Thank you for your service. Seriously.
Need adhesive for rear brake pads
- Thread starter Sadlsor
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Sadlsor
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Nope.
Trying to quit.
Have tried Mcintosh' toffee to fasten your brake pad woes?
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No, not quite. I wrote a post that said that Honda specified a 3-bond adhesive for the retaining clips that locate at the tab end of the pads, seated in the caliper. Here's a pic of the same thing for the front pads.
I couldn't find 3 bond. I used a UHU Max Repair glue which is an extremely strong, but flexible adhesive that withstand water and heat. Very similar spec to the 3-bond. I reckon that it stops the clip vibrating and wearing away the recess in the caliper. But I am only surmising that that is the reason.
The silver anti-squeal plates just clip onto the backing plate of the brake pads, and stay in place all by themselves. For the rear pads, they have that thin white heat shield sandiched between pads and plate.
You should be able to bend the clips on the anti-squeal plate to make them stay in place. The new bike doesn't come with any lubricant on the backing plates. Nor does the manual specify anything. I got into the habit of using copper grease once, but now use Ceratec.
edit. I've just looked at those photos from @Sadlsor - those backing plates look to be a tad too big - just going by what I can see of the end of the clip. You could still try bending it over though. Assemble all 3 pieces and put them into the caliper as one. Are you using OEM pads , or are these non-Honda pads that have Honda plates?
Last edited:
And you need to be able to stop.
When it wanes at an alarming rate and of your positive mental health gains will be negatively impacted!
<get's a glass of water and takes a sip> - sorry, was a little horse.
I'd say try the break squeal stop as well like @TourNut & @caldercay . Comes in a stick too.
Kevcules
Site Supporter
You just want to hold the plates together so you can slide the pin through right? Lots of Permatex choices. These can handle the heat also, but it doesn't matter right? You just need them to stay put while you assemble. Good luck
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Although @aniwack is correct in saying that you shouldn't glue brake pads part together, I think he has misunderstood the oroblem. The 3 parts are completely separate items that simply clip together. If they come apart during assembly, then either the backing plate is the wrong size, or the clips have distorted. But once in place, the pistons will stop them separating anyway.
The problem is that they are separating when they are put into the caliper. Once separated, you are not going to be able to put them back together without removing the pads. Once together they should stay clipped together.
@Sadlsor - you mentioned those tags on the pad spring and snipped in that photo with them circled, which was useful.
If the tags are bent even slightly from 90 degrees, they may be knocking the thin antisqueal backing plate off as you insert the pads.
A couple of suggestions
Take the pad spring out, and check that it is Ok. If a tag is not at 90 degrees, then fix it. Bent slightly towards the wider strip isn't much of an issue, but if it is bent slightly towards the narrow strip, then it is. Make sure that the spring goes back in the correct way round. (If there is a bit of room for manoeuvre with the pad spring - I don't think that there is - nudged closer to the pistons is to be preferred.
If the caliper isn't mounted, then turn it upside down and make sure that there is room for the inner brake pad to fit behind those tags on the pad spring.
When re-inserting pads, i find it better if the pistons haven't been moved. There is then exactly the right amount of space for the pads to slide in. I sometimes rotate the wheel with the pad pressed against it to guide the pad into position.
I always put the outside pads in first.
I slide the pad assembly (pads, heat shield, backing plate) between the disc/rotor and pistons. If you push the caliper across towards the wheel, there will be no way that the 3 parts can come apart. Ensure the tab end seats in the retainer clip and lift the end with the hole up against the pad spring and lock it into place with a partly inserted pad pin.
Then the same thing for the inner pad, except this time pull the caliper towards you so that the pad assembly is trapped between cliper bracket 'fingers' and the braked disc rotor. You can let the pad slide along the hub of the wheel and then lift up the tab end to get it to seat in the retainer clip. No need to do this blind, you can see what you are doing from the right hand side through the wheel. It helps if the gear is in neutral, so that you can turn the wheel. This also helps to move the pad along. Finally lift the hole end of the pad up against the pad spring and secure it with the pad pin.
