R60 with R80 frame

[Optimus]

Hi all
Got a lead on an 1974 R60/6. I called the guy & he said the frame was from an R80.:cry: I'm going to look at it tomorrow just wondering would there be any difference in the frames of these bikes.? It's too bad as I was hoping for matching numbers I know that kills the value. He's asking $1350 I'm pretty sure I can get it for a grand I'm thinking. Did run not sure of mileage looks complete other than signal lens. Will appreciate any info thx Lee

 

[STArnie13]

There is most likely some differences in the frames as the R80 has more power than the R60 so parts of the frame may be a bit stronger. If it is running then any needed modifications have been done and hopefully right. If the valves are original there could be problems as the R60 was supposed to be run on leaded premium I believe.

 

[klaproth]

On a 1974, the frames are probably identical. Yes, the value will be greatly diminished with no matching numbers, but it will be a fun bike! $1000 is about right. I have owned more than a few of these bikes, and love them. They are simple to work on, but pricey to get worked on, if you don't do your own work. Parts are still easy to come by, both online, and locally here...I usually go online, my favorite source is www.eubmw.com, but they have a limited amount of parts. For BMW microfiche, www.maxbmwmotorcycles.com. BMW rallies are a blast too!

Edit: a few good mods to make it a more dependable bike: Boyer Microdigital ignition system , don't use synthetic oil, Odyssey PC680 AGM battery.

 

[Optimus]

Thx guys. I ended up I getting it for $700 so I think I done alright. Yes I do all my own work first thing I did was get it running which was surprising easy for an old bike that sat for who knows how long. Your right this is a simple machine,makes my snow blower look complicated lol. It also has Dyna ignition.I now have it stripped & getting ready to prime the frame. Only bad part I found was input shaft wear, not real bad but bad enough that I'm looking out for a new one. I disassembled the feared trans & all looks well other than a chewed up kick start gear on the input shaft. I see a couple of input shafts on eBay but it shows a blank piece of metal in place of the kick starter gear. I don't ever plan on using the kick start do you think I could use this other style of input shaft? from what I can see all the input shafts in this era are the same part number. Also Klaproth you mention not to use synthetic , I'm assuming you mean in the engine, did you have issues? I was planning on using 75-90 syn in the rest of the driveline would that be ok?
Now back to painting thx for info Lee

 

[dduelin]

The kick starter is an Achilles heel on the /6 and /7 series. I had the optional kick starter on my airhead for 40,000 miles and never used it for fear of breaking it. If the input shaft shows any wear it needs replacing as you know. Mine stripped at 81,000 requiring a tranny rebuild. I also bought a rebuilt box for a spare to keep on the shelf.

Conventional airhead wisdom is never to use synthetic lube in the gearbox or engine as it may starting leaking more that it already weeps or seeps. Because the oil is changed at such short intervals I never saw advantage in using other than a quality 20w50 mineral oil in the engine and 80w90 GL-5 spec in the gearbox.

 

[Optimus]

Beautiful bike. I hope mine can end up half as nice. Did you paint your engine ,only reason I ask is that I must paint mine,even after several acid baths & though scrubbing its still pretty ugly. I agree with the kick starter as for mine it will be there just to look at lol. Good to know about the oil & your so right, I will be replacing all the oils every year no matter the km/ miles so synthetic is a total waste. Being new to airheads I just wondered if it was one of those secret definitely do things to make things last . Thx

 

[dduelin]

I painted the valve covers, the timing chain cover, the starter cover and the airbox. Also frame, swing arm, misc frame parts, etc. When I refreshed the motor I had the heads and cylinders bead blasted by Nathan at <Boxerworks-Service.com> . Great guy and knows everything about airheads.

The engine block and both trannies were original. I got lucky I guess. My R100 was sold new in AZ and may have been spared the moisture and humidity that often badly oxidizes the alloy parts that make up an airhead.

I sold my R100 a year ago to buy a Honda NC700X. Now I have nothing to do in the garage except the occasional regular scheduled maintenance. I was so bored yesterday afternoon I changed the oil in my lawnmower and sharpened the blades. The airhead always gave me something to do.

 

[klaproth]

I have to agree with Dduelin on the oil, and on his appraisal of the Airhead bikes. Dino oil everywhere is the rule. After reading the Consumer Reports test on oils a few years ago, I don't use synthetic oils at all...too expensive, and not enough return on the investment. I DO use them in air compressors, but not in internal combustion engines, since they will not get contaminated with combustion byproducts in the compressor.

The Airheads DO require a bit more maintenance than (modern) Hondas, in general. The fact that they are much older MAY have something to do with it...also, these bikes were MADE to be rebuilt over and over, in an era when bikes were somewhat "disposable". I remember reading somewhere that 84% of all the BMW's ever built are still licensed. (This despite their recent decline in reliability ratings!)

If i ever got a bigger garage, I'd love to find another Airhead to restore. As you noted, Lee, they are actually fun to work on!