This is my fist post to st owners and im not happy it had to be in the technical section! regardles the story goes my bike has is an 05 ST1300 and has 80k bikes been great no signs of trouble. I come out to leave work one day and all she does is crank.....no fire. So i do the flooded starting procedure....no luck. Get the bike towed home and check fuses but there all good, everything is plugged tight, no FI light,batterys good, no wires broken off the fuse boxes. So i figure its a fuel pump and put a new pump in. NOTHING changed. frusterated. Ive been using the search feature and have only found a couple similar to mine and the problems wernt mine.....any suggestions?
No Fuel pump noise
- Thread starter JDM ST1300
- Start date
Blrfl
Natural Rider Enhancement
Some things to start with:
To get the obvious thing out of the way first, is the engine stop switch in the run position?
Does the FI light illuminate when the ignition is first turned on? Does it go out after a time or flash, even if the fuel pump doesn't run?
Does the ECM have any stored fault codes? Use this procedure to ask the ECM and then visit the list of fault codes to find out what they mean.
Have you checked the condition of the main stop and fuel cutoff relays? Does the fuel cutoff relay see 12V at the coil when you first turn on the ignition and put the stop switch in the run position?
--Mark
To get the obvious thing out of the way first, is the engine stop switch in the run position?
Does the FI light illuminate when the ignition is first turned on? Does it go out after a time or flash, even if the fuel pump doesn't run?
Does the ECM have any stored fault codes? Use this procedure to ask the ECM and then visit the list of fault codes to find out what they mean.
Have you checked the condition of the main stop and fuel cutoff relays? Does the fuel cutoff relay see 12V at the coil when you first turn on the ignition and put the stop switch in the run position?
--Mark
Your post states "No Fuel Pump Noise". Is this still the case, even with the new pump?
If so your problem is more likely electrical supply rather than the pump, so I'd be working back through the power supply for the pump, you should have 12V between the brown and green terminals of the pump power supply plug for a few seconds when the ignition is switched on.
If so your problem is more likely electrical supply rather than the pump, so I'd be working back through the power supply for the pump, you should have 12V between the brown and green terminals of the pump power supply plug for a few seconds when the ignition is switched on.
itchYour post states "No Fuel Pump Noise". Is this still the case, even with the new pump?
If so your problem is more likely electrical supply rather than the pump, so I'd be working back through the power supply for the pump, you should have 12V between the brown and green terminals of the pump power supply plug for a few seconds when the ignition is switched on.
This is very helpful because I have only swapped one of the relays which I believed was for the fuel pump. Would u happen to have a diagram showing what the relays are? i havent been out yet to check between the terminals but i will as soon as i can. Still no FI light of any kind and yes still no pump noise after the new pump. Deffinetly need some guidance in finding the main stop and fuel cutoff relays
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8 relays are found under the left side panel where the fuses are also found. There are 8 relays there with 4 inboard in a single file line and 4 outboard mounted two by two. The engine stop relay is in the line of 4, the third one in line if starting #1 toward the front and #4 at the rear. The main stop relay is the forward most of the outside two and the fuel cutoff is the rearmost of the outside two. The relays are mounted like a puzzle with the outer ones removed in order to get to the inner ones. All the relays that look the same can be interchanged to check a known good one with a suspect one.
Hi Beam, Lo Beam, Engine Stop, Turn Signal
Main Screen, Fan Motors
Main Stop, Fuel Cutoff
Unless you are getting the FI light for a few seconds when you turn the key ON the fuel pump will not be energized. That's one reason to check the kill switch either for it being OFF inadvertently or for a bad ground. I had a problem once were the fuel pump would not come on and it was a bad ground connector. Use the troubleshooting sequence in post #3 to start with.
Hi Beam, Lo Beam, Engine Stop, Turn Signal
Main Screen, Fan Motors
Main Stop, Fuel Cutoff
Unless you are getting the FI light for a few seconds when you turn the key ON the fuel pump will not be energized. That's one reason to check the kill switch either for it being OFF inadvertently or for a bad ground. I had a problem once were the fuel pump would not come on and it was a bad ground connector. Use the troubleshooting sequence in post #3 to start with.
