raising forks in triple tree

[jspringator]

I expect my lower Works shock to arrive in the next week. i want to lower the front by rising the forks in the triple tree about an inch.

Is there any special procedure necessary to keep the forks from binding?

 

[Brant]

No binding, but that's gonna change the rake drasticly and possibly cause some serious handeing issue at speed, maybe not, but wouldn't be my choice. Curious as to why the drop in the front?

 

[ST Gui]

As long as the tops of the tubes clear any cables, etc., and you tighten the pinch bolts according to spec, there should be no binding. You'll check that before riding off anyway.

Changing the rake changes the trail and you'll get quicker steering. Could be quicker than you like unless that's your plan. With quicker steering comes the potential for speed wobble. I don't know how likely that is or if there are other factors say fatigue in riding long distances.

A lot of factors affect steering geometry and handling and raising the tubes an inch seems like a lot to me. But I don't really know except to say proceed with caution.

 

[dwalby]

Changing the rake changes the trail and you'll get quicker steering. Could be quicker than you like unless that's your plan. With quicker steering comes the potential for speed wobble.

In theory it will provide quicker steering, but quicker from what, a pig handling overweight touring-sport bike, so its not like you're going to turn it into a race bike. Having a full inch less of ground clearance on a bike that's already marginal in that department could prove to be sub-optimum. Have tried it with other bikes in the past, haven't tried it on the ST, so can't say what you'll get, good luck to you.

 

[Jim Van]

One other consequence of raising the fork tubes is you may have an interference problem during hard braking, if you have a fork brace, especially.

 

[dduelin]

Speaking from the saddle of a ST1300 this is how I do it. With the bike on the center stand I place my hydraulic floor jack under the oil pan and lift until the weight just begins to come off the front wheel. I then loosen the pinch bolts so the fork tubes are free to move up or down in the clamps. Dropping the jack ever so slightly raises the tubes in the clamps and keeps them aligned. If I need to jack it back up a little the tubes slide back down.

I needed to drop the clamps down to make up for the higher ride height extra preload on the fork springs gave me. One inch seems like an awful lot though. At full compression will the wheel or fender hit anything?

 

[jspringator]

One inch seems like an awful lot though. At full compression will the wheel or fender hit anything?

I'm not wedded to the inch. I may start out at 1/2 inch. The Works shock is an inch and 1/4 shorter, so that probably translates to an inch shorter. I have 60 series tires on the back. That lowered it about .4 inch. I want to try to keep it in balance. It won't quicken the steering if the rear is lower will it?

 

[dduelin]

Lower rear equals slower steering.

 

[ST Gui]

but quicker from what

Quicker than before he drops the tubes. I said quicker, not quick.

I'm not wedded to the inch. I may start out at 1/2 inch. The Works shock is an inch and 1/4 shorter, so that probably translates to an inch shorter. I have 60 series tires on the back. That lowered it about .4 inch. I want to try to keep it in balance. It won't quicken the steering if the rear is lower will it?

So if you lower the rear which will slow the steering and drop the front which will quicken the steering you could possibly end up with the same handling characteristics before any mods, at least relative to the speed of the handling. You'd have a slightly lower seat height and whatever handling and suspension changes your adjustments and Works shock give you.

My concern with dropping the front too much (however much that may be) is about setting yourself up for a wobble at speed. I've only been through one on another bike and there was nothing fun about that.

 

[jspringator]

I had a bad wobble on my Nighthawk 650 when I tried to convert it to radial tires and put on a lower rear tire. I never rode it any distance again. i don't want either end to get too far from the other. I think an inch lower on the front (with the 1 inch +- lower due to the Works shock plus .4 inches the rear is lowered doe to the 60 series tire) will about where I am now. I would be more afraid of a wobble if I didn't lower it. Moving the forks up an inch will probably only lower it 3/4's an inch.

