Pricing a project/parts bike (ST1100)

[tkhelm]

My local repair shop tells me the alternator (stator) on my 1993 ST1100A has gone bad and replacement costs for parts and the labor will be >$2000. Also, the ABS light has been blinking for a while and the error code indicates it's the front ABS pump. I've been living with the ABS light because I've not been able to source a replacement and the list price for a new pump is very, very expensive. It doesn't make sense for me to sink that much money into it to bring this bike back to life, even though it's given me so many great miles of riding.

It's possible that it could become a good project bike for someone but more likely it should just be parted out. I don't have the ability or time to do that myself, so I'd like to find someone to take it off my hands.

The first question I have for the good people of this forum is what is a reasonable price for me to ask for a non-running bike with these known problems? I have searched the forums here and with Google more generally but don't really see any examples of buy/sell offers for non-running bikes.

 

[Uncle Phil]

If the body work is in really good shape, that is where the value is nowadays. I presume it has the 28A alternator which reduces the 'part's bike' value some as folks want the 40 amp version. You could probably sell the bodywork a piece at a time and make more that selling the entire bike - but it would take a lot of time and hassle. Non-runners with good bodywork are usually south of $1,000 somewhere in my experience. The older and the more miles, the further south of that they are ...

 

[tkhelm]

Thanks! Actually, the shop says the alternator that’s in there is a 40amp, which was a big surprise to me. I’m not the original owner and bought it pretty much unfarkled, so I had no reason to think it might be anything other than the original 28amp unit. Given that it’s the thing that’s not working, is there any reason for someone to value the upgrade now?

 

[TMF]

That $2000 quote sounds outrageous to me. Can't you source a used part on EBay or a junkyard and try to wrench it in there yourself or with the help of a friend? Seems like a shame to lose a bike over something like that. I just picked up a good running '92 ST for $900 and haven't seen one lower whether running or not. I'd love to swap my tired, rattle canned bodywork for what you have. I saw a nice looking ST1300 on Maryland's Craigslist a week or so ago with 60K on the clock. Asking price was $2600.00.

 

[tkhelm]

That $2000 quote sounds outrageous to me. Can't you source a used part on EBay or a junkyard and try to wrench it in there yourself or with the help of a friend? Seems like a shame to lose a bike over something like that.

The shop time in the service manual for the alternator is listed as 7 or 8 hours, so with the other things that need doing, labor is about half the cost. And previous discussion in this forum about the ABS warning light suggested that with luck it could be a simple fix…or not.

So it probably would be a good project bike for someone with the time and skills. Unfortunately, that’s not me right now, for a variety of reasons. It’s time to find it a better home.

 

[SMSW]

Parting a bike out, as Uncle Phil said, takes time and hassle. You will have high shipping costs that tend to lower what you can get for a large part (anything over a foot or two long) and it is not always possible to state, "local pickup only". Finding boxes big enough to ship a seat, or windshield (not to mention fairing parts) can be difficult unless you are in a big city. Even then, purveyors of boxes like U-haul tend to have specific sizes that are useful for moving furniture and smaller possessions.

Its been said many times here, that a good mechanic can better the flat rate book's time to do a repair. I've heard that some dealerships expect their mechanics to take half the number of hours for larger repairs. Before you dump this very nice looking bike, give @Igofar a call and talk to him.

I understand not being in a place to do the repairs yourself.

 

[PhotoDoctor]

What is the seat? Some of the aftermarket seats get a fair price : )

Are those Heli Bars too?


Since you don't want to do the work I'd suggest that you look for the guy in your area that wants it and can do the work himself, via - Craig's list, Facebook, and of course here on the forum.

Your bike should run with a charged up battery - and if that's the case, be sure to keep it running and it will be easier to sell.

Phil is right if the body work where perfect...... It's hard to tell from the photos but it looks like the font fender is faded so maybe other parts are too? (Candy Glory Red is the color of your bike and I like it the best of the colors available in the usa)

I bought a 20,000 mile non running 2002 ST1100 for $ 400.00 that had sat garage kept for 8 years. It needed the carbs cleaned, new fuel pump, tires, and also got all new coolant hoses, brakes and more.

The reason the PO let it go for $ 400.00 is that a friend of his had his GoldWing throttle cable replaced and it cost $ 1,500 at the dealer. The PO had already tried to do the work and made a mess of things so it was a basket case but everything was there

The $ 400.00 bike cost me another $ 850.00 more or less in parts and is now a very nice bike that I have $ 1,250 cash and all kinds of time into. But it's a hobby that I like and is entertainment for me and keeps me out the the Movie Houses : )

 

[Uncle Phil]

There maybe a place/person that can repair the 40 amper - I am really surprised that it went south as they usually don't. Just some thoughts -
Have you thought about getting a 'second' opinion on what is actually wrong? As far as the ABS goes, a non-working ABS does not cause the bike from stopping and the lights can be disconnected - lots of running ST1100s without ABS. If you like the bike, you might see if there is a member on the RAN list near you that could look at the bike or else take it to another dealer and see what they say - with no mention of what the previous one said. Dealerships do not always get it right - especially on older ST1100s - trust me on that one!
Post the 'symptoms' here and we might can figure it out for you.

