Oh no, bearing issue

Might want to consider a better load carrying bearing than stock. A good replacement is the Enduro. It has almost double the static load capacity as the stock Koyo or Timken. Many of the aftermarket "no name" bearings won't even have the load capacity of the stock Koyo. Enduro 6905 2RS bearings can be had for $13-15 each.
 
Last edited:
Already have stock replacements on the way... Wish I had seen your posts sooner... I guess I'll use after-market bearings the next time. Anyhow, I need help!!!! Pic 1 shows the piece that has the bad bearings. Do I whack it from the side showing? I whacked it a couple of times and all it seemed to do was make the bearings rougher to turn. Do I whack it harder? Do I need to worry about it ruining the collar? ARRRGGGGHHHH!!!! Pic 2 shows the dampers. I've heard (here of course) that the indication that they need changing is the outside holes on the bigger dampers becoming ellipses. I do have a new set of dampers on the way, but I think I'll keep these in for a while (at least for this rear tire).... Help a poor dumb sucker out!!!! :banghead:
:cool:
 

Attachments

  • 0412072048.jpg
    0412072048.jpg
    309.2 KB · Views: 80
  • 0412072049.jpg
    0412072049.jpg
    261.6 KB · Views: 70
I'm working from memory here (not always a good idea). I believe the bearings are wacked out from the back side, the side with the rubber dampeners. Look in your repair manual, it should show the correct side to pound on.
 
Turn the wheel over...
If you just whack at them from the side they are on you simple beat them to a pulp without getting them out...

You have to work at catching the lip of the bearing from the other side off the wheel from where they are sitting.
Catching the lip is not easy but, if your patience is good you'll find the lip sooner or later.

Mark
 
I too am trying to get some bearings in-hand before I replace my rear tire (which is looking kinda bald right now... :neutral: )

I saw the reference to CBR bearings in San Diego and got a quote - the 6905RS bearings from NSK he's offering are $16.95 a pop. While I'm not against that, I'm also more interested in finding a local source...

So, any San Francisco area folks know of a bearing supply place around here that I could find these at?
 
I ain't gonna liST the others, but this sounds like...

YET ANOTHER REASON TO KEEP THE 1100!!!! <ducking and dodging!> ;^)

Oh, yeah, I changed out the left rear bearing on STick at about 89,000 miles. Only _half_ the balls were missing. ;^)

Prolly ought'a check'em again as she's nearly doubled that now.
 
sbixby said:
...So, any San Francisco area folks know of a bearing supply place around here that I could find these at?
Click to expand...
I'm not from there, but here (Montgomery, AL), there were a dozen or so Industrial type places that sold bearings in the Yellow Pages - under bearings... And then again there is always the internet - I understand that you can also find them here. :D
:cool:
 
Well, tonight I took my rear wheel off. Besides breaking the rt muffler clamp bolts off in the nuts. My flange bearings were bad at 11,312 miles. I'm just going to take final driven flange set into dealer to see if they will just replace it under warranty like that. If not, I'll just replace them with some better bearings. I'll take Don's advice and call CBR.
 
My ST is still a baby, only 3,000 km but in the last week or so it has developed an intermittent rubber squeak like sound that sounds like it is coming from up front. For a day or so it went from a squeak to a steady squeal. Thinking front wheel bearing I parked the bike and took it into the dealer for them to test ride. Ya ya, you know what happened next …. not a sound. At least they didn’t charge me anything but the cycle is starting to repeat its self. From time to time I hear a faint rubber squeak like sound. I know it is not breaks as it continues even under breaking. I believe it is not a suspension squeak as it does not do it when the suspension is loaded in a parked position or going relatively slow over even rough ground. I can’t see it being a fairing squeak but?? The only thing I can think of is the front wheel bearings but should the hub not be getting hot if the hearings are going bad? Or is that only when they get very bad?
 
Each time I loosen those mufller clamps to change a tire, I shoot them with WD40 about 1/2 hour before I get to that step in the procedure. Course I change tires a little more often than most also(thrid rear tire this year), but the bolts loosen fairly easy.
 
After some investigation into the bolts breaking off on the muffler clamp, it seriously looks like they were cross threaded. No signs of any corrosion, but the threads on the nuts were pretty bad.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom