Rear caliper and bracket help!!

[Rob20111]

So I have a 2000 st1100. In the process of taking the rear tire out... I unscrewed the caliper both that goes to the bracket now.... I cant seem to screw it back in as it feels cross threaded. Now I'm able to screw it in about 4 turns and I noticed the rake pads are still able to swing out of the clip. I really need some help and willing to post some pics but I got to get back on the road... btw this is my first time messing with my st

. I just bought it a week ago

I did the same thing.
The fix?
I put some grease on the bolt threads, fingered tightened it till it stopped, then put a socket on it and muscled it on.
Everything lined up fine.

 

[jzmaes1991!]

UPDATE!!!!
Took off the caliper and bracket completely from the bike.... guess I'm gonna pay for that later by bleeding it... but found out it was slightly crossthreaded by one notch in the middle... got it all fixed!!! Thanks for everyone on your input and support. Glad to have this bike... now just for tires and a brake bleed and I'll be on the road again

 

[Bush]

UPDATE!!!!
Took off the caliper and bracket completely from the bike.... guess I'm gonna pay for that later by bleeding it... but found out it was slightly crossthreaded by one notch in the middle... got it all fixed!!! Thanks for everyone on your input and support. Glad to have this bike... now just for tires and a brake bleed and I'll be on the road again

No one has mentioned this yet, so I will suggest you need to get the Honda Service Manual for the bike. Having that, you would have avoided a lot of unnecessary parts removal and the ensuing confusion.

 

[Bikeric]

Well done! Everything you need here!

 

[pmatulew]

Bleeding the ST11 is easy. None of the complication of the later linked systems. If you're still waiting on a tire, see if you can pick up one of the one-way bleeder valves. It will make your life easier. Also make sure your caliper pistons are clean and shiny since you already have it in your hand where it's easy to work on.

 

[GreenZR]

UPDATE!!!!
Took off the caliper and bracket completely from the bike.... guess I'm gonna pay for that later by bleeding it... but found out it was slightly crossthreaded by one notch in the middle... got it all fixed!!! Thanks for everyone on your input and support. Glad to have this bike... now just for tires and a brake bleed and I'll be on the road again

Do you have your tires yet?
Recommend the Bridgestone BT45 (rear) for the front. 110/80 - 18.
Michelin Commander II for the rear. 160/70 - 17.
I can change them if you want.

 

[Al Melkert]

So I have a 2000 st1100. In the process of taking the rear tire out... I unscrewed the caliper both that goes to the bracket now.... I cant seem to screw it back in as it feels cross threaded. Now I'm able to screw it in about 4 turns and I noticed the rake pads are still able to swing out of the clip. I really need some help and willing to post some pics but I got to get back on the road... btw this is my first time messing with my st

. I just bought it a week ago

 

[Al Melkert]

Just went through the same issue. Caliper bolt is easy to strip. Make sure its at a 90 degree.make sure slider clip is in properly.you can install pads after bolt is installed.good luck.

 

[Skin]

Well I realize that I am in the other end of the spectrum with this bike because I’m trying to remove that bolt and I’ve been beating on it with my 3 pound sledge hammer on my boxend ratchet six point because my 12 point snap on wrench striped the head on the bolt!
I still can’t pull the bolt out!
Previous person who did work back there cross threaded it to a new level of incompetence!
I think I have to remove exhaust and put a puller on the bolt, as I cannot pull the wheel or brake calliper off to change the back tire and lube the rear drive!
For sure I will need a new bolt!
If anybody has ANY words of wisdom I’d be willing to hear them!

 

[Igofar]

That stopper bolt has Green Locktite on it from the factory (our version of Red).
Gently take a heat gun and carefully heat the bolt/area up, then apply some PB Blaster (penetrating oil).
The heat will expand things and allow the oil to get in where it needs to be.
If you don't have any PB on hand, mix equal parts of Acetone & Type F ATF fluid.
Also, beating on things won't help, as you've found out, it will simply stretch/round/damage the fastener.
Try using a 6 point box end wrench on the nut, and daisy chain another wrench to that one for leverage.
Apply gentle STEADY pressure, and wait it out, after a few seconds it will release.
As soon as it releases and moves a bit, DON'T keep unscrewing it...screw it back in gently, then unscrew it.
Think of it as cleaning the threads on a tap & die set.

 

[jfheath]

A BIG plus 1 on both heat and on maintaining pressure (not increasing it) until the loctite yields. When I was doing it to hex socket bolts in the bottom of the fork legs, it worked a treat even though the hex socket was about to round off. The loctite turned liquid. A stringy goo. That was after soaking on boiling water.

Larry. @Igofar. For those of us that dont speak loctite colours - is USA red loctite the same as Uk blue loctite ?
Red loctite for us is permanent fixing - or so I understand. I've never had to undo that stopper bolt with anything other than my old long handled torque wrench.

The Difference Between Red, Blue, Green and Purple Threadlockers

Ever get confused about which threadlocker to use? Do you know what the differences are between the red, blue, green and purple threadlocker?

www.henkel-adhesives.com

 

[Skin]

Here is the thing that I ponder about... if I had to remove the rear wheel on the side of the road, I would be screwed! As I don’t carry a heat gun on my bike... lol
I can’t get that wheel off without that bolt sliding out further as the calliper won’t clear the rim. The manual says it can...I don’t see that as possible... close But not on my shift
Thanks guys for the direction of heat.... will Try and will post after my grandson leaves