like this is how most do it so it must be working.

 

[kiltman]

I was concerned that the loop wouldn't fit as well. I have an extra set of carbs I'll experiment with first. My other concern is with drilling and tapping the shaft and bell crank, seems like this would weaken the structure but it sounds like this is how most do it so it must be working.

I think you might be successful with the carbs off as you have more room to work and fiddle. In the end I didn't have the patience, there isn't much room to manipulate the loop and align the throttle cable to co-operate getting it back into the slot.
If I recall, the person that did use a loop, dremelled a grove in the nipple of the throttle cable so the loop would be in the groove and then it could fit in the slot.....
so far I don't have any issues with the bellcrank.

 

[the_gr8t_waldo]

It's for that reason, I wanted to make sure that the throttle arm was the right length to assure myself that it matched the servo's travel.. just a hair longer so that the servo hit it's stop position before the bikes throttle hit it's travel stop.( so that it didn't put unnecessary stress on that pot metal part) It was too difficult to try to do it all while on the bike, so I opted for the work bench. took the opportunity to replace the carb rubbers

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

It's for that reason, I wanted to make sure that the throttle arm was the right length to assure myself that it matched the servo's travel.. just a hair longer so that the servo hit its stop position before the bike's throttle hit its travel stop.....

My concern also. I did a lot of testing and found the optimal distance between the center of the bellcrank to the point on the pull arm that the AudioVox cable attaches is 1.25 inches. TruST me. Nine balls on the pull cable extension with the end-of-cable bracket fixed so that at full cable release (throttle closed/off) there's a bit of slack in the extension with the throttle bellcrank at its stop.

http://www.st-riders.net/coppermine/displayimage.php?album=33&pid=814#top_display_media

Note the angle of the pull arm relative to the cable pull axis/direction.

It appeared to me that the looped cable method didn't allow for/cover the full range of travel of the ST1100 throttle.

One note about my install. All Tupperware can come off without the AudioVox interfering. Also almost all major work on the bike. Just click the last ball out of the keeper to remove the carbs.

John

 

[Aladinbama]

So I've had a CCS100 from Murph's Kits for a while now and haven't been brave enough to install it yet.

I'm pretty much in the same boat. My BeaST is approaching 100K and has yet to have its timing belt/water pump changed. I guess I'm just going to have to park it for a while and get all this stuff done!
I'm always looking for easier ways to do things - keep us posted!




















k

 

[Ashley]

Ok. I'm going in. Cruising by tomorrow night I hope.


Ashley

 

[Ashley]

Step one complete.


Ashley

 

[Ashley]

Step two complete after two trips to store for hardware.


Ashley

 

[v8-7]

Where are you going to place the vacuum canister ?

On my 1300 I placed it behind the airbox on the left side under the tank,as I saw gitsum recommend .

 

[Ashley]

Where are you going to place the vacuum canister ?

On my 1300 I placed it behind the airbox on the left side under the tank,as I saw gitsum recommend .

Stan, haven't fully decided on vacuum canister. As you know the 1300 differs quite a bit from 1100. I'm putting control unit in nose on left side and routing pull cable to right side following John's pattern for carb pull. I'd rather not mount control unit on lower left side behind exhaust like John did. I found a report from Bill Royal a few years back and it looked like front nose was a pretty good spot. Could probably fit vacuum up there as well.

 

[the_gr8t_waldo]

I've mounted my controller in the nose, but on the right side...I found it advantageous to route the cable along the right side and a slight bend onto the front of the square cross piece that sits blocking much of the carb /throttle assembly. total length < 2.5 foot. cut down with a dremel tool. I'm cheap and used a 500 ml water bottle for my vac. reservoir

 

[John OoSTerhuis]

.... used a 500 ml water bottle for my vac. reservoir

Waldo, you might want to check and see if it's not collapsed. Wouldn't be the first time using lighter weight material. There's a surprising amount of vacuum from the intake manifold ports.

John
via iPhone 4S

 

[the_gr8t_waldo]

I'm pretty sure it's nalgene ... rather thick walled. it's been functioning for years now. I had it on hand and thought I'd use it until something more substantial pops up...you know how it goes... 4-5 years latter and I sorta stopped looking for it's replacement.

 

[Ashley]

I've mounted my controller in the nose, but on the right side...I found it advantageous to route the cable along the right side and a slight bend onto the front of the square cross piece that sits blocking much of the carb /throttle assembly. total length < 2.5 foot. cut down with a dremel tool. I'm cheap and used a 500 ml water bottle for my vac. reservoir

This is basically what I'm planning. Looks like I have enough length to mount either left or right side. The kit I purchased has the vacuum reservoir included. Ended up not working on it yesterday as we did a little sight seeing in St. Simons Island GA. Also once I got in there I decided to go ahead and order hoses and water fittings.

 

[Ashley]

OK, back on this project after a few days waiting on parts I should have ordered in advance. Bell crank widget installed and pull cable mounted just like John O's install. My servo is installed in left front nose and cable comes across the back of the headlights down right side of bike making a gentle bend through frame behind right head. Vacuum can in right front nose. Carbs back on with new boots. Need to make a mount plate on the left hand clutch reservoir for switch. Need to finish up wiring. Question about using coil wire for signal source, have others done this without using the magnets? I have the magnets in the kit but not really sure I should bother unless it gives better results for maintaining a steady speed. Hopefully test ride tomorrow night after finishing wiring. One other thing, just notice John O used a one way vacuum valve between vacuum source and reservoir, is this necessary or a precaution?

 

[kiltman]

I believe the vacuum resevoir that you purchased has a one way valve built in. There is coding on the canister, check the instructions to make sure you hook up the tubes correctly from the vacuum source and to the audiovox unit.
I have tapped into the coil for my signal source and it works OK. There's a special blue 3m clip with spade connector that the kit comes with.