Pitted front fork tubes damaging seals

[Newf]

Hey all, Newfie Newbie here from the Far East of Canada (Newfoundland). Took bike in to local dealer last week to have hard hitting front forks looked at. Was told the fork tubes are pitted and damaging the seals. NOT LEAKING YET! Question to you all, will I have to re-lace the tubes or can I clean up the pitted section? How difficult a repair job to replace fork tubes at home? Handy when givin great directions but I’m not mechanic!
Thoughts? Btw got a lot of ***** looks driving bike down to local dealership at 0 degrees Celsius! Winter here in Newfoundland.

Newf

 

[nicksacco]

Hi.
You've definitely had your share of snow up there - that's for sure!
I'll include @Igofar in this thread as he's done tons of work on STs.
Kindly post some good pics of the pitting to show how bad and location and hopefully we can get you some answers.

 

[STFlips]

Hey Newf, welcome aboard the site. You will get lots of great advice and info here. I'm pretty sure the ST13 has protection over the fork tubes like the ST11 does, and they are usually hard chromed, so am a little surprised by the dealer comments, especially if they are not leaking. Hard hitting forks could mean you are out of oil perhaps (would explain the no leaks, lol)?
As nickasso says, post some up close photos of the "damaged" areas to give us all a better idea of what you are facing.

PS We have a big event in your neck of the woods this summer, check out the thread 2022-The First Rolling RockSTOC!

 

[RaYzerman]

Minor pitting can be polished out. Best done with the forks off the bike, if raised and rough, carefully file them flush with the tube. Polish with crocus cloth, which is about 900 grit, or similar sandpaper. Check out some YouTube videos.
I don't know what you mean by hard hitting forks... if higher mileage, time for a refresh with new bushings and seals, and proper cleaning. Then fresh oil and the damping will all work like new.

 

[Bmacleod]

Couple of things first. Your pics are of an st1300 but your post is in the ST1100 tech section. Not a big deal. Other than possibly the antidive and the internals, the pitting issue would be the same, either way. As to the issue of the hard ride, are you stating that the ride is harsh/stiff, with little compression or are the forks bottoming out, as in soft with little compression. I ask because that is 2 different things with different ways of fixing.
Pictures would help. As has been stated, minor pitting can be polished out and if there is no leakage, you're good. Rust is a different story and if present it will tear out the seals. Depending on the mileage, it may be time for a refresh/rebuild of the forks, although, in my experience, the bushings are pretty durable and should last a long time. If you are not sure on the life of the fork oil you have in there now, I would at least pull the forks and refresh the oil, paying close attention to how much old stuff comes out of each tube. I would be looking for a big difference between the 2, although if very little came out of both, that would obviously not be good. Reinstall and align the forks and see how they are from there. It is a little work, but what else are you going to do in NFLD in February. There is lots of info here on how to do this yourself. You say your handy and that is all that is needed to do this.
Is this bike new to you?

 

[Larry Fine]

Check out super glue fork repairing. When I rebuilt the fork on my Nighthawk, I had some minor pitting, and some long-direction scoring. There was one major pit deep enough to show black, about 1/8" across.

I used a mashup of several methods I found. The important things are proper curing time and keeping the razor blade in line with the fork tube. It's strange to still see the pit, yet the surface is as smooth as glass.

 

[TMF]

Check out super glue fork repairing. When I rebuilt the fork on my Nighthawk, I had some minor pitting, and some long-direction scoring. There was one major pit deep enough to show black, about 1/8" across.

I used a mashup of several methods I found. The important things are proper curing time and keeping the razor blade in line with the fork tube. It's strange to still see the pit, yet the surface is as smooth as glass.

Many thanks for the fork pitting repair tip!

 

[Larry Fine]

Many thanks for the fork pitting repair tip!

You're welcome.

By keeping the blade in line, I mean that you should scrape around the circumference of the tube, and not top to bottom along it. That way, the blade won't flatten the surface of hardened glue across the pit.

