New G6 H4 with SHIELD is now availible - no glare no scatter.

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spiderman302
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ST1300_HeadLightWireing.jpg


Your short was on the right lamp which would take out fuse D/E or main fuse A. This would shut down both lights.
The left bulb will not work without the right side working.

If you moved the right lamp connector to the good left bulb and replaced the fuse then you could have gotten home with one headlight.
The right side is the master control of the left and is good for everyone to know this.

You will be impressed at how much better the F2 plus is over the G6 bulb.
If you add some good passing lights as well, you will wonder how we ever survived with halogen bulbs... :rofl1:
 

Andrew Shadow

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The right side is the master control of the left and is good for everyone to know this.
Fuse E was blown. When I got back home I replaced the fuse with a circuit breaker from a short tester and quickly diagnosed that it was only the right side low beam that was shorting out. On high beam both sides worked normally.

Now I have to go through 500 posts to figure out what I should be ordering to replace them.
 

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Andrew Shadow

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Thanks very much for the recommendation!
My 1100 is still on the original 28A alternator. Would these LEDs draw less power than the halogens?
Yes. If you have the same bulbs as the original Honda bulbs, they draw 45 Watts each, 90 Watts for the pair, and they are about the least powerful headlamp bulbs that you will find. The manufacturer states that the LED bulbs that you have referenced draw 72 Watts for both. Spiderman has often found the claimed Wattage to be inaccurate, but they will be far less than any decent halogen for certain.
 
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Andrew Shadow

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cougar motor flagship h4
Thanks, saved me a lot of time.

Holy cow are they expensive now. When I bought the G6, they were under $40.00 CAD. These are listed at $150.00 CAD. I'll have to do some price shopping.
 
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Yes. If you have the same bulbs as the original Honda bulbs, they draw 45 Watts each, 90 Watts for the pair, and they are about the least powerful headlamp bulbs that you will find. The manufacturer states that the LED bulbs that you have referenced draw 72 Watts for both.
Awesome! More light and less power? Sweet.
I see that they rotate for aiming. Is there a 'best angle' I should follow?
 

Andrew Shadow

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Awesome! More light and less power? Sweet.
I see that they rotate for aiming. Is there a 'best angle' I should follow?
Beam pattern perfectly flat, or horizontal, is the norm for motorcycles. For most LED bulbs that I am familiar with, that usually works out to the wiring harness pigtail that exits the back of the LED bulb assembly positioned at the 6 O'clock position.
 
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Beam pattern perfectly flat, or horizontal, is the norm for motorcycles. For most LED bulbs that I am familiar with, that usually works out to the wiring harness pigtail that exits the back of the LED bulb assembly positioned at the 6 O'clock position.
Thanks very much!
These in the front and a pair of Sylvania 1157 led equivalents in the back should reduce the draw about as much as I can expect to. Hopefully that will allow the alternator to last longer.
 

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Hopefully that will allow the alternator to last longer.
While these will lighten the load on the alternator it wouldn't seem that electrical failure is the 28A alternator's problem. I thought the failure was the oil leak and that the 40A upgrade provided more current but also corrected the problem with oil leaking.

Reducing the load with LED lighting all around will give you a little more capacity for accessories. IIRC there is a post or two here stating the 28A alternator is plenty for a stock 1100. I don't know if that allows for heated grips or what.
 

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Thanks, saved me a lot of time.

Holy cow are they expensive now. When I bought the G6, they were under $40.00 CAD. These are listed at $150.00 CAD. I'll have to do some price shopping.
If you want slightly less lumens (The current Cougars claim 20,000 lumens), these are still better than the old G6 and way better than OEM.

14,000 lumens $49.99 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0912R7VV1/?coliid=I36EGCWYJVDCC2&colid=10FX93PGFFDWC&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

12,000 lumens $42.99 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B07QWC31CW/?coliid=I5GL7YW8YEKHV&colid=10FX93PGFFDWC&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1

FYI The "old" F2 bulbs that many of us have that were the G6 upgrade at the time are 12,000 lumens.

