Front wheel/suspension/steering installation has nothing to do with alignment on the front forks/trees.ST1300 service manual section 15-21.
Correct. Keep your hands off the brakes when aligning the forks. I just push the front tire against the wall 2-3 times to compress the forks, then torque the left pinch bolts.Front wheel/suspension/steering installation has nothing to do with alignment on the front forks/trees.
ST1300 service manual section 1-13 - 20 ft lbs for the engine oil filter cartridge
....Again.....go back and watch the video all the way through
If the front wheel and axle assembly is not aligned to the fork legs when assembled the bike can have a tendency to pull to one side and/or the calipers do not have sufficient clearance to disks so the Honda service manual procedure using the front brake accomplishes the alignment just fine. You could also press the wheel up against a wall not using the brake or loosen every fastener from axle to top bridge nut and bounce it without using the brake - like in the video.Front wheel/suspension/steering installation has nothing to do with alignment on the front forks/trees.
ST1300 service manual section 1-13 - 20 ft lbs for the engine oil filter cartridge
....Again.....go back and watch the video all the way through
That's almost exactly what I did. At 165 lbs riding weight I needed a 16 mm (5/8" inch)longer spacer to get the preload and thus fork sag right. Then a slightly thinner fork fluid.today I added oil to the rear shock preload adjuster, thanks for the guide. It was almost empty. Took the bike to a friend who installs M/C suspensions. He suggested I add 1/2in longer spacer in front fork before considering spring replacement. Will do.
I do not know the size but I've reused the ones on mine and they do not leak. Like crush washers on oil pan drains, good to replace now and then but mostly just flip them over and reuse.stopped at Honda pickup crush washers for banjo ftg on preload adjuster, Sold me wrong size. Anyone know the Honda part #???
Oh, it works just fine at my weight. More preload only raises ride height, it doesn't change spring rate. To make sure use zip ties to measure maximum fork travel. The stock springs need a small air gap to keep travel within 10 mm of bottoming. If you go to a stiffer spring then it makes sense to lower the oil level.The stock OEM spacer is 200 mm, by replacing it with a piece of PVC (schedule 40) that is 215 mm long may work for you, only rub is, you may have to fiddle with the oil level now and find one that works for you, as the stock level may not work as well with a longer spacer.
All you will need to remove the caps are a 12 mm socket, 17 mm allen, and a 14 mm open end wrench or crows foot socket.installed risers today so while the bars were off thought I would change fork spacers to longer, No go found damper rod conn to fork cap. So not possible without removing forks.
Absolutely. It's easy to fool yourself by comparing the performance of worn out equipment (shocks, forks, carb, brakes, steering bearings...etc) with an expensive new replacement part.Do your maintenance....then start changing things..T
ToddC
You've gotten a lot of good information to check on.Did Hway today first time not a happy camper. Found the tracking to be bad. Bike was unsteady. Speeds up to 85mph. Not sure how to describe the ride. Tires are good 40lbs air ride was smooth but a little wobbly.
Seems to me front is too soft. Need new front springs. And possibly a fork brace. Any thoughts???
So slide a board under the front wheel to push the dampening rod up out of the fork to tighten the nut, then remove the board and screw the cap on. Yes you will have to push firmly on the cap to compress it enough to screw it back on. Make sure that you do not cross thread it as the they are fine threads. It is slightly difficult, but not impossible. Adding the proper preload makes a great difference in the handling of the bike.I had the cap off and I removed the spacer but I didn't think I could install a longer spacer and compress it enough to install the cap and tighten the 14mm nut. The 14mm nut when tightened against the cap is below the top of fork,
I had the same issue with a used 07 ST1300 I bought last summer. First changed the tires to Michelin PR4's, the previous Dunlop's still had plenty of tread but the front tire was cupped from running under inflated. When I got the bike they had 20/25 lbs of air in back/front. Also had the steering bearings tightened, there was a wobble in the front end when on the center stand and the front wheel was in the air. Both of these things helped. The final thing was removing the Givi. My brother had been suggesting this and it really made the difference at speeds over 70. When I first purchased the bike it was very squirrelly on the freeway, it was like driving on ice/snow. It really rocks now. From reading these threads and watching the videos I've found a few new things to try. Cheers!You've gotten a lot of good information to check on.
One thing no one has mentioned - the windscreen. That screen, when raised, acts like a sail and it will feel like the bike is weaving. Actually, what it feels like to me (Larry thought it was a good description) is like I'm riding the bike on ice. Run the screen up - feel the twitching? Now lower it and you will notice the ride is more stable. This phenomena can actually be seen. While you're riding and you feel the bobbing, look down the fork tubes at the ground - you will see the upper portion of the bike bobbing, but the tires are of course firmly planted (and not weaving).
Also, do you have a top-case? If yes, that will affect the ride - take it off and go for another ride.