remote battery disconnect...

[ST1100Y]

...anyone tried those yet?

Amazon.com : remote battery disconnect switch

As a fella who's suffering actual winter, I'm tempted...

The smaller ones seem fit to be hidden behind the OEM fuse-box, and simple enough to switch back in case the bugger fails...

 

[ST1100Y]

Currently running a test on the kitchen counter, attached the device to a fully charged Deespaek YTX-14BS (featuring an embedded voltmeter) and activated the OFF function to see how many days or weeks it'll take to flatten the battery... we'll see...

 

[motornut]

At 200 to 250 amp load it should be perfect for ST application, I have used battery disconnect in transit, but they were knife switches. This looks like it would be excellent and I am going to do some checking too.
Let us know how it goes, try snapping it on and off with a light load while checking voltage drop. I own several bikes that would probably disappear to parts if stolen and this is one way of protecting them

 

[SMSW]

Aside from having to reset the clock, I don't see any problems with installing one of these. Well, on second thought, finding enough space for the relay or switch could be a problem. The supplied wires do not look very long so you would have to make up your own - use wire at least as heavy as the OEM wires.

 

[ST1100Y]

Aside from having to reset the clock, I don't see any problems with installing one of these. Well, on second thought, finding enough space for the relay or switch could be a problem. The supplied wires do not look very long so you would have to make up your own - use wire at least as heavy as the OEM wires.

Way ahead of you...

crimps, fat gauge wires, the whole shebang...
(need to replace the '94 ST1100 ground wire, or at least the crimp on the engine case, anyway...)

 

[motornut]

I have bought 2 disconnects and are going to install them on 2 bikes. I wonder how secure the remotes signals are, don't want to have them interfered by keyless ignitions in close proximity. I will share if anything happens

 

[Andrew Shadow]

What is the primary goal of this- theft protection or battery preservation?

 

[ST1100Y]

What is the primary goal of this- theft protection or battery preservation?

For me its the latter...

 

[SMSW]

Asking out of curiosity because unless this is for very long-term storage I have never had a need for this.

I don't think anyone has had a need for this. How many guys have installed a full disconnect switch on their bikes? For long term storage, everything I've read suggests removing the battery, putting it in a cool dry place (not cold) and connecting the battery to a battery maintainer. Lithium types should be discharged to 60% (this was in the instructions for my Shorai and their charger would do this - other brands perhaps not).

 

[ST1100Y]

Methinks we've been over this in the past, but anyway

- got a Sony car stereo installed in both ST's, station & settings memory are parasitic load
- due climate/weather as well as job reasons bikes can be grounded for months at a time
- disconnecting the battery involves removing seat, LH pannier, gathering tools to unscrewing side panel fasteners, remove panel, remove ground cable...
I live in a building complex, vehicles parked in a huge underground garage, curious folks passing by, UN-mastered kids, (diesel) dust collecting, etc...

Disconnecting the battery by simply clicking on a fob would be a very convenient method...

Another method I'm looking at is using a conventional, mechanical battery disconnect switch, but replacing the toggle screw with a JIS/PH #3 and fumbling with the screwdriver through the gap between frame and side panel (still need to remove the seat, get a flashlight and named screwdriver though...)

Both methods, electrical as mechanical will further have to proof reliability in daily use down the road... hence must be easily rebuild-able with onboard tools in case of issues...

If this experiment proofs successful, I might even consider returning to conventional AGM batteries, but since those suckers always die of sulfatation I kinda fed up with those...

 

[Al st1100]

"Can a battery go bad from sitting too long?
Batteries can self-discharge over time, and if they are left unused for too long, they can lose their ability to hold a charge. It's generally recommended to use or recharge a battery at least every few months to prevent it from deteriorating. Yes, and it happens all the time"
Don't over think it. If your that worried about it get a battery tender. Much cheaper than a hydraulic crimper, cable ends and a switch.