If you don't want to spend the money there are less pricey items that will still work fine.

For those who don't care about the cost, the ones Spidey posted are the latest and greatest. https://www.amazon.com/Cougar-Motor-H4-Headlight-Conversion/dp/B082MDGVDC
 
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dduelin

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Beam pattern perfectly flat, or horizontal, is the norm for motorcycles. For most LED bulbs that I am familiar with, that usually works out to the wiring harness pigtail that exits the back of the LED bulb assembly positioned at the 6 O'clock position.
A flat beam pattern might be the norm for many motorcycles but for Hondas fitting H4/9003 bulbs it is not. Look at how yours are fitted to make sure of this. The stock halogen bulbs and aftermarket H4/9003/LED bulbs fitted into my 1300 were tilted about 5 degrees to the left with the locating tabs fitted into the reflector. Accordingly the Evitek G6 had the locking nibs on the emitter placed so the G6 tilts slightly to the left when fitted in the slotted holder. The Cougar F2 fits the same way in my NC700X. The picture of the F2 in the NC shows the tilt to the left of horiziontal when fitted in the stock reflector. The red cross is a rough depiction of the rotation from vertical.

1100 owners speak of the need to use shims to properly orient aftermarket bulbs in the 1100's reflector. 1100 owners can chime in to say if the standard bulbs fit horizontally in the reflector. I never owned the 1100 to know.

IMG_3520.jpg
 
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While these will lighten the load on the alternator it wouldn't seem that electrical failure is the 28A alternator's problem. I thought the failure was the oil leak and that the 40A upgrade provided more current but also corrected the problem with oil leaking.

Reducing the load with LED lighting all around will give you a little more capacity for accessories. IIRC there is a post or two here stating the 28A alternator is plenty for a stock 1100. I don't know if that allows for heated grips or what.
Thanks for the reply!
Yes, I've heard about a couple three failure modes for the 28A alternator. Reduced output demand *may* allow the stator to last longer. There are no guarantees. Oil leaks and harness failure are still threats.
 

Andrew Shadow

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Look at the H4 halogen bulb, top tab is straight up in a USA car but the bulb is slightly twisted. the shield is not flat.
But if you look in your motorcycle headlight you will see that the tab is offset which makes the bulb and shield level which makes for a flat beam.
You're taxing my memory about all of this Dave, and you might well be correct. I haven't seen an original Honda bulb in a long time, and I didn't pay attention when I removed my G6 the other day. The below is from memory, so it may not be accurate because as we all know, memory is not always the best technical resource.

The flat beam pattern is the motorcycle standard everywhere except North America, which is part of why Honda sells the proprietary bulbs here- I think, see below.
North American headlamp housings and motorcycle headlamp housings do not have the upper tab notch in the same location due to different lighting regulations in North America compared to almost everywhere else, and is part of the reason why many motorcycle have these different bulbs that don't match what is in our cars in North America. Many motorcycle have these different bulbs by the way, it isn't just the ST1300.

North American automobile headlamp housings have the notch for the bulb base upper tab at exactly 12:00. A North American automotive 9003 bulb base installs with the upper tab to match at 12:00, but the bulb is mounted to that base offset- I thought that it was 15°, which provides the up-tilt of light on the right-hand side. In a motorcycle headlamp housing the notch for the bulb base upper tab is not at 12:00. It is slightly offset from 12:00. This is because most other countries outside of North America use standard automotive bulbs in motorcycle headlamps. This offset notch in the motorcycle headlamp housing causes the automotive bulb to be orientated so that the bulb filaments are rotated back to horizontal when they are installed in a motorcycle headlamp housing. This cancels out the up-tilt and results in a flat beam pattern. The flat beam pattern is so that the motorcycle headlamps meet the anti-glare requirements of all countries regardless of what side of the road they drive on.

