Question for all the 1100 gurus (well, those that have changed the steering head bearings)…

Erdoc48

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I got to work this afternoon- disassembly was pretty easy using an impact gun to loosen everything- then removing the steering shaft was also easy (had to get a 30 mm socket at Lowes)- removing the races from the stem was also easy using the Motion Pro race puller I bought months ago- I used a Dremel to cut the lower race from the steering shaft- loads of sparks but trying to tap it off wasn’t happening. So here’s the dilemma:

-when I installed the lower race, it seemed not to seat properly- I have a Motion Pro race press tool but it wasn’t long enough to accommodate the tightening nuts on the top and bottom- I tapped the new race (lower) using a hammer and the part of the tool that fit the race in an attempt to seat it- not good enough so I used the puller to remove it and try to reinstall it. Now, it’s seated (tapped a bit, then used the proper elements of the tool with a slightly longer threaded rod, washers, and large nuts to effectively make a press - these I got from Ace some time ago. Seemed to seat well and is below the outer rim of the steering head (meanwhile, the upper race was actually easy and quick to install and evenly seated- that just was hammered home and no issues)). In the front of the lower stem, it seems a little deeper than at the back, maybe a depth difference of 1-2 mm so not much. I placed the stem back in with the new bearing on it, and no issues. So it a slightly imperfect seating of the race but seems to function normally with the new bearing (obviously not tightened to spec yet). I tried several methods to seat the race just a little better including the press method, using the old race inverted to hammer it home (but I didn‘t want to use a screwdriver or chisel to hammer it out of fear of damaging the new race. No dice on any of the 3.

Question: Am I overthinking this and I can reassemble everything in the AM, or do I need again to pull the race in an attempt to ‘make it perfect’?
I don’t want to tear this down again after it’s all reassembled. The whole thing was precipitated by a ‘groink’ sound from the front end and it was suggested that maybe the steering bearings were toast. Actually the OEM bearings were in very good shape / lots of decent looking grease for 50K miles (I’m assuming never changed by the prior owner). Makes me think it’s an inherent sound in the forks I can live with if I know the steering bearings are good and well greased.
 

ST1100Y

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OEM bearing kit or pattern?
Have you inspected the race seats in the steering head for any burrs?
Have you cleaned and lubed the seats prior inserting the outer races?
1~2mm offset is a LOT! Definitively requires to be corrected...

Unsure about the tool with threaded rod, IMO never enough force to truly seat those races... especially as the tool adapters are made out of aluminum...

Got me a bearing driver kit made out of steel, similar design as the Honda OEM kit for this task...


Affordable, rigid, versatile, sorted in 1mm steps, perfect for any situation...
Already did my friend's ST1300 and my very own ST1100 head bearings with it...

I carefully clean the seats in the steering head (brake cleaner, rags, etc...) inspect for burrs/chipping (tool-marks during removal/hammering out the old races) and remove where required, apply a smear of waterproof grease on the surfaces, insert the new race parallel by hand, sink it further by applying slight taps with a hammer all around the circumfence (continuously check that the race keeps aligned), once its flush with the tube I set my driver bit on it and keep pounding, once its almost seated I apply harder strokes and check the sound created is changing from dull/muffled to a bright ring, indicating the race got home/is fully seated...

Other folks keep the bearing races in the freezer over night, supposed to shrink them... IMO would it require liquid nitrogen to cause any noticeable shrinking on the hardened steel... ;)
 
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ST1100Y

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Not sure what you mean- if you mean does the fork lock still work, then yes.
Ran into serious issues with those dreaded aftermarket tapered bearing kits once while refurbing a CX500 EuroSport...
Either the steering lock wouldn't engage, or the steering limiters wouldn't engage/work, or the top nut would only grab on the very last threads of the steering stem...
And after finally finding a set that fitted, I had to waste more time on finding the proper torque using a spring scale attached to a fork leg...
 
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Erdoc48

Erdoc48

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^^ Actually, I used an AllBalls tapered roller kit- new bearings, races, and dust seals. No issues with fitment, and the steering lock works fine- I took it today for a test run- feels much better- no wobbles or weave so I guess the torque on the stem is just right- I used the Mike Martin page on setting the torque to 20 ft-lbs, then loosen, retighten finger tight (I did a tighter finger tight with a towel over the nut so I could apply just a little more finger torque- I have the proper tool to loosen/tighten that nut as well. Rides very well and got rid of that ‘groink’ sensation/ sound I was sensing before the swap (feels like it’s all rubber mounted- actually feels like an all new bike, so I guess my prior bearing was, in fact, shot). I have to do it on the Silverwing as well (the 2000 ST had roller bearings installed by the dealership back in NJ shortly after I bought that bike new in 2000). I do have a different question now…I bought several months ago via eBay an MCL fork brace (SuperBrace no longer makes them for the ST1100, but I have one on the 2000 from a long time ago). I’ll show pics of the brace, but it’s not cut under the brace to account for the fender. Does anyone have one and how did you get it to fit???? I didn’t spend too much on it (I think $70 used from a bike salvage company on eBay), but I would like to make use of it if possible. If not, oh well, I guess it goes in the spare parts bin.

As for removal, I think I may have posted this above- the race remover from Motion Pro worked very well, the bearing press, not as well since the shaft of it is too short- I used a threaded rod and made a composite tool that worked well, but a light hammer with the old race on the new one after setting it in place works well. Also, I used Dremel to take the race off the steering shaft as it wouldn’t budge any other way (didn’t cut completely through and I guess the heat expanded the metal of the race so it popped off.

When I do this for the SWing, I don’t think it’ll be that hard having done one already, plus, tearing that front end down is much less complex (only on brake caliper and taking the forks off looks pretty easy).

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ST1100Y

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...it’s not cut under the brace to account for the fender. Does anyone have one and how did you get it to fit????
IIRC does it go above the fender...
Remove the OEM plastic dust protectors from the fork bottoms and clamp that brace up there...
Only that the 1100 already has brace hidden inside the fender...
 
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Erdoc48

Erdoc48

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I did that (removed the OEM plastic protectors) but the fender is in the way of the brace lying flat and clamping to the black metal of the fork tubes - I wonder if anyone has one and got it to fit (I agree after riding it today, it seems largely unnecessary).
 

John OoSTerhuis

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I have the Superbrace installed on my ‘91. It has a concave bottom so it clears the OEM fender. The brace in your pictures will not work. FWIW

John
 
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