 

[Ron]

There used to be a guy name Norm that repaired the ABS motors for far less than the new price. If you can get them. Don't know if he's still around. If I remember correctly, the ABS motors are the same but with different color wires and connector.

I'm with Phil, the 40 amp alt. doesn't go bad very often. Except in the UK. Look on EBAY to see what one looks like if you're not sure (28 vs 40) and verify it is a 40 amp. Price is also far less than Honda's price. It can be swapped out without pulling the motor but you have to pull a lot of other stuff.

As for selling it out right, I'd say $400-$500.

 

[Hound]

I'm with Phil, the 40 amp alt. doesn't go bad very often. Except in the UK.

I remember it well! I was lucky to have a good friend who replaced the 40A item with another one I'd bought used, knowing it was failing. The old one actually packed in on my way to get the new one fitted. It was a long job.

I never had a problem with the 28A alternator, but it had a separate, uprated regulator/rectifier as it was a police model.

I found that a bit of black insulation tape over the ABS light helped me to stop worrying about it

 

[Uncle Phil]

I found that a bit of black insulation tape over the ABS light helped me to stop worrying about it

I figured out on the ABSII where the light connectors were located ...

 

[Slydynbye]

Dealers do indeed make mistakes in troubleshooting alternators or they just guess and recommend complete replacement when it's not necessary.
You should do the actual tests and confirm how it failed. There are 3 components on the Alternator, also the infamous red wire issue on the Starter relay.
I wonder if the dealer even has the manual and troubleshooting procedure for the Alt.

 

[red one]

Not trying to insult you but your 93 was not worth much even if it was working. Even my 2000 model I was offered 1900 dollars trade in a few years ago and this is on a bike that was running and intact. I think mines worth a little less now. If mine was to cost more to repair than what its worth I'd take the highest salvage value and move on.

 

[tkhelm]

Since you don't want to do the work I'd suggest that you look for the guy in your area that wants it and can do the work himself, via - Craig's list, Facebook, and of course here on the forum.

That's why I posted this in the regional forum that includes WA (I'm north of Seattle). Thanks also for the additional suggestions of CraigsList and Facebook.

As others have said, it's possible that it's been mis-diagnosed and either/both the alternator and the ABS are fixable. I've previously done the work myself to diagnose and fix electrical issues (3P bypass, VRR replacement, etc.). I was a novice at this type of maintenance and found it interesting and educational to do the work myself but I also know how long it took me...and the evidence now says I didn't get to the root cause. So, with a brand new job and my parents facing serious health issues, I know I don't have the time to spend on this right now that I would like.

This is a great bike that hopefully just needs the care it deserves...hopefully the discussion on this thread will help me find a better home for it.

 

[tkhelm]

If you like the bike, you might see if there is a member on the RAN list near you that could look at the bike or else take it to another dealer and see what they say - with no mention of what the previous one said.

Thanks Uncle Phil. I haven't been on this forum in a while and I had forgotten about the RAN list. I'll check that now to see if there's anyone nearby. Hopefully I can get a lead on another shop that knows what they're doing when it comes to STs.

 

[tkhelm]

What is the seat? Some of the aftermarket seats get a fair price : )

Are those Heli Bars too?

It's a Sargeant seat, and yes, Helibars.

You've made me realize that I could likely sell the major after-market items, including the backrest, windscreen, front fork headlights, and even the saddlebags (which are not pristine but in decent shape) for as much as the whole thing seems worth for someone else to part out. This would also take time (including finding boxes!) but is less of a heavy lift than trying to part the whole thing out myself. It's an option to consider, anyway. Thank you.

 

[cjames431]

I picked up my '94 ABS/TCS ST1100 2yrs ago with a dead 28amp alt for $500. ABS/TCS don't work, cost me about $500 to do the 40amp upgrade. If your bike already has the 40amp the replacement off Feebay for less than $140 and @johnoosterhuis has a loaner kit that includes the tools for removing the swing arm. The work is not overly difficult. I'm down in Tacoma.

 

[ST11Nut]

The 40 amp alternator can be replaced without removing the swing arm.

 

[ToddC]

The 40 amp alternator can be replaced without removing the swing arm.
[/QUOTE/
What are you doing in AZ...!!?!???!!
T

 

[ST11Nut]

Snowbirding between AZ and WA. We're down here until April