Rear Luggage Tip-Over/Crash Bars?

[Larry Fine]

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[motornut]

I have had a T Rex system mounted on my Concours when I rear ended a pickup truck. It was my fault as I was in slow traffic and gazing at the landscape not paying attention.
They worked well since it was a slow speed collision and only suffered some damage to the left pannier from the bar moving into it. That was easily repaired. I did destroy the front fender , headlight and the surrounding body work.
The fit and finish was good and the only complaint I have is how maintenance was more complicated, which really is no complaint at all. The system was a complete system and very well designed in my opinion and I have no qualms about buying from them again. To expect no damage from what I did would be wrong and I sustained significant less damage because of their system.
The increased width of the bike is something to think about and made it more of a freeway ride rather than around town in tighter traffic, but that is me and only me.

 

[SupraSabre]

Too bad I saw this thread too late!

I pulled a set of tipover bars off that 2005 I got from Larry (That 2005 in Arizona)



These are what I have on my 2012:

 

[geoqwest]

Holy Crap!

Those T-Rex ones defiantly differentiate the definition of tip over bars to crash bars.

I have motorcyclelarry.com (2007ish and long gone today) bars on mine that are good for the embarrassing tip overs at Walmart but not much more.

Edited: Hey SupraSabre...we posted the same within minutes of each other. My ST has a bunch of motorcyclelarry farkles..all good additions.

 

[SupraSabre]

Holy Crap!

Those T-Rex ones defiantly differentiate the definition of tip over bars to crash bars.

I have motorcyclelarry.com (2007ish and long gone today) bars on mine that are good for the embarrassing tip overs at Walmart but not much more.

Edited: Hey SupraSabre...we posted the same within minutes of each other. My ST has a bunch of motorcyclelarry farkles..all good additions.

Until I saw your post, I wasn't sure of the maker of these I pulled off the 2005.But they look just like yours! So I will assume they are MCL's! Thanks for sharing!

 

[Nexus]

Problem with the T-Rex ones is that you can no longer have a pillion ride with you since you need to remove the foot pegs. The GW bars work well but, as others have said, they are a PIA to install. Since they bend back they seem to give the pillion a bit more room than some of the straight ones. The GWs with a bracket are, IMHO, the best.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

The GW bars work well but, as others have said, they are a PIA to install.

For those who have a lift table, or anything else solid to put under the motorcycle that a ratchet strap can be attached to, I found another way to compress the GW bars that is much easier than using a vice and trying to hold them in the correct position with clamps.

Install the lower bolt first and tighten it just enough to hold it in the position that you need to get the top bolt inserted. Wrap a rag around the top of the bar to protect the finish. Attach a ratchet strap to the lift table and wrap it around the top of the GW bar. Tighten the strap and cinch the top of the bar downward until the bolt mounting hole lines up with the threaded hole in the step frame. Have a pry bar of some sort at the ready to move the bar left or right as required to get it in to alignment. The strap makes easy work of it and allows you to draw it in exactly where you need it to be to get the top bolt inserted.

 

[Larry Fine]

Attach a ratchet strap to the lift table and wrap it around the top of the GW bar.

Is there a reason you couldn't just wrap the strap around the two ends of the bar?

 

[bignslo]

Up to 10 years ago, Bygdog made the crash bars I favored on all three of my STs. He's no longer in that business . . . I checked! Now I'm looking for something to protect my 'new' ST.

Searching on the site and online I've found bars made by T-Rex Racing, waase and descriptions of modifying bars made for other bikes. Didn't find reviews here from anyone who put them on their ST.

So, anyone found anything recently to recommend? I'm only interested in the rear guards to protect the tank bags.

