Powertex lifepo4 starting battery, not mentioned anywhere or an ST owners until now.

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Being found coloring outside the lines again, don't want to replace my starting battery with a lead acid, with the reading I've done on lifepo4.
Well I'm not the first one to do it found a couple other life Poe starting batteries for an '05 ST1300 to be in the $160 to $200 range, this one is not.
It has the cranking amps and voltage requirements. It is a motorcycle specific starting battery it just doesn't come up for my year make and model but the dimensions are close enough I think it will fit, just haven't measured it yet.
What do some of you number crunchers and statisticians think about the way it presents?
 
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The listed amperage is a typo. Free shipping.

 
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The listed amperage is a typo. Free shipping.

It would seem so because 150 watt hours stated, doesn't jive with 5 amp hours multiplied by 12 volts.
Still reading about it, want to try it.
 

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I have no idea about that battery type, so I can't help you there.

I did notice that It states 225 CCA. CCA is not usually what is referenced with lithium batteries. They usually list CA, which is not the same as CCA.
Some of the batteries on that site list CA, and some list CCA, which is odd because they are all lithium.
Make sure that what is listed is correct so that you know what you are getting.

Have a look at the below;
 
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I have no idea about that battery type, so I can't help you there.

I did notice that It states 225 CCA. CCA is not usually what is referenced with lithium batteries. They usually list CA, which is not the same as CCA.
Some of the batteries on that site list CA, and some list CCA, which is odd because they are all lithium.
Make sure that what is listed is correct so that you know what you are getting.

Have a look at the below;
Ah yes anti-gravity brand I have heard of that and have read from thread to thread of different batteries, just doing my basic research.
So far, what I find the most annoying is they reference lithium ion and lithium iron phosphate in the same description of the battery.
For example it will reference a powertext 12 volt lithium-ion battery, then go on to begin describing lithium iron phosphate technology. They are not the same.
 
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I would probably not use a lithium ion battery in the ST1300 because of the engine heat. Except a good BMS also monitors battery temperature and charges accordingly so perhaps it would be safe. But they can set on fire at around 140 F due to a thermal chain reaction. They burn at very high temperatures and cannot be put out. So, no thanks. If a lithium ion battery sets fire on your bike, the bike is gone. The other issue is there is no warning before they quit, they just quit. I like them, just not in this application.

Added a link to good information. https://www.thervgeeks.com/what-is-thermal-runaway/
 
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I would probably not use a lithium ion battery.
Quick correction, the Powertex battery and the choice of starting battery will be lithium iron phosphate.
The comment above pertaining to hard- to-read advertising is the reference of lithium-ion and lithium iron phosphate for the same battery. I don't know why that's done, but it is a confusing read when they state that it is a Lithium-Ion battery for purchase then proceed to describe its lithium iron phosphate properties. I just don't have the time of day to write every one of these manufacturers and say you really need to stop doing that, the battery technologies are completely different.
 
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Andy the battery is lithium iron phosphate chemistry which is much safer as far as fires are concerned than lithium ion.
This is quite true, additionally, about three out of five people selling lithium iron phosphate, have lithium ion stickered right on the battery, don't know how that happened it's like selling soda and the label is water.
The only common and consistent name between the two is lithium.
 
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What a rabbit hole all of this research is, another link from Powertex dimensionally fits the battery compartment better and has the proper description for the specifications.
For just 5 dollars more..
 
