peneske shock set up

Joined
Apr 23, 2006
Messages
152
Location
Dutchess County, NY
I have a peneske double clicker on my thirteen and weight about 200 pounds. Pre load is set correctly but Im not convinced I have the compression and rebound right and looking for a little help. I guess most of my riding is between 60 and 90 mph with some aggressive back road riding. Not race pace but aggressive street

how many clicks in from full hard on both compression and rebound. I'm open to some suggestions to get me close and will take it from there.
thanks in advance
 
I'm not sure how helpful this will be, as I have the triple-clicker. These are the settings that I have found to work best for me. High Speed compression = 5 clicks out from full in; Low Speed compression = 11 clicks out from full in for canyons or 12 clicks for highways when unloaded; Rebound = 7 clicks out from full in for canyons, 8 for streets and highways. Adjusting the shock when adding a pillion or luggage is easy: turn the High Speed adjuster one click clockwise for every 100 pounds of added weight.

Here's how to tell if you have your shock damping is set right. Find a set of corners that you feel comfortable riding. Having bumps and dips in the corners is a "must".

High Speed compression damping controls the shock's spring when it is compressed very quickly. It has nothing to do with your bike's speed. If you have High Speed damping to adjust, find a sharp bump or square-edged irregularity in the pavement. Too soft and you'll get a "floating" feeling. Too hard and the sharp bump may lift you from your seat.

To adjust High Speed damping, look for the reservoir near the top of the shock, or one end of the remote reservoir. You will need a small crescent wrench to tun the larger of the two nuts. See your Penske manual for a picture of this. Set your High Speed damping half way through its range. Ride through the corners. Adjust the damper progressively harder until the bump jars you when you go over it. Back off one click and try the bump again. Continuing to back off damping one click at a time. Clockwise = more damping. Counterclockwise = less. Five or six clicks out from full in should be about right.

Low Speed compression damping controls the shock's spring when it is compressed normally. Too soft and you'll get a "sliding" feeling when moving through corners. This almost feels like your front tire pressure is too low. Too hard and the rear end feels "skittish" over slight bumps.

To adjust Low Speed damping, start half way through its adjustment range. Look for the reservoir near the top of the shock, or one end of the remote reservoir. You will be able to turn the smaller knob with your fingers. See your Penske manual for a picture of this. Ride through the corners. If the bike feels twitchy (bouncing on the roadway) in the side-to-side transitions, reduce the Low Speed compression damping. If it pitches up and down in a corner, increase Low Speed damping. Adjust up or down one click at a time. Go through the same corners and make adjustments until your bike feels right. Then take to the freeway. Make sure that when you hit bumps that you are not jarred. If you are, back off one click and try it again. Suspension setting are a compromise. You can always make adjustments again to suit your road.

Once you have the Low Speed and High Speed damping set, stiffen the High Speed only by one click for each 100 pounds (50 Kg) of extra passenger or storage weight. The High Speed setting controls the Low Speed setting too, so no other adjustment is needed. When carrying less, dial back to your normal High Speed damping value.

Rebound damping controls how quickly the shock's spring is able to return to its normal, compressed length. Too soft and you'll get a "wallowing" feeling when exiting corners. Too hard and the rear wheel may come off the ground in repetitive (stutter) bumps. Ride through the corners. If you feel the rear end getting shorter and shorter, the damping is too great; back off and try again. If the rear end feels like it wants to throw you into the air at the peak of the bump, add damping,

To adjust Rebound, start half way through its adjustment range. Look for the red-colored, toothed wheel near the bottom of the shock. Moving the wheel to the right (facing the bike from the right side) provides more damping; to the left, less. With some effort, one can turn the wheel with one finger. You may need a lever though. I use a flat bladed screwdriver wrapped in a rag. Take your bike off the stands. While you are mounted, sit down hard on the seat, compressing the shock spring. Look in your rear-view mirror and watch the bike's rear end. Stand on the ground to release the shock's load. Set the Rebound so that it takes about one second to return to the unladen height. Take your bike out for a test ride as before. Adjust as suggested above.

Marshal
 
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im within one click with the compression dampening so i must be pretty close. Thanks for the reassurance

What about the rebound dampening
 
im within one click with the compression dampening so i must be pretty close. Thanks for the reassurance

What about the rebound dampening
Bryan:

I've edited thread #2 to provide all of the info in one place. The settings are not exactly what I said before: I made changes and did not record them. Sorry. The current values are: High Speed compression = 5 clicks out from full in; Low Speed compression = 11 clicks out from full in for canyons or 12 clicks for highways when unloaded and 9 clicks for fully loaded; Rebound = 7 clicks out from full in for canyons, 8 for streets and highways. I'd guess that you have Low Speed compression and Rebound. 7 clicks of Low is about one-half the way to full out.

The difference in our numbers may be due to the overlapping nature of the High-Speed and Low-Speed damping on my Penske shock (8987). Yours does not have this situation as you have only Low Speed compression damping. I went one click softer on High-Speed, which required my Low-Speed damping to be adjusted several clicks harder. If your compression-side values were close to what I stated before, they should be good.

Cheers,

Marshal
 
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Guess I'd better break down and get one, any suggestions on where?
 
