Police Switches ST 1100

[Martin Schneuer]

I found an Assembly in Aliexpress that is very similar than the one used in the Honda ST 1100 Police.
Please see attached link and picture
Plugs are different, but I believe this can be solved easily measuring with a tester which cable connects which knob.

When I buy to Aliexpress from Chile it takes about 3 weeks. As shipping I choose Ali Express Standard Shipping. If the package is lost, Aliexpress returns the payment.
I believe shipping time to the US could be better.

I just bought one since the emergency stop knob of my Assembly is very sensitive and has stopped by itself while I was riding, ...which is very dangerous.
I will disassemble the original Police Assembly and will try to repair it.
If somebody has done it, please let me know if I will find "surprises".
If not repairable I will try the Chinese Assembly.
For non ST1100 Police Versions it could be very interesting for users who want to add electrical farkles.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Universal-7-8-22mm-Motorcycle-Handlebar-Switches-Lamp-Headlight-Fog-Light-Power-Start-Kill-Switch-Assembly/32875078080.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.629976e04ehmGU&algo_pvid=124c2fee-200e-4d6d-ae49-8da9d783e3db&algo_expid=124c2fee-200e-4d6d-ae49-8da9d783e3db-27&btsid=823b030d-323a-4859-970d-2c8828fb93fd&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_5,searchweb201603_52

 

[Uncle Phil]

I have the police switches on all 3 (soon to be 4) of my ST1100s. Beware that it will hit the tank cover if you do not have risers.

 

[The Cheese]

The OEM switch has two 9 pin plugs along with a barrel plug. One is for the ad on switches and the other for the stock functions. The one in your link looks like it only has one 9 pin and a 4 pin, along with the barrel plug. I would not trust that it would function as needed. It certainly is cheaper than OEM tho.

I would start by buying a can of contact cleaner. Remove the two screws holding the two halves of the RH switch. Wrap a towel around the grip to catch the run off. Then spray the inside of the top half with cleaner while rocking the kill switch. They can get gummed up with dirt and old grease. The contact cleaner should help. Might as well do the other side too. Turn signals get hard to activate after awhile.

 

[Martin Schneuer]

The OEM switch has two 9 pin plugs along with a barrel plug. One is for the ad on switches and the other for the stock functions. The one in your link looks like it only has one 9 pin and a 4 pin, along with the barrel plug. I would not trust that it would function as needed. It certainly is cheaper than OEM tho.

I would start by buying a can of contact cleaner. Remove the two screws holding the two halves of the RH switch. Wrap a towel around the grip to catch the run off. Then spray the inside of the top half with cleaner while rocking the kill switch. They can get gummed up with dirt and old grease. The contact cleaner should help. Might as well do the other side too. Turn signals get hard to activate after awhile.

Thank you. I will follow your advice.

 

[Martin Schneuer]

I have the police switches on all 3 (soon to be 4) of my ST1100s. Beware that it will hit the tank cover if you do not have risers.

Mine is an original Police version that was converted to a standard ST1100 by previous owners, but maintained the RH Police Assembly.
I fully restored the bike and want to use some non used switches for heated grips and other farkles.

 

[Larry Fine]

I have the police switches on all 3 (soon to be 4) of my ST1100s.

Please tell me what you use each switch for.

 

[Martin Schneuer]

Please tell me what you use each switch for.

Larry, which one are you using?
I use switch 4 for Heated Grips and will use switch 5 for an Auxiliary Lights project. For both switches I installed Relais.
The following links are articles that could serve you. I also attach the Police Circuit Wiring diagram.
https://stwiki.notonthe.net/bin/view/ST13/PoliceSwitchInstallation

https://www.st-owners.com/forums/threads/st11-rh-switchgear-on-st13.49102/#post-634776

 

[ST Gui]

When using electrical contact cleaner chose one that's safe for plastics.

 

[SMSW]

There is no reason why you cannot do what you said - testing each terminal/wire in the plugs to make your own wiring diagram. You might have to reconfigure the connectors - check easternbeaver.com for their connectors and pins. While they are not cheap, their shipping charges might make the connectors cost more than your switch. Perhaps Aliexpress will have connectors that do what you want.

This is the first I've heard of Aliexpress - great resource.

 

[Larry Fine]

Larry, which one are you using?

I still have the original standard factory switch housing.

I'm wondering whether I want/need the extra switches.