 

[CYYJ]

See this post, it provides an overview of what is involved in overhauling ST 1300 front forks: ST1300 Front Fork Overhaul: An Illustrated Bibliography

Michael

 

[SMSW]

You can definitely fix your own forks. It is not very involved, tho you might have to make some jigs to hold the forks while you take them apart. Basically, pull the front wheel, fender, tie up calipers so no weight is on the hoses, loosen the top fork caps, then loosen the triple clamp bolts and they slide down and out. Disassemble the two legs, inspect and repair/replace bad parts, reassemble in reverse order.

 

[Larry Fine]

. . . loosen the top fork caps, then loosen the triple clamp bolts . . .

You should loosen the top triple clamp bolts, loosen the top fork caps, then then loosen the bottom triple clamp bolts.

 

[Newf]

Couple of things first. Your pics are of an st1300 but your post is in the ST1100 tech section. Not a big deal. Other than possibly the antidive and the internals, the pitting issue would be the same, either way. As to the issue of the hard ride, are you stating that the ride is harsh/stiff, with little compression or are the forks bottoming out, as in soft with little compression. I ask because that is 2 different things with different ways of fixing.
Pictures would help. As has been stated, minor pitting can be polished out and if there is no leakage, you're good. Rust is a different story and if present it will tear out the seals. Depending on the mileage, it may be time for a refresh/rebuild of the forks, although, in my experience, the bushings are pretty durable and should last a long time. If you are not sure on the life of the fork oil you have in there now, I would at least pull the forks and refresh the oil, paying close attention to how much old stuff comes out of each tube. I would be looking for a big difference between the 2, although if very little came out of both, that would obviously not be good. Reinstall and align the forks and see how they are from there. It is a little work, but what else are you going to do in NFLD in February. There is lots of info here on how to do this yourself. You say your handy and that is all that is needed to do this.
Is this bike new to you?

Sorry, should have given some more background information. Recently bought this bike back Oct/Nov 2021and drove it 600 km home. Found that the bike hit bumps hard on the ride home, appeared that the bike forks didn’t compress much if any. Definitely not bottoming out. Was told by seller that the fork seals were just service and new oil. I suspect too much oil may to the reason for the hard hitting, lack of compression. Work wasn’t done at a reputable shop. Took bike in last week to a local Honda dealer expecting to just need to remove some oil from the forks and that’s when I was informed of the pitting. No pictures were taken and I had the shop put the forks back together to figure out my next move. $1300 to replace the tubes parts and labor. I’m trying to assess if the tubes can be cleaned up and salvaged or if they definitely need to be replaced. Honda dealer here only wanted to replace tubes.

Purchased this bike with the understanding that it had 50 000kms and a new rear tire. Never really took notice of the mileage until the ride home when I realized that 50 000kms was actually 50 000 miles. A 30 000 km difference. Also determined that the back tire was far from new. Middle of the tire has a decent flat spot, Wasn’t impressed but buyer beware right! LOL. Paid $3300 for it and from what I can see that’s not a bad price still for a 2007 ST1300 even with 80 000kms.

 

[Newf]

Hi.
You've definitely had your share of snow up there - that's for sure!
I'll include @Igofar in this thread as he's done tons of work on STs.
Kindly post some good pics of the pitting to show how bad and location and hopefully we can get you some answers.

Actually my area of Newfoundland, the St. John’s area hasn’t seem much snow or cold weather at all this winter. Unusual to be into Feb and still see the grass. Temps unusually warm regularly and lots of rain and wind. Thanks for the welcome and looking forward to meeting and discussing anything ST1300 with the forum.

 

[Newf]

Hey Newf, welcome aboard the site. You will get lots of great advice and info here. I'm pretty sure the ST13 has protection over the fork tubes like the ST11 does, and they are usually hard chromed, so am a little surprised by the dealer comments, especially if they are not leaking. Hard hitting forks could mean you are out of oil perhaps (would explain the no leaks, lol)?
As nickasso says, post some up close photos of the "damaged" areas to give us all a better idea of what you are facing.

