Rear brake line clamp on swing arm broken

[easy rider]

Hi

I noticed my rear wheel would be stuck on when the rear brake pedal is applied.

After closer inspection i noticed the clamp that is nearest to the rear calliper that holds the brake line hoses and pipes secure to the swing arm has
snapped complete off and is not replaceable as it is apart of the swing arm so i secured it back to the wing arm with zip ties which for now has worked and the rear brake is running free again.
Would not have thought it would have made any difference but for some reason it has just hope the ties hold as its not far from the exhaust.

Can't believe its snapped away leaving the brake lines and pipes about an inch away from the swing arm.

Has this happened to anyone else and whats your thoughts on why the lines not being secured to the swing arm effect the rear brake.

I can see there are three points along the swing arm where the brake line tubes and hoses are secured just can't believe its snapped off.

thanks

 

[Sadlsor]

Can you add a picture?

 

[Igofar]

PICTURES

 

[easy rider]

Can you add a picture?

I have found a picture of a swing arm off the internet quickly to show you so in the picture the you can see where the brake calliper
would be attached so the small L shaped bracket with the hole to the left is where your brake lines are secured, that has snapped of completely and is still attached to the brake line block which was the suspended in the air about an inch away from the frame and causing my rear brake to stick so i have zip tied it back down for now to the swing arm.

 

[easy rider]

will take a picture of my swing arm in the morning when i can see what i am doing

 

[wizel]

If the square with the 6mm thread on the swingarm is broken off, no rear brake will lock. The lines are once again screwed in the middle of the swingarm and opposite to the same square, visible in the background of the picture.
Suspect times, your SMC is defective.
spar

 

[easy rider]

If the square with the 6mm thread on the swingarm is broken off, no rear brake will lock. The lines are once again screwed in the middle of the swingarm and opposite to the same square, visible in the background of the picture.
Suspect times, your SMC is defective.
spar

yes agree checked it again this evening and its still dragging thing is replaced front and rear master cylinders overhauled front brake sub assembly on the left hand side and all callipers have been stripped all parts replaced apart from pistons which were fine. Thing is my front right calliper was sticking had the garage bleed brakes again all fixed no issues for weeks then just had tyres replaced and now the rear brake is sticking. starting to get frustrated as it been going on for months.

i replaced rear master cylinder a while back which did indeed fix my rear drag now its back after tyre change and brake pedal seems to be slow to come back up is this still air in the system?

 

[Igofar]

yes agree checked it again this evening and its still dragging thing is replaced front and rear master cylinders overhauled front brake sub assembly on the left hand side and all callipers have been stripped all parts replaced apart from pistons which were fine. Thing is my front right calliper was sticking had the garage bleed brakes again all fixed no issues for weeks then just had tyres replaced and now the rear brake is sticking. starting to get frustrated as it been going on for months.

i replaced rear master cylinder a while back which did indeed fix my rear drag now its back after tyre change and brake pedal seems to be slow to come back up is this still air in the system?

If I understand what you stated correctly, you "overhauled" the left side sub assembly (SMC)? and calipers?
If so, that may be your problem.
Just looking inside the bore, or replacing a rebuild kit, often will not correct the issues, as the cartridge on the rear of the unit that filters the return port will get clogged up, and build up pressure, causing the brakes to drag etc.
Also, once your SMC causes issues, its pretty common that it takes out the rear caliper mounting bracket along with it.
You'll need to inspect the stopper plug hole (looking for flutes, or spiral markings inside it) and checking the condition of the ledge that the front clip rests in.
If it is worn away, cauing the clip to wiggle/tilt, this must be replaced as well.
Your pedal being slow to come back up, indicates that the fluid is not returning through the small ports in the pack of the SMC causing pressure to build up.

 

[easy rider]

If I understand what you stated correctly, you "overhauled" the left side sub assembly (SMC)? and calipers?
If so, that may be your problem.
Just looking inside the bore, or replacing a rebuild kit, often will not correct the issues, as the cartridge on the rear of the unit that filters the return port will get clogged up, and build up pressure, causing the brakes to drag etc.
Also, once your SMC causes issues, its pretty common that it takes out the rear caliper mounting bracket along with it.
You'll need to inspect the stopper plug hole (looking for flutes, or spiral markings inside it) and checking the condition of the ledge that the front clip rests in.
If it is worn away, cauing the clip to wiggle/tilt, this must be replaced as well.
Your pedal being slow to come back up, indicates that the fluid is not returning through the small ports in the pack of the SMC causing pressure to build up.

Thank you for your help that at least explains the reason the bracket has snapped only just noticed it so not sure when it broke.
Will keep you updated.

 

[easy rider]

Am I best just ordering a new rear SMC and also replacing the front left SMC sub assembly as from what i have read these two parts on the internet if not rebuilt or if there is any blockages with the small holes it can be the cause of brakes sticking . Right now if you use the brake pedal it drops and the rear brake sticks and the pedal comes back really slowly.
If you pull the pedal up manually that frees the brake. First thing in the morning the rear brake is on back wheel struggles to move.
I wanted the brakes overhauling due to all the problems with the bike being over 15 years old.