 

[afrymoyer]

Leaving the forks alone, will leave the ST handling like a chopper. With an aftermarket "standard height" rear shock you can raise the fork tubes to 5/8" successfully. Anything after that you'll get head shake at around 40-45mph with certain brand tires. However, you are getting a custom lowered rear shock. Try raising tubes 5/8" and go from there. I woudn't raise any more than 3/4". Getting a new rear shock will certainly change the handling for the better. But, because your dropping the back and raising the front forks to try and equilize the bike, I would for sure freshen up the front end to combat the front from bottoming. Your gonna need fork springs and a fork oil change matched to your weight. Another thing to consider, is your gonna lose ground clearance. If your any sort of an aggressive rider, the pegs are gonna touch down early.

After the fork tubes are raised, you should remove the front wheel and check front wheel axle alignment between the tubes. Axle shaft needs to slide as smooth as butter between the tubes, before torqing everything down and re-installing the front wheel.

Starting off with a custom lowered seat should have been your first move, before messing with the suspension.

 

[jspringator]

I have a Corbin, mounted 60 series rear tire, and bought Daytona M-Star boots. Last time I dropped it pinned my foot underneath the bike. Not a great feeling. I'm sure a loaded top case had something to do with it. If this doesn't work, I'm going to sell it and get something else. Maybe I can improve my riding enough where i can put a taller shock back on. We'll see. My Nighthawk was lowered when I bought it and I raised it back up.

 

[ST1100Y]

Starting off with a custom lowered seat should have been your first move...

+1... lets also not forget that you decrease ground clearance/leaning angle by 'lowering' the suspension, which can cause issues in some situations...

 

[jspringator]

+1... lets also not forget that you decrease ground clearance/leaning angle by 'lowering' the suspension, which can cause issues in some situations...

When I am good enough to ride as depicted in your photograph I won't need it lowered anymore!

 

[ST1100Y]

When I am good enough to ride as depicted in your photograph I won't need it lowered anymore!

Well, then picture that there still was some clearance/reserve avail (not dragging any hardware like peg feelers/else except the tips of my size 13 hoofs hanging off...) and that such angles can easily be achieved during a pretty common avoidance maneuver like the standard brake & swerve around a car/farm tractor pulling out an exit/driveway... so its less skill then a situation dependency...
The pic was taken by a friend during our annual safety training, in which one can learn and experience how the bike still handles exceptional well in various 'extreme' situations...
While I understand the issue of flat-footing while stopping/slow maneuvering, I still think a too soon dragging undercarriage while in motion seems the more immediate/serious matter...

 

[jspringator]

I think I just need to get a greater comfort level with the bike. Once I'm there, I may raise it back up. I think i can raise the height of the shock. Looking at that lean angle, it is hard to believe lessening it somewhat is going to cause me a problem. Those that have done it (2-3 on this board) don't report a problem. I'm more worried the ride is going to be harsh. But honestly I expect the ride to be better because it is an aftermarket shock. I will just have a little knee bend to help be hold this beast up.

 

[jspringator]

I lowered the forks 1/2 inch using the floor jack method. Feels a whole lot better.

I wonder how much the 13 year old shock has already settled compared to new? What I'm getting at is I doubt the inch and 1/4 shorter shock is actually an inch and a quarter shorter than what I have now.

Additionally, an inch and 1/4 shorter shock may lower the bike between 1/2 and 3/4 inch because of the angle. It feels good now. I'm not sure want a drastic change. I could do another 1/4 on the front and set the sag on the shock so it lowers another 1/2 inch. Combined with my 60 series rear tire, that will put me one inch down in the rear and 3/4 inch down in the front. Combined with my M-Star boots, no top box and new technique (look far ahead, not at the dashboard), I should be OK.

Then I start the parking lot practice.

 

[Marco]

Interesting post this as you don't state that lowering the rear was intentional. I will echo the concerns here about an inch being extreme. It is...very! The fork only go so far up in the yokes before they touch the base of the bars. If you wish to restore the balance front & rear, how about finding a way to lengthen the shock. I made the mistake of pushing the forks of a Hornet 600 I raced up through the yokes by 8mm. It tucked on me & very nearly had me off.

 

[jspringator]

I have a lowered Works shock and a 60 series tire. I ended up lowering the forks 1/2 inch. This seems like enough. I have a lot easier time handling the bike now, and the handling seems quicker. I don't use it as a 100 MPH interstate bike, nor do I use a topbox, so this seems like a better fit for me and my 28" inseam. I used the jack method suggested earlier in the thread and it worked like a charm.