Need Cure for Back-Fires into ST1100 Air Box during Cold Running and Warm UP

Joined
May 14, 2011
Messages
10
Location
Ventura, CA
Bike
ST1100A 2001
First, let me say I did read existing threads, but I think my problem may be a little different. I have a 2001 ST1100 CA model with ABS and all the PAIR plumbing. It only has 8000 miles. I recently took it into a shop with a fuel leak. After much effort, we found that one carb was leaking fuel out the bottom. This was fixed by shop with a new gasket (and a ton of cash from my pocket). Leak is definitely eliminated.

Here is the problem. Since the Carbs were re-installed and synched by dealer (after fixing the fuel leak), I have a NEW problem in cold running. In the morning, when cold, the bike will back-fire up through the carbs into the airbox. This causes a loud "POCK - POCK" sound and (with tank cover removed), I can see the vent hoses coming from the airbox pulse and shake. It may do this 20-30 times in a half-mile of riding.

As before, the bike would start right up with full choke. I let it run at 2200 rpm high idle on full choke for about 40 seconds, then back to half-choke. Before the "fix" the bike would run smoothly on half-choke for about 1 mile, then I would thumb off the choke, when the bike was fully warmed.

Now, even after long warm-up, when I try to ride off, the engine will back-fire (if that is the right term) into the air box for a couple miles before the engine is fully warm. It will do this at all choke settings from half-choke to just barely on. (It does not back-fire during the fast idle with full choke).

The bike otherwise runs fine when fully warm. Throttle response is good, acceleration is good, no backfiring through the exhaust pipes, even on deceleration.

Q: What can I do to eliminate the back-firing into the airbox? I assume this is not a good thing and could potentially cause some issues with fouling or airbox seals. I'm reluctant to take it back to the same dealer because they seem to create a new problem every time they worked on it and it took a half-dozen carb-off/carb-on sequences over a month to fix the fuel leak.

NOTE: The carbs were supposedly synched properly. The carbs were also thoroughly cleaned not too long ago. After cleaning this popping did not occur. The problem arose after fuel leak fix. Plugs were pulled and look fine. This is something new, post-"fix".
 
Joined
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Dahlonega, GA
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2018 NC750X
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I question their resyncing the carbs. Its possible they may not have tightened all the clamps around the carb isolators, or its possible you could have a cracked isolator allowing air to leak in.
The thing I would do is return it to the shop and tell them of the issue and ask them to revisit the rough idle issue that was not there when you brought it to them in the first place.
 

Paul

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08 ST13 05 VStrom 1K
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An 11 year old bike with 8000 miles on it, and the carbs have been on and off six times in one month. I think the carb boots or some vacuum lines have been terrorized by all that activity. I smell a vacuum leak, and carbs synched to the leak,only worsens the problem.
 

bdalameda

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If the rubber manifolds are old they are probably leaking when cold. As the rubber manifold age they shrink, the manifold clamps can barely tighten enough to seal new manifolds so if your carbs have been removed a couple of time this is almost certainly the problem. After the engine warms up the rubber softens and engine vacuum will pull the manifolds tight and most leaks will stop. This is a very common problem on St1100's. You probably need to replace the manifolds adjust the idle mixture and re-synch the carbs.

Dan
 
OP
OP
Joined
May 14, 2011
Messages
10
Location
Ventura, CA
Bike
ST1100A 2001
Dan,
Thanks for the tips. Yesterday it was warmer at dawn, and the problem was barely detectable. This morning, however, it was pretty cold and foggy. I ran the bike at full choke, high idle for 40 seconds. Then tried riding off with no choke (as I did yesterday). Bike didn't like that -- engine struggling -- so I switched to choke in half-way position. The "popping" back into airbox started immediately, and didn't go away till bike was fully warmed, per temp gauge.
 
OP
OP
Joined
May 14, 2011
Messages
10
Location
Ventura, CA
Bike
ST1100A 2001
SOLUTION FOUND
Cause: Mechanic Malpractice

I took the bike 100 miles to JBJ Cycles in Santa Ana. I had removed some of the plastics to save on labor, and the JBJ guy IN TEN SECONDS of inspection noted that the carburetors were NOT pushed down all the way into the carb boots (insulators).

In addition, one of the vacuum hoses under the airbox was not connected.

Also, the sync was totally off -- "Way, way off" according to JBJ.

Then, to make matters worse, the previous mechanic had totally messed up the idle screws in an effort to rich the mixture.

Good news: The boots were in good condition -- no need to replace.

Current status: Engine runs beautifully. No vacuum leaks. No gas leaks. No cold-start issues. No backfires.
Work was completed by JBJ in ONE DAY. (Previous mechanic had bike for 5 weeks!)

