Take a look at the second drawing referenced by the link. If you check the electrical analysis (right-hand side) of both the "Honda ST1300 Heated Grips..." and the "Honda ST1300 Grips Controller & Dual Star Heated..." sketches, you'll see that the two different grips have very similar values, if anything the Dual Star heated grips appear to have a slightly greater wattage (1%) than the OEM heated grips.
Regardless, I find that neither set of heated grips are comfortable to hold onto when set to the highest setting.
My Honda OEM grips stopped working last winter, and I traced the problem down with a multi-meter to the wire which connects the two grips in series. I did not feel like pulling the tupperware to replace one wire at that time, so I soldered in a separate jumper wire until later. Study the wiring schematic, and it should be fairly easy to DIY.
Thanks Anna'sDad, for the wire diagram for the symtec grips. I might try this.
Critters
Retired Black Rat
East,
If you can find out which is faulty,(disconnect and check for continuity) I am sure David Silver spares do them in singles, however I am sure if you are buying one you would be better buying two for the shipping and keep a spare.
I've just had my OEMs die, less than a year old, I did the install so I'm not going to ask Honda for a refund. Electrics are not my strongest suit. Anna'sDad, the Dual Star heaters to Honda Controller schematic is awesome.
Can anyone answer a couple of questions:
1. What do you use to terminate the low heat, blue wires?
2. Are there any special or unique plugs and/or connectors I should purchase at the same time I buy the heaters?
Thanks.
When I installed the Dual Start grip heaters on my daughter's Ninja I snipped the ends of the blue wires cleanly, used heat shrink tube on the ends, and lastly turned each wire back along the wire bundle and used heat shrink to keep it in place. I tried to indicate this in the drawing.
The OEM Honda grips and controller use single bullet style connectors, I usually purchase these and other connectors from Vintageconnections.com.
Thanks for the praise, enjoy your new heated grips.
Your comment about the bullet connectors made me think a little harder about this. The last time I used a dealer was for the Roadsmart recall. The tech forgot to reconnect the Centch I have under the pillion seat and he had re-routed the wires around the steering head.
Because I had done a half*** job of covering the grips' wires, using electrical (slippy) grease and insulating tape (lazy), I decided to pull off the tape. I found one of the connectors had separated. I don't know if the cause was the normal use of the handlebars or the wire re-routing, but when connected, the grips work fine.
Lesson learned, get out the heat gun and tubes and do it right the first time. It looks a helluva lot better as well.
Because I had done a half*** job of covering the grips' wires, using electrical (slippy) grease and insulating tape (lazy), I decided to pull off the tape. I found one of the connectors had separated. I don't know if the cause was the normal use of the handlebars or the wire re-routing, but when connected, the grips work fine.
Lesson learned, get out the heat gun and tubes and do it right the first time. It looks a helluva lot better as well.
I think I'll need to dig into mine and see whats up. I have no lights on the controller, and no heat. Looks like I'll be pulling some plastic. Thanks for posting the wiring!
Re: Heated grip failure
You must mean to say that if one fails, then both stop working. When the two heated grips are wired in 'series' then if you have an open-circuit in one of the grips, both will stop heating. If you had a short circuit where the wires enter the grip, then full voltage would go to the remaining good grip, which would overheat and likely melt it.
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You must mean to say that if one fails, then both stop working. When the two heated grips are wired in 'series' then if you have an open-circuit in one of the grips, both will stop heating. If you had a short circuit where the wires enter the grip, then full voltage would go to the remaining good grip, which would overheat and likely melt it.
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