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As someone who has worked in the battery field in the past I often wonder how terms come to mean what they do.
Lithium-Ion is a type of battery chemistry. There are a whole bunch of types of Lithium-Ion batteries, including LiFePO4 and LiMn2O4 and even Lithium-Air variants.
It's not wrong to label any one of them as Lithium Ion since that is what it is. It's just very general and doesn't tell the consumer which specific chemistry is in the battery.
As far as using them on a daily basis, they are all fairly safe unless they are abused in some way particular to the specific chemistry. The typical LiMn2O4 battery you have in your cell phone or laptop won't tolerate as much heat as a LiFePO4 battery but it is perfectly fine under normal use. A LiMn2O4 battery used in a hybrid car will hold up fairly well in an accident where a LiCoO2 chemistry will not so they're used in applications where that type of damage isn't likely to occur.
There are two main ways to get a bad reaction out of a Lithium Ion battery: Overcharge it or cause an internal short circuit (crush it or puncture it with something metallic). That generally ends in an explosion that takes place within the cell itself and can't be stopped. An internal BMS is a must if you're using it in an application where there isn't a specific charging circuit that monitors and controls the current going to each individual cell. Most of them are pretty tolerant of external short circuits and vibration and heat. Over-discharging doesn't really do much more than just cause the cell to go permanently dead, unless you force it so far in the wrong direction that you get lithium plating on the opposite plates which causes internal heating which then can lead to an internal explosion. This is actually difficult to do in any real world situation if the battery has a monitoring circuit inside.
Yes, cell phone batteries were blowing up due to overcharging. That is a single cell application (or maybe a few in parallel) and so the charging circuit was not doing it's job and cutting things off if the temperature or voltage got too high. Car and motorcycle batteries have several cells in series so the temperature and voltage monitoring are done internally and/or with a special "balance" plug you see on some battery/charger combinations.
I currently have a lead acid battery in my ST1300 but will probably switch to a LiFePO4 battery when this one dies. I live in Florida so I don't have to worry about cold weather performance under normal circumstances. If I go on a trip I know the tricks to get the battery working enough to start my bike if it gets too cold. I have no worries at all about the safety of the battery so the only consideration I have is life span. LiFePO4 can take at least 5 times the charge/discharge cycles over other types so that's why I'd choose it.
 
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As someone who has worked in the battery field in the past I often wonder how terms come to mean what they do.
Lithium-Ion is a type of battery chemistry. There are a whole bunch of types of Lithium-Ion batteries, including LiFePO4 and LiMn2O4 and even Lithium-Air variants.
It's not wrong to label any one of them as Lithium Ion since that is what it is. It's just very general and doesn't tell the consumer which specific chemistry is in the battery.
As far as using them on a daily basis, they are all fairly safe unless they are abused in some way particular to the specific chemistry. The typical LiMn2O4 battery you have in your cell phone or laptop won't tolerate as much heat as a LiFePO4 battery but it is perfectly fine under normal use.
This post was much needed for clarification. I did not know the foundation of this Battery Technology was lithium-ion and will go for the lithium iron phosphate as well.
 
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Based on all of this information I would probably get this one but 150 Watt Hours @ 12.8 V is 11.7 Amps. But on the battery is says 64 WH, so that would be 5 amps… that’s not good. Less than half the energy capacity of the standard YTZ14S.

EA6BECF6-0ADF-43EB-AB8A-114061376B72.jpeg
For comparison.

9E6857AA-84CD-40EC-B50E-C9844E355AB0.jpeg
 
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I see where you're coming from with the reduced watt hour capacity, however the battery chemistry is able to use the amps rated for, close to the end of the capacity, rivaling a lead acid battery with twice the watt hour rating.
 
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I see where you're coming from with the reduced watt hour capacity, however the battery chemistry is able to use the amps rated for, close to the end of the capacity, rivaling a lead acid battery with twice the watt hour rating.
True!
 
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I put a Lithium ion motorcycle battery from my local Batteries +Bulbs store in my ST1300 earlier this year. It weighs 2 lbs vs. the lead acid battery weight of 8 lbs. Very slow self discharge so I don't have to mess with a battery tender and never worry about it being depleted when I go to crank up the bike. Best part they gave me 3 year free replacement warranty if I remember right. The local auto shops wanted $100+ for lead acid battery with 6 month warranty. I paid ~$150 out the door for my battery. They even told me to try it for 30 days, if I didn't like it they would give me a full refund. Needless to say I haven't been back, until I need another battery. I've already passed the 6 month mark. Hope this helps someone.- BR
 
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