relay, Schottky diode, bridge rectifier or mosfet?

Obo

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I'm working on a combination of projects and want to make a tweak to it but wondering if there's an easier way.
As I'm not really familiar with 2 of the components perhaps someone can chime in with their 2 cents.

Background:

Just installed dual horns, fed off a 4 pin relay.
I'd like to have the high beam circuit activate when the horns are activated.
Obviously I need to isolate the headlight high beam from the horns so the horns activate the high beam but the high beam doesn't activate the horns!

I can accomplish this isolation via a 5 pin relay but thought a diode would be a smaller and easier replacement.
Relays and bridge rectifiers I'm familiar with, a Schottky diode should be just a diode (yes with some special properties) and I've never used FET's before.
I likely have some of all kicking around in my goodie box of electrical components.
A 5 pin relay would work fine, a bridge rectifier is overkill, and I'm uncertain about the Schottky & FET suitability.

As a bit of an extra explanation of the diagrams, headlight bulbs have been replace with F2 leds. 72w each.
I've also bought switchback DRL's (the small zmoons) I'm going to fork mount.

1683980931065.png

The plan for those is to use the amber LED emitters tied to my bike's low beam and the white LED emitter tied to the high beam.
I'll use a 5 pin relay for that with the amber LED on the normal closed loop and have the high beam trigger the relay to switch to the white LED instead.
Feed power to the 5 pin relay with have a master on/off switch and be fed from a switched power supply. They draw about 60w max for the pair. (30w per color per light)

I might also put a strobe unit in to make the high beam actually flash and the DRL's alternate from yellow to white while the horns are activated, but that's out of scope for this discussion and not in the diagrams.

If I do a 5 pin relay for the high beam headlight flash I'm thinking this: Horn button activates the new horn relay sending power to the horns and the flasher relay which illuminates the high beams and switches the amber DRL to white as well. The relay is wired so the regular high beam circuit is always active from the headlight switch.


1e.jpg

Edit: Above is an old diagram. See the "new" diagram further on below.
Still used 3 relays (1 horn, 1 headlight, 1 driving light.)
Added a bridge rectifier to prevent a feedback circuit and rerouted the headlight flasher power from the low beam circuit, not the high beam as per above.


That's it.

Please pick away at any flaws you see, or add any suggestions you care to make.
 
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All you need is a one wire, like in your first diagram. Simply connect it from the horn relay's switched hot (either switched 12v+ from the horn button (terminal 85) or the horn wire (terminal 87)) to trigger the coil of the light-switching relay.

(Modified: you don't need a diode.)
 
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Obo

Obo

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The headlight high & low beams are using stock wiring with no extra relays.

Without a diode, wouldn't the high beam activate the horns every time I switched the high beam on?

I have a new relay for the dual horns. That relay is triggered from the OEM horn wiring.

I have a new relay for just the driving lights, triggered by the bikes OEM high beam wire.

I want the bikes high beam to activate with the horn (which in turn will also switch the driving lights from amber to white.)
I'm hoping to just connect to the high beam wire at the bulb.
 
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Without a diode, wouldn't the high beam activate the horns every time I switched the high beam on?
Absolutely correct. I forgot about that.

To correct my correction, yes, a 1N4001 (1a, 50v) or IN4002 (1a, 100v) diode will work perfectly.
 
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ST Gui

240Robert
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The horn button activates the horn and the high beam
YES! Awesome!
I mentioned wanting to do that some time ago. I'm glad to see that someone is doing it and look forward to a YT video showing your customization prowess!
:bigpop:
 
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Obo

Obo

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@Larry Fine is a 1A diode really sufficient?

If the headlight is ~72w @ 12v that's a 6 amp draw.

edit : message and image deleted to not run future viewers astray.
 
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@Larry Fine is a 1A diode really sufficient?

If the headlight is ~72w @ 12v that's a 6 amp draw.

As per below, when the horn button is pressed it will activate the new dual horn relay AND then send power to the high beam LED directly (plus trigger the DRL relay)

View attachment 312428
You should wire the diode to trigger the relay (term. 30) for the bulb, not the bulb directly.
 
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Obo

Obo

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Well since I'm totally confused now I'll just go with my original plan and use a 5 pin relay. I know that will work.
 
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Well since I'm totally confused now I'll just go with my original plan and use a 5 pin relay. I know that will work.
I'm sorry for the confusion. The diode triggering the existing lighting relay really is all you need.
 

Willsmotorcycle

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This is from when I put a diode in for the third brake light. It’s similar to your horn to high beam. Not saying it’s easier, but it was easy.
 
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Kevcules

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It will be functional, but likely not pretty.
Function over fashion wins every time! Especially as we age gracefully. Not saying we're old here. :)

Again.....Thanks Mr. Larry Fine for being an excellent resource!
 
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Obo

Obo

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So, for anyone who's curious the job is sort of complete.

It's spun to include an upgrade the power distribution with an aux fuse panel in the tail and upgrade the trailer relays, but that's out of scope of this thread's context.

IMG_4126.JPG

This was about having headlights & dual color driving lights flash with the horn. That's been successfully achieved.

I'll post the updated wiring diagram for anyone who's interested once I make it nice and neat. Here's the rough one.

IMG_4125.JPG

Here's a photo of the work in progress, and the last completed shot. I even ran two extra wires (coiled) for future use, such as mirror mounted driving/passing lights.

Like I said, it would be functional - but not pretty!

Work in progress. Love me some alligator clips!
IMG_4113.JPG

Final state:
IMG_4124.JPG

In a nutshell it works as follows.

When the low beam is on the driving lights are yellow.
When the high beams is on the driving lights are white.
I have an over ride switch to turn them off if needed.
Horn was upgraded to dual Fiamm Freeway Blasters. Sounds like a car now!
When you press the horn and you have the low beams on, one headlight flips to the high beam (the other stays on low) and the driving lights flip from yellow to white.
When you press the horn and you have the high beams on, nothing happens. That's by design as if I'm running high beams it will be night and if they can't see me with the F2 LED headlight bulbs and driving lights then they hopefully will hear me with the dual horns!

I'll post a video showing it's operation when I get a chance.

Items required:
(1) 4 pin relays
(2) 5 pin relays
(1) bridge rectifier
(1) waterproof switch
(1) set M & F ends for the H4 headlight plugs
assorted wire, zip ties, female spade ends, crimper, heat shrink, wire loom & other odds and ends to make it fit and mount decent-ish.

1685112905505.png
 
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Obo

Obo

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One could easily enough make both of the direction signals flash using 2 diodes and the dual horn relay if you didn't want to go though all the rest. Lots of options.

The feeds below to the "signals" could go to most any LED light or relay to make whatever device turn on with the horn. The diodes just prevent and backward travel of that device's power so turning it on doesn't also make the horns blare.

Think of a diode as a one way gate. Power can go one way only.

diodes.png
 
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