Notchy Steering Head Bearings

Joined
Aug 9, 2010
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Vernon BC Canada
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09 ST1300
Hi all, I was doing and oil change this evening when I had the bike on the center stand, I moved the handlebars and I can just detect a very slight notch in center of steering. can really only be felt if I hold the bars in my fingertips, and I know it would probablt be more noticeable with the forks and all weight off the triple tree. I haven't noticed any handling issues however. Bike has 82,000 km on it now, and I have never opened or lubed the head bearings since new.

1) Is this something that needs my immediate attention or will it most likely be able to wait until winter storage for replacement?

2) Should I get a headstock bearing race installer/removal tool set or is it just as easy with punches?

3) I would only consider replacing with oem balls as I'm not sure I'm interested in fussing with the aftermarket tapered rollers.

Thoughts?
 

970mike

Mike Brown
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Replacing those steering head bearings is not that bad of a job, I went with tapered bearings and they were not to hard to install. If yours are not like new it is time to replace all you need to decide is stock or tapered. Good luck.
 

Bigmak96

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I predict that everyone that responds will agree with Mike. The tapered roller bearings are the answer. There may even be a write up on the procedure.
 

Bigmak96

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4 minutes for a link,,,good job caldercay!!
 

ST Gui

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I have no input as to whether you should go with tapered- or stay with ball bearing. Other than to say my buddy had tapered bearing put in his Wing at 50K miles, and was very happy with the improved handling. I don't know that the original bearings were particularly bad. He had been wanting to do that mod for some time.

The only steering head bearings I ever replaced were on my 750-4. I just used a punch to drive the races out of the frame and a chisel to lift the bottom inner race of the steering stem. I use a socket and a block of wood and a rubber mallet to set the new races. It was fun trying to load the ball bearings into the lower races. Then i realized that gooping them up with grease would get it together. Shade tree sure. But the installation was clean. The process was much quicker than removing the forks etc.

A proper tool set might be required for the ST I dunno. I think there is one available for loan somewhere. If not maybe Shade-Tree is good enough for the ST.

It may be heresy on my part but if you can barely feel the detent you might be able to get by until it's time to hibernate the bike. I put a lot of miles on my 7.5 from when I first noticed the notch to when I got around to fixing it. Maybe somebody else can better speak to that.
 

BakerBoy

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It will go a long time with notchy bearings...it could have been that way for years already. But when they get bad enough, they'll affect smooth steering through the twisties. If you've the chance, replace them, but don't worry that they'll suddenly make the bike inoperable.
 

Bigmak96

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Good point John,,a winter job to be sure!
 
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gsforster
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It will go a long time with notchy bearings...it could have been that way for years already. But when they get bad enough, they'll affect smooth steering through the twisties. If you've the chance, replace them, but don't worry that they'll suddenly make the bike inoperable.
Ah there's the sweet music to my ears that I wanted to hear!! I'll slate this one in as a winter project. It's not that I'm not up to the task, just that I would rather ride for the rest if the season and not get into this tear down now. I suppose the worst it will do other than negatively affect handling is wreck the already shot bearings. Thanks for the replies!!
 
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While we are on this subject, has anyone considered using Honda Moly 60 to lube the steering bearings, whether ball or tapered? Moly is designed to withstand the severe loads on the faces of the spline gear teeth on the final drive, so it seems it should be a good choice for protection of the steering bearings and races too. Thoughts on that?
 

Mark

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John O has a kit of tools he will send to you (for postage/handling both ways); it has all the tools you'll need to do the job.
 

dduelin

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Hi all, I was doing and oil change this evening when I had the bike on the center stand, I moved the handlebars and I can just detect a very slight notch in center of steering. can really only be felt if I hold the bars in my fingertips, and I know it would probablt be more noticeable with the forks and all weight off the triple tree. I haven't noticed any handling issues however. Bike has 82,000 km on it now, and I have never opened or lubed the head bearings since new.

1) Is this something that needs my immediate attention or will it most likely be able to wait until winter storage for replacement?

2) Should I get a headstock bearing race installer/removal tool set or is it just as easy with punches?

3) I would only consider replacing with oem balls as I'm not sure I'm interested in fussing with the aftermarket tapered rollers.

Thoughts?
I got into replacing mine when I was doing a fork oil change at 96,000 miles. While the forks, wheel, etc. were out I happened to bump a bar end and noticed the handlebars self-centered after the bump. Upon a closer inspection there was a slight detent in the straight ahead position. I had checked for this now and then and the mass of the forks and wheel always covered up the detent. So if you can feel a dent in the races with the forks assembled I'd fix it now but that's just me. We don't have a winter lay-up down here.

I pretty much did what previous posters covered. I knocked out the races in the head stock with a long drift. It was tap tap and they were out. Squatting under the bike and knocking out the top one took a moment longer because it was awkward.

Because I had read that it was fairly difficult for a DIYer to get the proper preload on the OEM type caged ball bearings and that tapered roller bearings were more tolerant of shade tree mechanic efforts I went with the latter. The difference in cost isn't much when you look at how often this job needs to be done.

I went to Harbor Freight or Northern Tool with the old races and purchased a couple of big cheap sockets to tap in the new races. First problem when the new All Balls bearings arrived. The sockets did not exactly match the new races. The OEM races are not as tall and have a larger flat area to press against and the 33 or 36 mm sockets I purchased just fit inside the taller races on the tapered bearings and I was not able to use them so I broke out a set of bronze drifts and punches which took a little longer to use. Again, coming at the top one from underneath was a bit awkward but using drifts to drive in the new races was not a problem.

Setting up the preload was hit and miss but accomplished to the service manual specs as measured with my fish scale. I had to take the top bridge apart a few times but basically the lock nut is tightened to torque spec to seat the bearings and then I had to back it off to just taking up finger tight or basically no torque at all. When the top bridge was tightened down with the top nut to it's high torque the results finally met Honda spec for pull on a fork tube. I used a waterproof marine wheel bearing grease to pack the bearings.

That was almost exactly 50,000 miles ago and I check the races for self-centering and play every 15,000 or so when I change the fork oil. There has been none to date.

A side benefit of replacing the bearings in my bike was the high speed Pan Weave was almost eliminated. it shows up now and then but the onset is near top speed instead of 110 to 115 as it was before. I've did some other suspension work and changed tire brands too so I can't prove it was the bearings but I think the OEM brinelled bearing race was a big part of it. Caged rollers are great, very high quality feel, when set up right but when any wear or play allows hammering and there is a tremendous amount of pressure brought to bear on a tiny metal to metal area of contact between ball and race and a dent is the result. Tapered rollers have a much greater surface area to absorb the hammering load.

This is not a hard job if you are somewhat experienced with replacing and preloading wheel bearings.
 
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