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Hope this helps
Ok so that was extremely help full sorry it's taken me so long to get these switched but I did and got no good results even though oddly one of my relays quit clicking after all the swapping.... Anyway I also checked for voltage at the fuel pump plug and I'm getting 10v on one prong and 0v on the other so still no juice to the pump so I figure next step is maybe I have a bad ground so I ran a jumper from the ground on top on the pump to the frame but still no power to the pump. So that only leaves the tilt sensor and the ECM correct? The frustration builds...
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Did you take the run/ stop switch apart and clean it? Good luck.....ff
if the run switch was off the bike wouldent crank. The bike cranks fine just no power getting to the fuel pump.
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Strip off the left side fairing and locate the white 24 pin connector. Examine it for signs of over temperature damaged wires, particularly the solid green one. Form a jumper wire and jump the green one on the front side of the connector to the bare frame. Check that.
. Is this the connector ur talking about or this other bundle that's closer to the rad fan
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Reginald
cyclepoke
That's the one he's talking about. That should be mounted on the left side cowl where two clips are located. My dealer kept pushing it behind the radiator which is wrong and it get's filthy there. I don't see any fried wires from the picture. If there are no black burns on the connector at the ground (green wire), it's probably good. Clean that up so it doesn't fail and mount it on the left cowl between the clips when you replace the cowl; it'll stay much cleaner there.
Here's a link to the wiring diagram. https://www.st-owners.com/forums/showthread.php?90873-ST1300-Wiring-Schematic You can download the schematic for easier reading. Use this to trace your power issues. It's what I used to run my issues down and isolate the location of the fault.
For what it is worth, having gone thru this I placed 12v across the fuel input input after messing with codes ,wires,relays and chasing wires with continuity and grounds, fuel pump no noise, replaced, had noise buttoned up started right off. Benched tested old fuel pump no noise, blew compressed air thru it spinning the impeller for lack of better term, spinning the shaft, had noise with voltage. Would have worked back in the bike, who knows for I then destructively disassembled it to examine the cause. Found a bit of corrosion/gunk/discoloration where the brushes had sat across two sections of the commutator or so it appeared.
one day it worked the next it did not. good gas with additives as is my habit. Who knows why, I put it all down to keep it simple YMMV
after you replaced the FP have you applied voltage across it in front of all the stuff between the button and it?
one day it worked the next it did not. good gas with additives as is my habit. Who knows why, I put it all down to keep it simple YMMV
after you replaced the FP have you applied voltage across it in front of all the stuff between the button and it?
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. No I have not put voltage directly to the pump I figured swapping it with a new one would eliminate this all together. It would be my luck I got a bad pump.... Il try to get some voltage put through it tomorrow and report back.
Excellent suggestion. I didn't see anyone suggest checking fuses. Sorry, I don't know much about the bike's electrical system (yet) might something else happening suggest that the fuses are all good?
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It's the larger one with 24 wires, the 24 pin connector. The ground can be compromised further along in the harness as mine was (the connector and all wires looked good and tested with good continuity) but by jumping the green one to a known good ground before the connector I solved my problem of no power to the fuel pump. The jumper was just a piece of wire with a twisted, sharpened end I stuck into the white connector where the green wire exited. The fix was to splice into that green wire and take it to one of the bolts under the coil.. Is this the connector ur talking about or this other bundle that's closer to the rad fan
Attachments
BakerBoy
It's all small stuff.
I too would check for operation of the fuel pump outside of the bike, using a 12V supply.
Here's pdfruth's fix for the similar grounding problem (the contacts of that ground wire are too small, as is the wire through the connector; there have been a number of reported fried or scorched green ground wires at the connector):
Here's pdfruth's fix for the similar grounding problem (the contacts of that ground wire are too small, as is the wire through the connector; there have been a number of reported fried or scorched green ground wires at the connector):
Ok quick update this morning baker boy and ddudlin I will be trying your suggestions today. I did bench test the old pump and it did work so I know the problem wasent the pump.
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Giving this a bump as I am going thru the same problem. She was fine when I put her away last fall. Battery tender on. The second I turned the key I knew I was missing a noise... I have put 12 volts to the pump and it works. No voltage at the pump connector when I turn the key. I did a ground jumper at the big connector. No help. All the relays seem to be good. I'm in the process of getting more tupperware off and hoping to check the tip-over switch this evening or tomorrow morning. Was really hoping to get out for a ride this weekend. Oh well.
. Yes that is definitely bump worthy I'm still having issues planning on ordering some new relays. I'm having a very hard time accepting it's the tip over switch not looking forward to pulling all that Tupperware!