ALL the problems were attributable to incompetent wrenching for which I was charged twice as much as JBJ charged.
 

John OoSTerhuis

Life Is Good!
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May 10, 2005
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Bettendorf, Iowa
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1991 SSMST1100
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Thanks for the followup, Paul. Glad you're up and running smooth again.

BTW, what's the name of the shop that screwed up your ST. I'm sure your fellow area STriders would appreciate that info.

Regards, John
 
Last edited:
OP
OP
Joined
May 14, 2011
Messages
10
Location
Ventura, CA
Bike
ST1100A 2001
Thanks for the followup, Paul. Glad you're up and running smooth again.

BTW, what's the name of the shop that screwed up your ST. I'm sure your fellow area STriders would appreciate that info.

Regards, John
John, next week I'll be attempting to negotiate a partial refund of excessive monies I was charged by mechanic that did the first work. At a minimum I think I should be entitled to recover what I had to pay JBJ to fix the problems caused by prior mechanic's ineptitude and sloppy work. If that doesn't go well, I will be happy to broadcast to the world a "caveat emptor" about this shop.
 
Joined
Oct 19, 2009
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199
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Nor Cal
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2005 ST1300A
Thats EXACTLY why i don't take my cars or cycles or lawnmowers or anything to have it worked on! Well unless there was a trusted sole - which do exist - but rare.
 
Joined
May 30, 2007
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Grand Junction, Colo.
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92 ST1100
Just think of all the unemployment for mechanics, all of us home wrenchers are causing.
Yup, and the older these STeeds get, the more everyone NEEDS to do their own 'wrenching'. Why, if I had to reley on someone else everytime there was an issue with my 32yr.old Yammy XS1100 Venturer, it would of been 'shelved' a long time ago. These 20yr.old STeeds are coming up in age, and are no different, even though they seem to have the same kind of durability. Still man-made=made to break.
 
Joined
Oct 1, 2013
Messages
5
Location
Maine, USA
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2006 ST1300
I found this thread researching for solution to the same problem on my 1999 ST1100 with 49,000 miles. I have backfiring into the airbox at cold temps also - say below 40 deg F. The backfiring is only coming from the right rear carb and happens just off idle up to 2000 rpm or so. So far I pulled the carbs, replaced the rubber isolators, checked rubber diaphragms (they looked brand new). Took float bowl off the offending carb - very clean. Checked vacuum hoses for leaks. After all that work it's still doing the same thing. Since it's only happening to one cylinder it has to be something used only on that one cylinder. It only manifests itself when it's colder so it leads me to the carb as the culprit. I think the problem is some clogged jets which means the solution is disassembly and run everything in my ultrasonic cleaner. Correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks.
 
Joined
Nov 13, 2012
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45
Location
Netherlands
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ST1100N '92
Had the same problem on mine. Checked all and everything and could not locate it. (Carb boots just new.) Then someone suggested to replace the spark plugs, even though they seemed to be in perfect condition. After that, the backfiring was gone. I can not explain it, but it worked.
 
Joined
May 30, 2007
Messages
1,386
Age
72
Location
Grand Junction, Colo.
Bike
92 ST1100
As Basic stated, a simple thing like plugs may resolve issue. Might consider syncing carbs, as that #4 throttle plate may be slightly open farther than rest drawing more cooler air in before up to operating temp. Also, a splash of SeaFoam, Chemtrol, or BG's 44K in fuel may help resolve any internal restrictions. Definitely all worth a try before resorting to carb bank removal;).
 
Joined
Oct 1, 2013
Messages
5
Location
Maine, USA
Bike
2006 ST1300
Basic, Brant, thanks for your reply. I though about the plugs, wires, and coil as possible culprits. I had the same problem last winter and replaced the plugs last spring. I just tried switching the two right plugs - still backfiring thru the right rear carb. I did notice that the plug from the rear carb was a different color - grey with some minor build-up (lean condition?). When I had the carb assembly out I inspected the throttle blade positions; all four seemed to be the same. I plan on testing the plug wire. I will try SeaFoam but I still suspect some plugging in the carb low/mid range jets.
 
Joined
Oct 1, 2013
Messages
5
Location
Maine, USA
Bike
2006 ST1300
Solution to my carb backfire - slow jets were partially or totally plugged. Cooked al the jets in an ultrasonic cleaner. After reassembly had to re-sync the carbs. Bike now runs smooth with no backfires. Probably could get even better tune with some pilot screw adjustments but I didn't have the special pilot screw wrench.
 
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