Pump out the pistons with the brake pedal. Dont ride off without doing this. If you do, it will give the opportunity for the 3 pieces to vibrate apart again.
The problem is that they are separating when they are put into the caliper. Once separated, you are not going to be able to put them back together without removing the pads. Once together they should stay clipped together.
@Sadlsor - you mentioned those tags on the pad spring and snipped in that photo with them circled, which was useful.
If the tags are bent even slightly from 90 degrees, they may be knocking the thin antisqueal backing plate off as you insert the pads.
A couple of suggestions
Take the pad spring out, and check that it is Ok. If a tag is not at 90 degrees, then fix it. Bent slightly towards the wider strip isn't much of an issue, but if it is bent slightly towards the narrow strip, then it is. Make sure that the spring goes back in the correct way round. (If there is a bit of room for manoeuvre with the pad spring - I don't think that there is - nudged closer to the pistons is to be preferred.
If the caliper isn't mounted, then turn it upside down and make sure that there is room for the inner brake pad to fit behind those tags on the pad spring.
When re-inserting pads, i find it better if the pistons haven't been moved. There is then exactly the right amount of space for the pads to slide in. I sometimes rotate the wheel with the pad pressed against it to guide the pad into position.
I always put the outside pads in first.
I slide the pad assembly (pads, heat shield, backing plate) between the disc/rotor and pistons. If you push the caliper across towards the wheel, there will be no way that the 3 parts can come apart. Ensure the tab end seats in the retainer clip and lift the end with the hole up against the pad spring and lock it into place with a partly inserted pad pin.
Then the same thing for the inner pad, except this time pull the caliper towards you so that the pad assembly is trapped between cliper bracket 'fingers' and the braked disc rotor. You can let the pad slide along the hub of the wheel and then lift up the tab end to get it to seat in the retainer clip. No need to do this blind, you can see what you are doing from the right hand side through the wheel. It helps if the gear is in neutral, so that you can turn the wheel. This also helps to move the pad along. Finally lift the hole end of the pad up against the pad spring and secure it with the pad pin.
Pump out the pistons with the brake pedal. Dont ride off without doing this. If you do, it will give the opportunity for the 3 pieces to vibrate apart again.
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Sadlsor
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Negative. I bought a 2-part adhesive from local auto parts store, let it cure 24 hours, and the brake pad held together for 8 minutes before failing.
Off to work before sunup, back home after dark -- it still has the rear wheel off.
Hopefully this weekend.
I appreciate you thinking of me.
rwthomas1
Site Supporter
OK, I'm at a loss. The thin backing plate fell off in-situ or during assembly? Scrape off the adhesive, tweak the tabs so they grab like they should and assemble it.
RT
Whooshka
Fairly faST old guy
The price of new pads is well worth the piece of mind. Just sayin'.
rwthomas1
Site Supporter
This I don't understand. From the pics, the loose part is simply the thin metal heat shield on the back of the pad. There is the pad, an insulator and the thin metal shield. The clips are loose. Bend them back. I've had new come out of the box like this, it's a common problem. He just needs them to stay in place long enough to reassemble. It's not rocket science, space shuttle brakes these are not. Advocating throwing money at a problem, especially when the money may not fix it, makes little sense.
RT
Whooshka
Fairly faST old guy
Obviously we have different approaches. "Advocating throwing money at at problem"? New pads fixes the problem, no? It's something you'll have to do eventually. You want to be cheap with brakes, go ahead. Your bike.
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Sadlsor
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I AM cheap, to be sure... but not when it comes to the ST (are we "cheap" because we do our own service work, rather than go to the STealership?)
Seriously, these pads have half-to-two-thirds their life left. I'll get new ones in advance of needing them, but not at this moment.
rwthomas1
Site Supporter
Correctly diagnosing a problem, and fixing it is hardly being cheap. Neither is reinstalling parts that are minimally worn. Insinuating being cheap with brakes is somehow unsafe is hyperbole. Installing new pads, if the backing plate has come loose in he box, will present the same issue. Figuring out how to fix something increases the knowledge and skillset of the person doing the work. Might come in handy someday far from home, and new parts.
RT