Thanks all,

Shuey

I put the T-Rex on mine and like the fact that you could replace the aluminum pad if you have a bad tip-over. I did have to grind/shave some of the pad off for clearance when opening panniers

 

[motornut]

I was mistaken by calling the bars crash bars, really all you can expect is tip over protection, which is why I put them on the Connie. Picking it up was the most difficult thing I had ever done. It is tall and as soon as the front wheel touched I was chasing in circles. now I carry a tie strap to lock brake and that guarantees I won't drop it again

 

[Larry Fine]

https://www.motobikejack.com/

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Is there a reason you couldn't just wrap the strap around the two ends of the bar?

The distance between the two open ends of the bar is only a few inches. Any ratchet strap that has a crank assembly small enough to allow it to compress the two ends close enough together I doubt would be strong enough to do it, even if ratchet straps that small exist.

 

[Larry Fine]

I pictured maybe wrapping it twice. I'll keep thinking about it.

Okay, I thought about it. Would a spring compressor work?

 

[ST1100Y]

I'm aware that you guys like those steel-ornaments sticking out the side...
But frankly, I wouldn't like to get my ankle/lower leg pinched and pinned down by those during a U-turn/parking lot mishap...
MHO...

 

[Sadlsor]

It would take some contortions for a rider's foot or ankle to be pinned to the ground that far behind us, in a low- speed drop, I would think.
In far more cases, the same bars should act more as a standoff, giving you an added inch or two between your foot or leg and the ground, seems to me.
In any event, as a fall is basically unexpected and the landing unpredictable, it will always be "possible" for us to get pinned under a bike somehow, especially larger and heavier motorbikes.
But it will always be OK, if we just remember to... keep the rubber side down.

 

[Nexus]

Install the lower bolt first and tighten it just enough to hold it in the position that you need to get the top bolt inserted. Wrap a rag around the top of the bar to protect the finish. Attach a ratchet strap to the lift table and wrap it around the top of the GW bar. Tighten the strap and cinch the top of the bar downward until the bolt mounting hole lines up with the threaded hole in the step frame. Have a pry bar of some sort at the ready to move the bar left or right as required to get it in to alignment. The strap makes easy work of it and allows you to draw it in exactly where you need it to be to get the top bolt inserted.

Now you tell me! I could've justified a lift table!

If anyone is interested in the T-Rex bars, I have a barely used pair I could dig out. Hit me up.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

Okay, I thought about it. Would a spring compressor work?

I don't see why not, as long as they can be kept away from contacting the body/frame anywhere and causing damage.

 

[Andrew Shadow]

I'm aware that you guys like those steel-ornaments sticking out the side...
But frankly, I wouldn't like to get my ankle/lower leg pinched and pinned down by those during a U-turn/parking lot mishap...
MHO...

I have read of, and have personally seen, someone get their foot caught under an ST1300 when it was dropped. I suggest to you that the very small surface area of these bars in conjunction with where they are situated makes the risk of getting your foot pinned under them extremely small and unlikely. That minimal risk is far outweighed by the protection offered to your foot by the much more likely risk of getting your foot pinned under the motorcycle itself. If your foot gets pinned under the catalytic converter you further risk serious burns on top of physical injuries. In the incident that I witnessed the rider was very fortunate that he was wearing very heavy thick off-road riding boots. There was rather significant damage to the boot where it was melted, but his foot did not get burned. Lesson learned. Not long after we both installed Goldwing bars.

 

[motornut]

I have a stretch band with velcro ends to lock the front brake and the bars I put on was intended to get the bike off the ground far enough to give a start lifting. I am thinking of using a strap that I can attach lower on the downside frame when lifting to get more leverage and be able to stand up more when lifting it. And when it was down they worked as intended.
If it works OK I will take pictures. I am thinking of something I can hook to a lower part of the frame on the downside and lift better. The problem I ran into with the Connie was the rear grab handle is too far back to use well for lifting, my arms felt like they were to spread out so I could not lift with the front or the back well.
The ST is easier.... when I was younger....... because of the location of the rear grab handles.

 

[Sadlsor]

Ensuring the bike is in gear before lifting, preferably 1st, obviates the need for a front brake mechanism.