These LED bulbs are made to the automotive standard, not the motorcycle standard, so they will have the bulb mounted off-set on the base as well when they are in the 9003 specified orientation. When they are installed in a motorcycle headlamp housing, this offset is cancelled out the same as it is with the 9003 bulb. These LED bulbs can be rotated in their base to fine tune the beam pattern as one wishes however. Again, from memory, this was an intended design feature so that these bulbs could be used in the automotive markets of both left-hand and right-hand drive countries, not to suit the motorcycle industry.

You now have me wondering how much of the above I am misremembering. Some of it is from reading posts that @spiderman302 has made over the years. Maybe he can chime in and correct whatever I have stated that is wrong for the benefit of us all, as long as he doesn't make me stand in the corner for getting it wrong.

As a side-note, I preferred the flat beam because I found that these bulbs are so bright that when I had the right-hand up-tilt and I was traveling on a multi-lane road to the left of other vehicles at night, these bulbs shined so brightly in the mirrors of the vehicles that I was passing that I was blinding the drivers of these vehicles going in the same direction. Having a flatter beam pattern helped avoid this and did not detract from illuminating road signs in any significant way.
 

dduelin

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I think the tilt comes out just the way it is supposed to in the end. These are high and low beam projections of the bulb in my earlier post. NC7OOX with a Cougar F2.

IMG_2601.jpegIMG_2600.jpeg
 
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adjusting the beam flat is the correct thing to do for motor cycles and tilt up left or right as needed for four wheels.

The F2 has offset shields. if you look at the tip you will notice that the two cup are different sizes. The F2 plus shields are symmetrical.
they did get it wrong on the F2 and some others, but the adjustability allows us to set it correctly as well as those who drive on the other side can set the tilt to their needs.
 

Andrew Shadow

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If you want slightly less lumens (The current Cougars claim 20,000 lumens), these are still better than the old G6 and way better than OEM.

14,000 lumens $49.99 https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0912R7VV1/?coliid=I36EGCWYJVDCC2&colid=10FX93PGFFDWC&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1
Based on your previous response to me, I ordered the ones in the above link. I have received them but have not installed them yet. They are significantly different from the G6 LED Bulbs that I have after just a quick look. I don't know if these are the ones that you ordered or not, maybe you will not know. If not, I am hoping that @spiderman302 will know.

1- The LED emitters are oriented horizontally rather than vertically as they are in the G6. I guess that this is better as it more closely resembles the position of the filaments in a Halogen bulb.
2- Most of the LED bulbs that spiderman has recommended seemed to be installed with the wire exiting at the 6:00 position. Doing so with these would result in the deflectors deflecting the light emitted by the LED upward instead of down ward, so it seems that these get installed with the wire exiting at the 12:00 position?
3- The G6 could be rotated 360° in their base to any position desired. This allowed orientating them to achieve a flat light beam pattern. There is a hard stop in the base of these that will not allow the emitters to be positioned perfectly vertical. I won't know until I put them in and try them, but the offset seems to be quite significant. It also seems that it will throw the light in such a way that the up-tilt in the beam will be the wrong way, so I am wondering what kind of beam pattern these will produce.

I am assuming that if there are scratch marks on the connectors indicating that they have been installed I won't be able to return them, so I thought that I would ask before trying them. I am curious about a few things.

1- Is there sufficient room up in there for the wire to exit at the 12:00 position? I can't remember what clearance is up there, so I don't know if there is something in the way that will put stress on the wire in this position.
2- Is that seemingly large offset an issue? Will it produce a good beam pattern? Will the light emitted be tilted up on the correct side for North America?

In the below photo the G6 is on the top, the F2 is on the bottom.
G6_F2.jpg

The below photo is the G6 the way that I had it installed, with the wire exiting at 06:00, the emitter board vertical inline with the top locating tab, and the deflectors deflecting the light downward.
G6 .jpg

The below photo is the newly received F2 showing the deflectors pointing upwards when the wire is at the 06:00 position.
It also shows that the emitter board can not be aligned vertically inline with the top locating tab. The emitter is rotated as far as it can go towards vertical.
F2.jpg
 
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