 

[The Cheese]

My last bike had the police switch. Used the extras for aux lighting, turning on/off extra led lights on the rear and changing patterns on the leds. Left one or two open. I'm in progress of installing a police switch on my current 11. In addition to turning running lights and headlights on/off, I can activate hazard lights, my brake light, change patterns for the Whelen LIN3 and still have an open switch for future use.

 

[Uncle Phil]

Please tell me what you use each switch for.

Switch 1- Low Heat for Heated Grips (takes a little relay 'magic' since when 2 is on, 1 is on also)
Switch 2 - High Heat for Heated Grips
Switch 3 - Not User
Switch 4 - On/Off Heated Clothes
Switch 5 - 4 Way Flashers

 

[Larry Fine]

I'm trying to find out what the options are and where to find them.

I see options like ST1100 switch pod with headlight switch, a couple of different police switch pods, and a left-side switch pod.

I found one with the "ugly" kill switch. I would want to end up with a matched pair of pods.

 

[ST Gui]

Don't some of these police switch pods have a switch where a third or fourth position (if you count OFF) combines two or three functions such as OFF / Pos 1 function 1 / Pos 2 functions 1 and 2 / Pos 3 1+2+3 or similar? Like the car control head (at least the old Unitrol were you swipe the lever as far to the right as you need).

Is that an internal function of the police pod or just how you wire it to farkles.

 

[Uncle Phil]

On mine, when 2 is 'on', 1 & 2 are 'on', when 3 is 'on', 1 ,2 and 3 are 'on'.
That is by design in the switch.
As I said, with a little 'relay' trick, you can separate 1 from 2 easy enough.

 

[Martin Schneuer]

My last bike had the police switch. Used the extras for aux lighting, turning on/off extra led lights on the rear and changing patterns on the leds. Left one or two open. I'm in progress of installing a police switch on my current 11. In addition to turning running lights and headlights on/off, I can activate hazard lights, my brake light, change patterns for the Whelen LIN3 and still have an open switch for future use.

Please show a picture (or describe if you do not have pictures) here you connected each of your options and how you activate hazard lights.
What is "Whelen LIN3"?

 

[Martin Schneuer]

Switch 1- Low Heat for Heated Grips (takes a little relay 'magic' since when 2 is on, 1 is on also)
Switch 2 - High Heat for Heated Grips
Switch 3 - Not User
Switch 4 - On/Off Heated Clothes
Switch 5 - 4 Way Flashers

Please show a picture (or describe if you do not have pictures) here you connected each of your options.
Please also explain the "magic" of the relay trick to separate 1 and 2. I will appreciate it.

 

[The Cheese]

Please show a picture (or describe if you do not have pictures) here you connected each of your options and how you activate hazard lights.
What is "Whelen LIN3"?

The pic below is a Whelen LIN3. Its an additional brake light. Flashes very rapidly and is very bright. Has a bunch of flash patterns. With that said you can get a better idea by looking up videos of it. A video would give you a much better idea. A popular addition in the US. https://sirennet.com/store/product/whelen-lin3-linear-super-led-lighthead



Number 1 is the hazard lights and were easy. Pick a switch and feed power to one side of it. So keyed power was feed to the white wire. The green wire on the barrel connector was attached to a flasher, "X" terminal. Looks like the pic below. From the other terminal "L" run two wires out. One to the left side turn signal. That wire is Orange/Gray. The other goes to the right turn signal. Light Blue/Grey. May not be the most wise way to do it but I think it will work. https://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/turn-signal-flasher/novita-turn-signal-flasher/849393_739611_11714



Number 2 activates the brake lights. It just connects the two wires on the front brake light switch. White/Green and Yellow/Green.

Number 3 changes the flash patterns on the Whelen LIN3. Just run power to the solid green wire. The orange/black wire runs to the back of the bike and connects to the white/purple wire on the LIN3. Switch number 3 is momentary.

Number 4 is open.

Number 5 is open.

All the above is on the green additional plug. Diagram below.



Hope this helps.

 

[Uncle Phil]

Martin - I use the various 'switches' to fire relays instead of running high amps through the switch. First order of business is run a power wire to the switch to feed the side of the switch you are going to use. Then the output side of the switch fires a relay that provides the current to the desired device. On the 1-2, you have to have a SPDT relay and a SPST relay, IIRC. .

 

[Martin Schneuer]

Thank you Uncle Phi and The Cheese.l