Radar detector mounting

[Erik]

Ok ST gurus I need help. I bought a mount for my ST that attaches to the handle bar mounting bolts. I doesn't work, well I should say it works but where it's located right above the clutch master cyclinder it is aimed through the fairing but behind the windshield supports which are metal. I am losing about 2 tenths of a mile of range as compared to mounting on the dash. So yes the answer is to mount it on the dash. The problem is that Ron Smith ain't making anymore shelves, and more so I don't want a big ol shelf that cover the whole dash. Idealy I'd like to find a mount which would use the two existing holes on top of the dash and was just a small plate that the detector (V1) would sit on. Anyone know of something like this or am I going to have to roll my own?

 

[dannyk]

probably have to make it yourself. I have seen where a person took a short piece of wood the width of the detector and worked it down to the shape of the dash, thin on the end facing you and thicker away from you to make the detector level pointing down the road. painted it black and attached everything with hook and loop, worked fine. I just put a chunk of velcro on the dash and some on the bottom of my detector, it points down some but still works good enough for my purposes.

 

[Erik]

Any problems with it coming loose??

 

[joema]

I just used industrial-strength Velcro (from Home Depot) and no curved mounting plate. Just velcro'd my Passport Solo S2 directly to the top of the instrument visor.

It's not an ideal technique since the instrument visor is curved and the detector bottom is flat. This reduces the Velcro mated surface area.

But so far it's OK. Every hour or so of riding I press on it to make sure it's secure.

As mentioned you ideally want a thin adapter plate with a curved bottom (to match the instrument cowl) and a flat top to match to detector bottom. Given that industrial Velcro is probably plenty strong.

Radio Shack sells a Velcro-like product called Superlock that's supposedly much stronger. This might work better than Velcro:

http://www.radioshack.com/product.asp?catalog_name=CTLG&product_id=64-2360

 

[Erik]

I've used superlock..3m has a similar product called dual lock. Problem with those is they lock together stronger than the glue...

 

[dannyk]

I got my hook and loop from walmart and so far it works like a charm, no issues. Have ridden with the detector on for about 800 miles. I cut a square about 3X3. Directions say it takes about 24 hours to get a complete bond, found it in the section where the sewing supplies are.

 

[Erik]

I'm going to try mounting it in the left storage box... If I get good range I'll mount the remote visual display on the dash. Here's a question: Getting power to the top of the dash? It appears that what look like vents along the top aren't open though to behind the dash, did you guys that mounted the unit on top drill a small hole for the power wire? I'm thinking I could drill a small hole in one of those vent areas and it won't really be noticable.

 

[Killtimer]

I'm going to try mounting it in the left storage box...

This is what I've done, with the remote on the clutch res. I used hook/loop on the top of the res. and ran the wire up the underside of the bar. The V1 needs to be placed on edge to fit and you do loose a little range. The fact that I don't need to sweat the rain anymore, or worry about security is a plus. In the left box there is a hole in the bottom that allows access to a mounting screw. I just ran my power into the box through there.

 

[dannyk]

I'm using a escort passport that I have had for a number of years, uses a flat 2 wire cord. I loosened the 2 screws on the left side under the dash and the 2 plastic rivets on the top of the dash, left side also, that allowed me to route the cable up from my power source to the detector and with a little well placed electrical tape to protect the cable I just came out of the groove that mates the leading edge of the dash with the rest so I only have about 2 inches of pig tail sticking out. pressed everything back in place and re-installed the rivets and screws.If you would like I'm sure some of us can provide you with pictures of our set up. If you have laser also on your detector the laser may not work in the pocket, not sure though. Danny :biker:

 

[Erik]

OK I tried the V1 in the left pocket but I'm loosing more than a 10th of a mile of range, at least on X band.. I'd imagine that it would be even worse with instant on K and KA so I'm gonna go with top of the dash with some type of velcro, at least until I can find or make a mount. I would have liked to do it in the left hand box but I don't want to give up the performance of the detector.

 

[wjbertrand]

I'm going to try mounting it in the left storage box... If I get good range I'll mount the remote visual display on the dash. Here's a question: Getting power to the top of the dash? It appears that what look like vents along the top aren't open though to behind the dash, did you guys that mounted the unit on top drill a small hole for the power wire? I'm thinking I could drill a small hole in one of those vent areas and it won't really be noticable.

I just pulled the wires up through the rear of the slots that the power windshield brackets protrude from. No holes or other permanent changes. Just make sure to tie wrap them under the dash cover to keep the wires clear of the shield tracks. I'm using a Ron Smith shelf and drawing the power from the quartet harness. My RD is powered with the key on or in the accessory position. No worries.

 

[Erik]

I pulled the dash apart and ran the wire out of one of the slots... Now if the velcro holds I'll be rockin!

 

[st1100jack]

The problem is that Ron Smith ain't making anymore shelves, and more so I don't want a big ol shelf that cover the whole dash. Idealy I'd like to find a mount which would use the two existing holes on top of the dash and was just a small plate that the detector (V1) would sit on. Anyone know of something like this or am I going to have to roll my own?

Did you ever find anything like this?

 

[Killtimer]

I made one from a piece of aluminium flat bar (1/8 x 2 IIRC). It's fastened to the right side hole with a single machine screw that extends down to a captivated nut below. I used 2 rubber grommets stacked on the screw to elevate the plate very slightly above the contour of the dash and provide a bit of shock absorbtion. The plate is covered with a length of hook/loop that I glued on. Pics to follow (dead camera battery )

 

[Killtimer]

Pics of the above mentioned mount. The plate is 1" wide, not 2" but it seems to hold fine. I use a ~1" piece of old MC inner tube as a big elastic around the unit and plate as a backup.

 

[okcst1300]

can someone explain theses 2 little holes on top of the dash, did KILLTIMER have to take apart any tupperware to get to theses top holes or do they just screw out or is there nuts on the back side ,does this all make sense???,

 

[1300 AstroSport]

If your talking about the holes I think your talking about they have pull fasteners in them, get a hold of the knob and pull.

 

[Highrider]

I fabricated a contoured nylon plate that mounts to the dash for my Escort. A Marc Parnes indicator is mounted below and the radar detector is fastened on top with HD Velcro. On long trips I find I need to wrap a HD rubber band around the mount and detector, I have had it come loose before with just the velcro after many hours on the road.

 

[okcst1300]

i'am talking about the 2 holes on top of the dash wirh the bolts in them do they have nuts on them , i want to unscrew them & mount a small plate then screw them back in but if they have a nut on the back side I think i will have to take tupperware apart to get to the nut???

 

[skidlid1300]

I used one of those foam sanding blocks and made it into a wedge, so that my radar detector lays level on the dash. I ground down the one side to fit the dash profile. Like what DannyK said, I used velcro on both sides of the wedge, and stuck it to my dash, with the detector on top. It has worked out well, I have had no problems with it coming loose. I've rode a 8500 mile trip with no problems, and it was a simple fix. Also, I can take it off easily enough, and put it in my saddlebag if need be.