Odd rear brake question on ST1300

Igofar

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Joined
Jan 8, 2011
Messages
7,121
Location
Arizona
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2023 Honda CT125A
While a dry climate may help keeping the outside of the SMC (under the rubber boot) clean, there are several other things that can cause your SMC to fail, such as heat, not flushing or bleeding the system correctly, and yearly, instead of every two years, neglect on service stuff etc.
Lack of use and sitting in a garage are your SMC's worst nightmare.
Get out and ride that bike, and flush the system out often, and you'll not have any issues.
:bk13:
 
Joined
Dec 7, 2012
Messages
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Location
pootugaal, netherlands
Hi,

This struck me as odd and I could not locate a similar post.

On center stand, the rear wheel rotates by hand.
When I apply the rear brake (sitting in garage), the rear wheel stops. (ok, normal so far)
When I release the rear brake, the rear wheel stays locked. I have to crack open the rear bleed screw/then close and the rear wheel rotates again.

I bled all brakes per other posts in the specific order, still this occurs?

Thoughts?

Thanks,
Andrew
Too much fluid in the rear reservoir?
It then seizes the rear brakes.
replaced your rear pads?
 
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islandstar
Joined
Jun 9, 2008
Messages
133
Location
Sparks, NV
Bike
2005 ST1300
You mentioned “
  • Check rear caliper bracket for possible "warpage”..... I would love to have that further expanded, as I “think “ I have come across this on my 2001 1100 I am currently ripping her down to do a complete flush, change of wearables to it and have been stopped by 1 (ONE) single bolt!
    Specifically the one that holds the rear calliper onto the swing arm... I have been BEATING this and have now got it undone but cannot remove it and yes I am now trying to remove the left exhaust, as I cannot physically pull it back far enough to allow the calliper bracket to move so I can remove the rear wheel!
    Soooo once I get the exhaust off the left side I will be able to put a puller or my slide hammer on the bolt to pull it out & replaced! It’s destroyed
  • Hence this is why I would like to know how to check that bracket for warpage!

  • Sorry I didn’t mean to hijack the thread to 1100s it’s just the bracket is the only thing else I can think of
Photo of said "warpage"
 

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Igofar

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Messages
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Location
Arizona
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2023 Honda CT125A
I don't think "warpage" would be the correct term for the damage shown.
The short inboard arm of the bracket does not have the support like the solid outboard side does.
The pressure everytime the brake is applied (or SMC drags) starts wearing down the metal, allowing the clip to move and twist, causing the rear brakes to drag and make noise.
 
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OP
islandstar
Joined
Jun 9, 2008
Messages
133
Location
Sparks, NV
Bike
2005 ST1300
Follow up post: see photos
  • New SMC arrived and installed.
  • Brake bleeding procedure completed.
  • New spark plugs gapped to .034 and installation shortly.
  • Missing upper collar on upper fork SMC mount.
Photo: Installed new collar inside fork (somehow I was missing this vital part)
  • 20200912_131820.jpg

Photo: Recommended spark plugs to be installed shortly
  • 20200912_132407.jpg

Photo: Using jack stand to adjust SMC to 15 degrees (thanks for the tip Larry!)
  • 20200912_160121.jpg

Photo: View of PCV from top, after fuel tank was lifted and right side access panel to attach bleeder hose and crack bleeder open after tilting the SMC. No need to remove right cowl panel.
  • 20200912_144056.jpg

Photo: Brake fluid drain hose path connected to PCV
  • 20200912_144045.jpg
 
Last edited:
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