need help getting the brake pedal bracket back on.

[docw1]

I'm having trouble getting the rear brake pedal bracket back on. I removed the two rear bolts, which were holding on the MCL saddlebag protectors because they were getting rusty and I wanted to remove the rust and paint them. However, I can't get the holes to match up to reinsert the bolts. There is about 1/8 to 1/4 inch offset and I cant move the unit around enough to get a straight shot. I even removed the whole unit and had trouble reinserting the two front bolts (galled the threads and had to do some thread chasing. Currently the two front bolts are loosely inserted but still can't get a straight shot to insert the back two. the rail arm needs to move back just a little. Any suggestions as to how to get these bolts inserted?

Thanks,
Bill

 

[Mark]

rut roh...

You have probably already guessed; but, you're not supposed to remove them both at the same time because... well you now know!

I think I remember reading you're going to have to lift the back of the bike...

 

[acedantinne]

Tapered punch, light pressure, make sure the end of punch is in a little, not on end of threads.
works for me.

 

[docw1]

Tapered punch, light pressure, make sure the end of punch is in a little, not on end of threads.
works for me.

Not sure what you mean. Do you mean sticking a punch into the threaded potion of one of the holes to pry the arm into alignment? Wouldn't that damage the threads?

 

[dduelin]

Tapered punch, light pressure, make sure the end of punch is in a little, not on end of threads.
works for me.

+ 1. Might try a bronze drift in place of a steel punch.

 

[Igofar]

I wouldn't suggest forcing or prying anything with a punch, as there is too much chance that you'll damage the threads again, and as you know STEEL bolts can really damage an ALLUMINUM foot rest. I'd try one of two things....first if you have a small floor jack, car jack, or bottle jack, Try putting it under the swingarm or shaft area and lifting the weight off the rear end (this should work). If you don't have the tools, find some wood scraps and try wedging a couple pieces up under the rear wheel until the frame lines up. This is what I've done in the past and it worked perfectly. Hope it works for you.
Just use caution and don't drop that bike on yourself.
Good luck, let us know what happens.
Igofar

 

[dduelin]

I wouldn't suggest forcing or prying anything with a punch, as there is too much chance that you'll damage the threads again, and as you know STEEL bolts can really damage an ALLUMINUM foot rest. I'd try one of two things....first if you have a small floor jack, car jack, or bottle jack, Try putting it under the swingarm or shaft area and lifting the weight off the rear end (this should work). If you don't have the tools, find some wood scraps and try wedging a couple pieces up under the rear wheel until the frame lines up. This is what I've done in the past and it worked perfectly. Hope it works for you.
Just use caution and don't drop that bike on yourself.
Good luck, let us know what happens.
Igofar

How would lifting the rear wheel accomplish the task? When both bolts on one side are removed the subframe that supports the seat and rear section droops down out of alignment. Lifting the wheel or swing arm doesn't lift the drooping subframe at all. Use a brass or bronze drift because it's softer than the steel threads and won't damage them as you gently pry down and lift the subframe back into alignment to start one of the bolts. The round section of the drift won't hurt the aluminum foot peg hanger either. I did the same thing when I installed my crash bars. I used this brass drift to get it lined back up and a bolt started:

 

[Igofar]

How would lifting the rear wheel accomplish the task? When both bolts on one side are removed the subframe that supports the seat and rear section droops down out of alignment. Lifting the wheel or swing arm doesn't lift the drooping subframe at all. Use a brass or bronze drift because it's softer than the steel threads and won't damage them as you gently pry down and lift the subframe back into alignment to start one of the bolts. The round section of the drift won't hurt the aluminum foot peg hanger either. I did the same thing when I installed my crash bars. I used this brass drift to get it lined back up and a bolt started:

Can't say how or why, all I know is that it worked for me when I was re-installing the hangers after removing the crash bars on a bike I was working on.
Your brass or bronze drift would work IF the person using it was very carefull and knew what he was doing (like yourself).
Nice drift ya got there by the way.

 

[Byron]

Something definitely pulled the rear section of the frame out of alignment. Has the bike ever been in a crash? If so then maybe the rear section is tweaked and when you removed the lover section it simply pulled away. If not then check all the other mounting bolts to make sure that none of them have broken and allowed the section to shift. You may need to loosen them in order to pull the section back into place before tightening all the bolts again.

 

[Igofar]

Try loosening ALL the bolts on both sides, then starting them.

 

[Mellow]

It's normal for them to misalign when you pull both bolts.. you have a lot of stuff going on back there.

You can try putting it on the centerstand to see if the relieves the pressure. I know I did lots of stuff to try and line them up and it was a combination of being on side stand and pulling down on the luggage rack.

Yup... only ever remove one of those bolts at a time... just makes life easier.

 

[970mike]

You may have to lift up on the back of the bike to get the holes to line up again also.

 

[Indian Express]

This happened to me. Put the bike on center stand and have a neighbor come over and lift the back of the bike from the tail rack until the holes align. Or (this is the method I used) park the bike on center stand underneath something you can attach a small come along or heavy duty tie down strap, ratcheting type (I used the garage door rail and heavy duty tie down) connect the other end to the tail rack and ratchet it up slowly until the holes align. Worked the first time I tried it. Good Luck!

 

[acedantinne]

I have a Snap On alinment tool it is tapered on 1 end & a flat wedge on the other. I have used this bar to gain purchase alot of X's. Mostly in engine replacements. No I have never damaged any bolt holes or threads
By your picture You are off just a little, been there done that, won't take much to get bolt started.

 

[docw1]

Finally got it back together. I had a little lift under the rear tire, but put in the rear bolts first, loosely, then the front bolts. With all my ham-handedness, a lot of the threads on both the bolts and the bolt holes got buggered up, so had to do a lot of thread chasing. Live and learn. thanks for all the suggestions.

Bill

 

[acedantinne]

Good to read. Hope not to bad???