Marshall:

I've noticed that when you turn the low speed adjuster it also turns the high speed (or vice versa). Are you supposed to hold one when turning the other or let them turn as a unit? In other words, is on a "sub-circuit/fine adjustment" of the other.

That make any sense?

Pete
 
Marshall:

I've noticed that when you turn the low speed adjuster it also turns the high speed (or vice versa). Are you supposed to hold one when turning the other or let them turn as a unit? In other words, is on a "sub-circuit/fine adjustment" of the other.

That make any sense?

Pete
Hi, Pete:

You're right: the High- and Low-speed compression damping circuits influence one another. Penske calls this "cross-talk". Like you, I like to think of the High-Speed adjustment as "Coarse" and the Low-Speed adjustment as "Fine" tuning. That's not literally true, but it's easier for me to understand that way.

While it's true that when the High-Speed adjuster is moved, the Low-Speed adjuster moves with it, the opposite is not . Also, holding the Low-Speed adjuster knob while adjusting the High-Speed nut might help, but it would not be enough to return the Low-Speed damping to where it was prior to the move. For example: I recently went one click softer on the High Speed side. I had to go four clicks harder on the Low-Speed damping to get Low back to where it was before that move. Just holding the Low-Speed knob while I turned the High-Speed nut would have left me three clicks too soft on Low.

According to the Penske manual, page 18: "One of the most important things to know about these [High- and Low-Speed] adjusters is their relative position to one another. If for instance you have the low speed set at 25 to 30 clicks (soft), the range of high speed will be lessened. Or in the opposite direction, if high speed is set to 0 [or] 1 (off soft), the low speed adjustment will be lessened." In other words, at full soft for both the Low- and High-Speed circuits, there is little in the way of cross-talk, but the farther one gets toward the middle of both circuits' adjustment range, the greater the cross-talk. See the bottom of page 18 for graphs of the respective circuit's damping curves.

The next paragraph on page 18 then states: "Also, when making a big adjustment in high or low speed, the change will affect the other in a small percentage. As an example, the high speed is set at (+4) and the low speed is set at (-6). Now you want to set the low speed to (-2), this will also increase a percentage of the high speed force figure. By dropping the high speed from (+4) to (+3) would compensate for this low speed change so the overall "damper curve" would remain intact.." In essence, one click of High-Speed adjustment offsets four clicks of Low-Speed damping in this case. That's where I am in my adjustment range as well.

Marshal
 
Thank you Doctor. Great explanation. I have the Sport Shock on my ST but I do have the triple adjuster on my KTM Duke II which is the bike I ride the hardest and therefore I try to get the suspension on it "dialed in" the best. After all, all I've got is 53 HP to work with so to pester sport bikes in the mountains my handling has to be spot on.

I just got my Marchesini wheels for it yesterday. Italian works of art in aluminum. Incredible workmanship!
 
KTM Duke is a neat bike. With the new wheels it should be outstanding.

BTW: how'd you know that I have my PhD?

Marshal
 
KTM Duke is a neat bike. With the new wheels it should be outstanding.

BTW: how'd you know that I have my PhD?

Marshal

Saw your testimonal about something or other somewhere on the web. Referred to you as "Dr". Didn't figure there were two Marshal Mercers riding ST1300's.

Phd - I'm impressed. What/where did you get your PhD?

KTM Duke - it's amazing what you can do with 53 hp in the north GA twisties if you ride the snot out of it. My best friend and I both have one.
 
Saw your testimonal about something or other somewhere on the web. Referred to you as "Dr". Didn't figure there were two Marshal Mercers riding ST1300's.

Phd - I'm impressed. What/where did you get your PhD?

KTM Duke - it's amazing what you can do with 53 hp in the north GA twisties if you ride the snot out of it. My best friend and I both have one.
Hi, Pete:

Not sure where you saw my name. It could have been on the Race Tech website; I do have a testimonial up there. If you are into statistics or database programming you might also have seen it on the web for those topics. I've also written some papers on Organization Theory and certain aspects of economic theory, and have been cited by other authors, so maybe there.

I took my doc with Claremont Graduate University in Claremont, California, graduating in 1993. Claremont is where management theorist Peter Drucker taught until his death. Along with the Keck Graduate Institute, CGU is part of the Claremont Colleges: Scripps; Pomona; Claremont-McKenna; Pitzer; Harvey Mudd.

You're right: 53 HP is plenty for nearly everything in the twisties. I have a short inseam, so a KTM is out of the question. I even have trouble mounting a KLR for cryin' out loud!

Have a good one,

Marshal
 
Hi, Pete:

Not sure where you saw my name. It could have been on the Race Tech website; I do have a testimonial up there. If you are into statistics or database programming you might also have seen it on the web for those topics.

I believe RaceTech is where I saw "Dr. Marshal Mercer".

Very impressive academic work. I took a course in "Stochastic Methods" when I was at Ga Tech and it blew me away. Made a "D" in it of which I am very proud. Got it behind me.

You have all of my respect.

Pete

Rule #1 of ST-Owners.com - All postings are subject to going off on unrelated tangents.
 
WARNING: a random chance of humor ahead!

Some think of me as stochastic. They are probably right. :D

Marshal
 
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