From the beginning issues began with rear wheel drag so they rebuilt both the rear and front left hand side SMC and replaced roller bearing on front left SMC sub assembly as that was shot then all was fine for a while. Then my right front calliper would stick and has scorched the brake disc. I then got them to replace the master cylinder for the front brake on the handle bar and brakes system was bled which did remove some air as the front brake lever was really spongy.
Now the brakes sticking has transferred to the back wheel and as i said above the swing arm bracket is broken which is most likely due to pressure build in the lines confirmed by igofar. So moving forward is it just best to replace the master cylinder parts front left and rear pedal as whole parts to go straight on instead of messing with rebuilding? Spent to much time going backwards and forwards just need a solution now as my bikes my main transport and riding with my brakes like this is a worry. I am handy at doing most things on my bike myself but never really like to mess with the brakes though I am sure with a little understanding i could. This last two years has been a never ending cost with the bike with overhauling everthing thing is i am too far down the road now to give up on it and I am sure the brakes can be fixed its just working it out. Its been an amazing bike been to hell and back on this thing not giving up on her just yet.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

If you have determined that your SMC (on the left front fork) is defective, in your situation I would;
- Replace the SMC. If it is shot it can cause all sorts of brake problems. If it is defective, don't waste your time rebuilding it, replace it with a new assembly.
- Perform a thorough inspection of the rest of the brake system at the same time and correct any defects found and clean and lube parts as required.
- Do a THOROUGH brake flush and bleed using the correct procedure. **
- Perform a functional test of each brake caliper and do a road test to see how everything works.

The results of the last step will determine if/what further action is required. If your SMC is defective, replacing other parts first will achieve nothing unless it is known up front that they are also defective and need replacing.

** I prefer to do a quick flush before removing the old SMC to remove as much crap from the system as I can before installing the new SMC. Hopefully this lessens the chance of any crap getting in to the new SMC.

 

[Jethro]

Simple Simon says “is your brake foot pedal free & lubed up”

 

[SupraSabre]

Another weak point in the rear brake system is the rear caliper mount. For some reason they can get twisted and cause issues.

I had one go bad on my 2010.

 

[jfheath]

Am I best just ordering a new rear SMC and also replacing the front left SMC sub assembly....

Just to avoid any confusion - the SMC is a master cylinder that provides pressure into the brake fluid in order to operate the pistons in the brake caliper. It acts exactly like the rear pedal master cylinder and the front brake lever master cylinder...

Except ..... The Secondary Master Cylinder is an integral part of the caliper bracket for the front left brake caliper, and it operates automatically when the front left brake is applied.

There is no such thing as a rear SMC. i assume you are thinking of the rear caliper bracket ?

But yes - if you think that the SMC on the front left fork is the issue, then replace that as a whole -as opposed to just a service kit.
The rear caliper bracket shows particular wear features if it is causing an issue which you can use to investigate. By the time I get to my PC to provide links and photos, someone else will have beaten me to it!

 

[Barnabasb90]

I am having issues with my rear caliper in that it is seizing on after applying brake pedal. I have replaced the seals on all three calipers with no leaks and good pressure. One anomally seems to be that the brake pedal operates the 2 out pistons on the rear caliper. As I understand it only the centre should be operated.

 

[970mike]

I am having issues with my rear caliper in that it is seizing on after applying brake pedal. I have replaced the seals on all three calipers with no leaks and good pressure. One anomally seems to be that the brake pedal operates the 2 out pistons on the rear caliper. As I understand it only the centre should be operated.

Contact @Igofar He can point you in the right direction to repair this.

 

[Barnabasb90]

Hi

I noticed my rear wheel would be stuck on when the rear brake pedal is applied.

After closer inspection i noticed the clamp that is nearest to the rear calliper that holds the brake line hoses and pipes secure to the swing arm has
snapped complete off and is not replaceable as it is apart of the swing arm so i secured it back to the wing arm with zip ties which for now has worked and the rear brake is running free again.
Would not have thought it would have made any difference but for some reason it has just hope the ties hold as its not far from the exhaust.

Can't believe its snapped away leaving the brake lines and pipes about an inch away from the swing arm.

Has this happened to anyone else and whats your thoughts on why the lines not being secured to the swing arm effect the rear brake.

I can see there are three points along the swing arm where the brake line tubes and hoses are secured just can't believe its snapped off.

thanks

 

[Barnabasb90]

Looked at mine today and its the same. I note when trying to manourver the caliper its easy to put the bracket under pressure. it looks like the joining post in which the rigid brake line and flexible are connected should bolt to the welded upright on the swinging arm. It may be possible to drill out what remains of the old bolt and replace with nut and bolt. In mean time I will be using a thick zip tie.

 

[easy rider]

Looked at mine today and its the same. I note when trying to manourver the caliper its easy to put the bracket under pressure. it looks like the joining post in which the rigid brake line and flexible are connected should bolt to the welded upright on the swinging arm. It may be possible to drill out what remains of the old bolt and replace with nut and bolt. In mean time I will be using a thick zip tie.

Not just me then! The zip ties seem to be doing the job so it should be fine you can get the long zip ties and loop it under and over or connect two together I used two ties one each side of the block on the metal bolts / joints don't compress on the hoses and just gently pulled the ties in until it was secured snugly to the swing arm, failing that its a weld job or a second hand swing arm which i will do when I look at the u joint. Seems to be fine and believe it or not after taking the side off to access the brake pedal mechanism and getting plenty of grease and lubrication and working the pedal it seems to have fixed my rear brake sticking its been fine since and it does not require hulk strength to back the bike out of the garage in the morning she just rolls out. If it plays up again i will replace both rear master cylinder and secondary master cylinder out full assembly no messing both have been rebuilt using the kits but the assembly could be knackered. Callipers are fine and lines are fine. my next expensive job is 02 sensors to be replaced and delkivic down pipes. hopefully i can get back to just riding soon its like a full rebuild most months but she is getting old so to be expected. It's good having this forum, great place to share views and get help and support would be lost without it over the years.

Best wishes Martin