Rear flange bearing.... someone got their moneys worth

bplandis

2006 ST1300
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Picked up a 2nd bike a while back (2004)... Dad and I have been going through it to make sure it is ready to roll once the weather breaks in IN. Was home over the last few days finishing up work on it. Did rear flange bearings.... here is one of them. Had a few miles left and no doubt throwing money away changing these so early...... other was complete. Has 87K on it so assume these have not been touched.

Enjoy........
 

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CYYJ

Michael
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Had a few miles left and no doubt throwing money away changing these so early....
Absolutely it has life left. Heck, it still has over 50% of the balls left inside it, and the raceway hasn't even broken off yet.

I got over 100,000 miles out of the one pictured below. Once they get down to only 3 or 4 balls left, the wheel will let you know that the bearing needs changing. Those things are expensive - the replacement for the one in the photo below cost me $4! (full story is here: ST 1100 Rear Wheel Bearing Surprise)

Michael

Bearing approaching end of life
Bearing 1.jpg
 

BakerBoy

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Those driven flange bearings go quickly.

Here's a couple pics of mine, July 4 2011, at 39,204 miles, found during a change of the rear tire:
D0093a ST1300 rear driven flange and failed bearings.jpg
D0114a ST1300 rear driven flange and failed bearings.jpg

I previously checked them on Sept 21, 2010, at 32,386 miles, during a rear tire change--the bearings were visually good, and rolled smooth and quiet..

It was quite surprising to see how quickly they can go south.
 

Igofar

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Cbr bearings sells a single unit to replace the two oem bearings. They say it is much more durable.
I've replaced several of the CBR single bearings, as well as the OEM bearings, from just the ones I've replaced, it seems both types fail pretty often on these bikes.
but I'm sure someone will be along in a moment or two and brag about how his went 100,000.000 miles and are still working perfectly :rofl1:
 

CYYJ

Michael
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...I'm sure someone will be along in a moment or two and brag about how his went 100,000.000 miles and are still working perfectly :rofl1:
That's OK, he'll get a real surprise when he checks it the next day at 100,000.001 miles. :)

On a more serious note - when those bearings decide to fail, they really fail quickly. I never get more than 5,000 miles out of a rear tire on my ST 1100, and I always have a close look at the bearings when I change tires. The one pictured at the top of this thread looked fine at the previous tire change. It might be worthwhile for owners to consider proactively replacing these bearings every 50,000 miles or so.

Michael
 

ibike2havefun

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I'm sure someone will be along in a moment or two and brag about how his went 100,000.000 miles and are still working perfectly
That's OK, he'll get a real surprise when he checks it the next day at 100,000.001 miles ... when those bearings decide to fail, they really fail quickly
A friend and have a private joke to similar effect regarding the lifespan of the timing belt on a 1980's vintage Ford Escort. The thing was warrantied for 50,000 miles and would pretty reliably do that. But you were on very thin ice indeed at 50,000.1...

Contrast that with the timing belt on our 1978 diesel Rabbit. My dad knew that the valves and the piston occupied the same space, albeit at different moments when the engine was properly timed. He call VW North America and talked to the service rep there about that belt.

"It’s a premium belt, and should last the life of the engine.", the guy told him.

"If you mean by that, that the life of the engine is over when the belt breaks, that isn't very reassuring."

"Oh! No sir, that wasn't what I meant."
 
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I've replaced several of the CBR single bearings, as well as the OEM bearings, from just the ones I've replaced, it seems both types fail pretty often on these bikes.
but I'm sure someone will be along in a moment or two and brag about how his went 100,000.000 miles and are still working perfectly :rofl1:
Any similarities in the failures? I know you have some pretty brutal heat during the summer. Could that have something to do with the failures? Which bearings do you recommend? I usually replace parts on my bike with OEM unless they are unavailable or something better comes along.
 

Igofar

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Types of failures....well, the OEM bearings usually start coming apart and loose balls and bits of the cage that holds them etc.
The CBR and Wide single type bearings and/or roller type bearings lock up, and I've had them fall out of the assembly when the wheel was removed.
Like you, I've just been using the OEM bearings, and check them at EVERY tire change very closely, and replace them at every other tire change usually.
 
Joined
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Types of failures....well, the OEM bearings usually start coming apart and loose balls and bits of the cage that holds them etc.
The CBR and Wide single type bearings and/or roller type bearings lock up, and I've had them fall out of the assembly when the wheel was removed.
Like you, I've just been using the OEM bearings, and check them at EVERY tire change very closely, and replace them at every other tire change usually.
Perfect! I am at the second tire change and was contemplating just changing them out for piece of mind. Thank you!
 

Igofar

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You should take a couple minutes and call me on the white courtesy phone and I can explain how to make your motor better than everyone else's ;)
 

Sadlsor

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I've only changed my tire once so far (OK, twice but that was due to a flat very early on, with my first replacement - and it's going back on the bike).
I carefully checked the moly situation at the hub, and wiped the (new-ish) grease off and replaced with new moly. The bearings looked good (as one would hope, with only 16K miles!) and had no play.
Now with all this said (I always take too long to wind up before the pitch), how many bearings should there actually be, originally?
I didn't count them, but don't recall big empty spaces, and there was no discernible metallic bits in the grease I wiped out of the hub or other pieces. Is the race supposed to be filled all 'round? I want to be proactive, but I don't wish to add new parts when unnecessary.
Thanks.
 

STRider

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Wow! Has me glad to have the 1300 to ride while I give the 1100 the what for.

Flange bearings, vacuum lines, radiator hoses, timing belt & water pump bearings...

jeez! It's like you gotta spend money to keep these things on the road!
 

jfheath

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I didn't count them, but don't recall big empty spaces, and there was no discernible metallic bits in the grease I wiped out of the hub or other pieces. Is the race supposed to be filled all 'round? I want to be proactive, but I don't wish to add new parts when unnecessary.
Thanks.
The answer is 13. The metal cage keeps the balls separated by some distance - nothing like the bearings used in wheels, pedals and cranks of the pushbikes that I had in my youth. Typically, the cage fails before the balls. It is a mystery where the bits go. It would make a good bit of post graduate research.

See this old but excellent post from @Mellow. Look at the photos.

 

STRider

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That bearing also reminds me of my first catastrophic breakdown on my 83 V45 Interceptor sometime in the mid-80s.

During a long weekend ride from Vermont to Cape Cod, the rear end of the bike began wobbling for lack of a better word. Found that the sprocket side wheel bearing had completely self destructed. Less than 20k mi on the bike. Fast forward through begging a shop to stay open and help me source a bearing at 5 o'clock on a Saturday afternoon, limping to the home of my riding partner's in-laws in Taunton. Mass, pounding out the old and pounding in the new.

I'm okay with taking the blame from inexperience and overzealous high pressure car wash cleaning of my new baby.
 

Igofar

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I found (2) bearings, and the remnants of a third one, in an 07 that the dealer replaced the flange bearings in. There were enough pieces in there to make almost a complete bearing...floating around inside!
One bearing was destroyed and "missing" and one was removed. The dealer pulled the one bearing out, and replaced the 2 correct parts, but didn't go to the trouble to find the destroyed one stuck in all the green wheel bearing grease all over everything!
 
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