Potential Bad Battery?

[jfheilman]

2007 ST1300A - 106,000 miles - YTZ14S Battery

I did not record the last time I changed the battery.

Today, as I was taking the bike for a short ride (it had been sitting in the garage for about 30 days, on a battery tender and started and idled at least two times during that period) I had, what appeared to be a battery issue.

I rode the bike a short distance to town, made two stops and then rode it about six miles to my preferred gas station. All three times, the bike was turned off.

After fueling the bike, I turned the key to start and the bike sort died and then started. I guess you could say the engine tried to turn over and did not and then did. The digital stuff all reset indicating that they experienced a loss of power.

Now, I should say that for the past year of so, when starting the bike, it has been sort of "hesitant" and maybe not as "spirited" as it use to be when I started it But since it always started and the battery tender always seemed to support the notion (by the way the lights flashed) that the battery was in good shape before and after the start, I was not concerned.

So, since I am getting old and not riding the bike every day like I use to, is the hesitant starting something that is normal? My memory says it is not but.....

Next question, is there anything besides a battery in decline that would exhibit the starting event.

I did measure the voltage using one of those "battery tender" voltmeters during starting and it dropped to less than 10 VDC during starting. After running for a few minutes, stopping and then measuring the voltage it was around 12.6 VDC

Thanks.

 

[ToddC]

Dirty switches. Take apart and clean the contacts. Lot cheaper than a new battery.
T

 

[Mark B]

Load test battery

 

[drrod]

I would say battery issue. In my experience what you are seeing is typically a battery on its way out.

 

[red one]

I was thinking my old battery was doing exactly like yours was a few years ago. My maintainer says battery went from yellow to green but it took longer and longer to charge to green. About 2 months later that battery failed....it was 9 years old. Check voltage and if its less than 12.3 I'd be looking for a new battery.

 

[dwalby]

I did measure the voltage using one of those "battery tender" voltmeters during starting and it dropped to less than 10 VDC during starting. After running for a few minutes, stopping and then measuring the voltage it was around 12.6 VDC

If you were measuring the voltage across the battery terminals, and not somewhere else in the circuit, then less than 10v during starting indicates the battery is weak, maybe not completely dead, but close. That would be consistent with your other symptoms.

no load battery voltage is meaningless, and confuses people into thinking the battery is actually OK.

 

[Steveguy]

I would say clean your battery cables.... And then attach them to a new battery!

 

[jfheilman]

Ok.... I see, a new battery seems to be in the cards as well as cleaning the battery terminals. Frankly, when it failed on the start at the gas station and the electronic things (you know time and mileage on to the two trip things when to 1200 and zero) I figured the battery was a little weak but will look at the terminals as well.

 

[bdalameda]

I would definitely check that your charging system is working. I does sound like the battery is not being maintained by the alternator. Check the voltage with the engine running - you should see around 14- 14.2 volts with the engine running even with a bad battery.

 

[Capital]

Had exact same symptoms (clock/trip odo resetting when starting). Changed battery. No problems since.

 

[jfheilman]

I would definitely check that your charging system is working. I does sound like the battery is not being maintained by the alternator. Check the voltage with the engine running - you should see around 14- 14.2 volts with the engine running even with a bad battery.

Yes I did that and the voltage indicated was about 14.1 volts just after started and idling for about a minute.

 

[Kevcules]

Ok.... I see, a new battery seems to be in the cards as well as cleaning the battery terminals. Frankly, when it failed on the start at the gas station and the electronic things (you know time and mileage on to the two trip things when to 1200 and zero) I figured the battery was a little weak but will look at the terminals as well.

My battery did similar when I went to use it for the first few times at the start of the season. It was on a tender most of it's hibernation and showed all good. It started the bike two times then wouldn't turn the engine over. Batteries show their true colors once under load. New battery cured all my issues.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Standard battery installation, in my opinion, should include;
- Clean all cable connections, and battery posts if the old battery is going back in. There is no point killing a new battery because of poor electrical connections.
- Test for a parasitic drain. There is no point killing a new battery because there is a drain on it.
- Test battery voltage with the engine running as a quick check to see if the alternator is working. There is no point killing a new battery because the charging system is malfunctioning.

 

[SMSW]

Ok.... I see, a new battery seems to be in the cards as well as cleaning the battery terminals.

Most gas stations will load test your battery for free. Charge it up, take it to your friendly service station and have it tested. This will answer most of the questions. I too think it is an ageing battery, but I prefer to have hard answers (when possible) before I spend my money.

 

[Pop-Pop]

I saved myself a lot of hassle and bought a maint free battery from honda. What a relief!

 

[Al Gully]

Volt meters work, and test what your alternator is putting out, but I wanted to know how many CCA amps I have left year after year In my batteries.
So I bought a BA 7 capacitance tester. Here is the site below for the BA9
Haven’t had a failed battery on the road in years.

40-1200 CCA 12 Volt Digital Battery & System Tester - Clore Automotive

Get portability and performance when testing batteries and vehicle charging systems with the 40-1200 CCA 12 Volt Digital Battery and System Tester. 40-1200 CCA 12V Digital Battery and System Tester

cloreautomotive.com

 

[SMSW]

I saved myself a lot of hassle and bought a maint free battery from honda. What a relief!

A misnomer. If you ever tighten the terminals again, or wipe it down, you have performed maintenance. I'd guess you bought a sealed AGM battery.

 

[mortenk]

Typical signs of a battery going bad. I have always been able to see bad batteries coming weeks or months before I have to push start my bikes. The less than normal starter speed you mention is a sure sign. Although I often wait until I have to push start to buy a new battery, it's probably smarter to just do it as soon as I notice first signs...

 

[Yaesu]

Volt meters work, and test what your alternator is putting out, but I wanted to know how many CCA amps I have left year after year In my batteries.
So I bought a BA 7 capacitance tester. Here is the site below for the BA9
Haven’t had a failed battery on the road in years.

I recently bought a similar battery tester from Amazon for just over $35. Now I can test my motorcycle batteries, truck, cars, tractor, mowers, generator, motor home, and boat batteries. Well worth the money.

 

[Gerhard]

Most gas stations will load test your battery for free.

I think I would have to go to 1970 to find that gas station, most gas stations now have people working in them that would be hard pressed to find the filler cap let alone the battery.