Overheating leaking water under the carb

mad max

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Mar 21, 2014
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uk london
Hi my st 1100 off the road because it’s leaking coolant under the carbs I have taken the carbs off, but I can’t take this thing off I have taking the 2bolt but off it won’t come out so I can replace the o ring
 

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there's another bolt down below in a hard to access location that holds that pipe with the nipple in place. When I did my work in that area I didn't remove the part you're asking about, so I can't give better specifics of the mechanics involved, but it gets discussed here occasionally. Look straight down on the front of the pipe with the nipple and I think you'll see a bolt head, but the clearance is very small to access it.
 
While you are in there you should also replace the o-rings and small elbows and hoses. These are a known leak prone problem and will need attention after some years.
 
dwalby said:
there's another bolt down below in a hard to access location that holds that pipe with the nipple in place. When I did my work in that area I didn't remove the part you're asking about, so I can't give better specifics of the mechanics involved, but it gets discussed here occasionally. Look straight down on the front of the pipe with the nipple and I think you'll see a bolt head, but the clearance is very small to access it.
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thank you i can see the bolt there is no space to the bolt out !
 
It can be done, but its a bit tricky, hopefully someone who has done it will see this thread and can give advice as to the best way to get it out of there, and then put it back in when you're done.

BTW, I see coolant in your picture around the item in question, was that the source of your original coolant leak, or did that leak out after you removed the two bolts?

As bdalameda mentioned, be sure to replace the other hoses/elbows/O-rings while you're in there. Those are typically the most common source of leaks under the carbs.
 
That cover was a bear to get off. I finally got it but it was some time ago, so I don't remember any tips for either that, or the bolt.
 
now that I think about it, I think I remember somebody saying that you can't get the bolt out, but you can loosen it just enough so that you can wiggle the parts enough to get that pipe out of the upper housing.

Dean, does that sound familiar to you??

edit: posted in sync with John's latest post.

John, does that agree with your experience?
 
This is from "Coolant Hoses and Timing Belt" article in ST-Riders.

Coolant Hoses & Timing Belt ( ST1100 ) *

Coolant Hoses & Timing Belt ( ST1100 ) *
www.st-riders.net

ST1100 Carbs and Cooling Hoses

koczarski.com koczarski.com

Tip #2: It isn't possible to remove the water pipe from the engine, because a bolt through a mounting tab can't be taken out unless the timing belt rear housing is removed. But an open end wrench can loosen this bolt, allowing the pipe to pivot around this bolt. After removal of the bolts securing the water cover, it can be pulled off the water pipe for seal replacement.

Tip #3: I used silicone grease on the water pipe seal to facilitate assembly. I also used it on all the hose connections for the same reason. Some of the hoses are a tight fit onto their fittings, especially the two main radiator hoses, and I didn't want to force things and perhaps damage the radiator. For the same reason, I cut the old hoses off the radiator, since they were really stuck in place.
 
dwalby said:
John, does that agree with your experience?
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IIRC, I was unable to loosen the bolt on the Water Pipe initially and was in a hurry so did the deed with a bit of judicious prying. Penetrant and a bit of heat (and time) would have probably worked. I did take that bolt out and replaced it when I did my first timing belt R&R (I’d damaged the hex head flats during the coolant hoses R&R). It’s easy to get to then.
 
dwalby said:
now that I think about it, I think I remember somebody saying that you can't get the bolt out, but you can loosen it just enough so that you can wiggle the parts enough to get that pipe out of the upper housing.
Click to expand...
That's my recollection. Open-end wrench to get in there.
I did cooling systems twice in the last few years, and I do not recall any struggle other than getting at the bolt and turning it just a bit with each try. Maybe a rachet box wrench would work but it would need to stay put until tightening and you'd need to be able to switch the drive direction while in place.
 
dwalby said:
now that I think about it, I think I remember somebody saying that you can't get the bolt out, but you can loosen it just enough so that you can wiggle the parts enough to get that pipe out of the upper housing.

Dean, does that sound familiar to you??
Click to expand...
Maybe. Vaguely. All I remember is that I was eventually able to get a new o-ring in there. And probably didn't really need to.
 
dwalby said:
It can be done, but its a bit tricky, hopefully someone who has done it will see this thread and can give advice as to the best way to get it out of there, and then put it back in when you're done.

BTW, I see coolant in your picture around the item in question, was that the source of your original coolant leak, or did that leak out after you removed the two bolts?

As bdalameda mentioned, be sure to replace the other hoses/elbows/O-rings while you're in there. Those are typically the most common source of leaks under the carbs.
[/QU
yes Coolant was leaking from this area the elbows are easy to remove
Click to expand...
 
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