PS We have a big event in your neck of the woods this summer, check out the thread 2022-The First Rolling RockSTOC!

Didn’t get any pictures before dealer reassembled forks. Didn’t agree to get the work done there at a $1300 price. Will reassess once I get a better understanding of the repair.

 

[Newf]

Minor pitting can be polished out. Best done with the forks off the bike, if raised and rough, carefully file them flush with the tube. Polish with crocus cloth, which is about 900 grit, or similar sandpaper. Check out some YouTube videos.
I don't know what you mean by hard hitting forks... if higher mileage, time for a refresh with new bushings and seals, and proper cleaning. Then fresh oil and the damping will all work like new.

Hitting hard, I meant that the forks don’t seem to compress at all. It’s definitely not bottoming out. Supposedly the forks were recently serviced before I bought the bike back in Oct/Nov 2021. Seals and new oil was supposed to be done. I suspected that there was too much oil in the forks not allowing them to compress but instead hit hard.

 

[Jethro]

Did dealer totally dissassemble forks,or just look at pitting& give them back?They should have informed you of pitting before removal.Where on tubes is pitting/ scores?If you tackle the repair yourself,measure the amount of oil thar IS in each tube.Note order of internal assemblies. Check this site for posts as post #19 & maybe get a manual,or online manual via Europe.

 

[Heliredcat]

Hey all, Newfie Newbie here from the Far East of Canada (Newfoundland). Took bike in to local dealer last week to have hard hitting front forks looked at. Was told the fork tubes are pitted and damaging the seals. NOT LEAKING YET! Question to you all, will I have to re-lace the tubes or can I clean up the pitted section? How difficult a repair job to replace fork tubes at home? Handy when givin great directions but I’m not mechanic!
Thoughts? Btw got a lot of ***** looks driving bike down to local dealership at 0 degrees Celsius! Winter here in Newfoundland.

Newf

Try using #0000 steel wool ,takes a a bit of time to get rust off,I put some oil on the rust then went at it off and on for a couple of days and all the rust is gone,fork tubes are not hard to replace if the rust can't be removed, you can do it

 

[RaYzerman]

You should be able to look at the forks and see where the pitting is..... normally on the front face where stones, etc. would have hit it. If the rust is raised, then you need to clean it off and then use superfine sandpaper like a shoe-shine rag... so that is flush to the surface. If pitted below the surface and small, nothing else you likely need to do. If the pitting is above the lower triple clamp, you should clean that up to, but at least there is no functional problem.
At this point, you should rebuild the forks with new bushings and seals, new oil, since no one really knows what's in there. It can be a DIY job if you look into it.
We're all saying stuff without pics.... you could take one or two easy enough?

 

[Newf]

Did dealer totally dissassemble forks,or just look at pitting& give them back?They should have informed you of pitting before removal.Where on tubes is pitting/ scores?If you tackle the repair yourself,measure the amount of oil thar IS in each tube.Note order of internal assemblies. Check this site for posts as post #19 & maybe get a manual,or online manual via Europe.

They disassenbled the forks but put them back together when I wouldn’t agree to the price. Negotiated the price down a little and they wrote off the initial $150 1hr labor rate to look at the forks before reassembling them. I went in today to look at the forks to see what they were talking about to have a better idea of what I may have to tackle. Pitting is up high on the tubes but very heavy. Might be more than my skill level to clean up. Agreed to do the work and put a Sport Touring tire on the back for $1500 CAN. Not sure the cost of two tubes, seals, and fork oil plus the labor but this way I’m back in business, and I won’t have the bike in pieces cursing and swearing and dropping it for weeks until I get the desire to attempt it and finish the job. LOL. I only paid $3300 CAN for the 2007 ST1300 with 80 000kms so it is a hard swallow to pay almost have of the purchase price of the bike! LOL. Oh well…..

 

[Newf]

Now if I had some of you crafty folks close to me I’d gladly tackle this and when I screwed it up, I’d have someone reliable to keep me on track.