 

[Al st1100]

Currently running a test on the kitchen counter, attached the device to a fully charged Deespaek YTX-14BS (featuring an embedded voltmeter) and activated the OFF function to see how many days or weeks it'll take to flatten the battery... we'll see...

read the bottom line from Deespaek 2 years ??

• →※ Backed by a 30 day refund policy and 1 Year non-human damage free warranty service. It is recommended to replace the battery every two years to prevent the motorcycle from failing to start. We aim for quality followed up with quality customer service, Amazon doesn't deal with the return of battery-related products, so please contact the seller directly.DEESPAEK support team is on standby for YOU.

 

[SMSW]

Disconnecting the battery by simply clicking on a fob would be a very convenient method...

I would think that too would be a parasitic load and if you let the bike(s) sit for months on end, it doesn't solve your problem. Your suggestion of the switch/screwdriver actuation makes much more sense. Ideally you could put a piece of pipe over the Philips screw head to guide the screw driver with only a 1/4" hole (ok, 6mm or there abouts) in the bodywork. Think of how they turn on or off gas or water to a house. Under a cover a pipe leads down to the valve so the utility guy only has to drop the tool down onto the petcock and twist. No muss no fuss...unless the valve is frozen.

 

[ST1100Y]

Alright, it's been a week...
Starting voltage: 13.7V (LiFoPO4 fully charged)
Settled down to 13.3V after 3 days, still sits at this rate...

TBC

 

[ST1100Y]

Two weeks, 13,2V...
ain't much but draws a little...

 

[ST1100Y]

FWIW, still 13,1V...

 

[Superdirk]

The relay suggested in the original post is rated at 200 Amps. I expect the current peaks during cranking are much higher. Not sure if 5uA standby current for a disconnect relay prevents discharge over a long time.

I also suffer from battery drain (the orignal Hondaline radio is the worst culprit, my nokia car-kit the HISS led (ok, it can be switched off) and other paraphinalia take about 3 weeks to drain the battery in my case. I considered installing a mechanical switch but never got round to it..

 

[ST1100Y]

FWIW: 12,9V...
I intend letting it run down to 12,7V and do the hat-trick: check if the battery still has enough juice to start the ST...

I also suffer from battery drain (the orignal Hondaline radio is the worst culprit, my nokia car-kit the HISS led (ok, it can be switched off) and other paraphinalia take about 3 weeks to drain the battery in my case. I considered installing a mechanical switch but never got round to it...

HISS doesn't seem to be an issue, my GF's NT700VA has a NOCO LiFePO4 and cranked just fine after being parked from end of November till first week of February... (and that EFI V-twin requires quite some toque to overcome the TDC/compression points...)
The CARK91 (or whatever you're using) could be connected to a switched circuit...

A stereo station/settings memory however is an issue; connect both + (yellow and red) to switched and that stereo won't awake at all (at least my Sony doesn't)

Considered the manual/mechanical disconnect, but fear it coming loose while riding... (and still having to remove the side panel is also not too inviting...)
OTOH I haven't yet even figured if that remote thingy will even fit aside the fuse box inside the fender... how fail-safe is it (unintentional de/activation by the fob inside the pocket), will it suffer corrosion issues due to humidity, etc...

I do however consider one of their car-types for my '96 Toyota though... that rig will soon be grounded till Nov/Dec once I start commuting with the ST's...

 

[ST Gui]

Not sure if 5uA standby current for a disconnect relay prevents discharge over a long time.

It would be easy to say "it depends' on how long a "long time" is. 5µA is notably a lesser drain than the 2mA the clock draws.

My ST1300 would start after three months sitting without a charge other than that of the last ride. I got a Tender for it when I found out that playing with adding lights quickly kills the battery. There are variables to consider such as ambient temperature and the age of the battery. Those alone might reduce whatever delta between 5µA and 2mA to 15min. It depends.

 

[SMSW]

Considered the manual/mechanical disconnect, but fear it coming loose while riding...
OTOH I haven't yet even figured if that remote thingy will even fit aside the fuse box inside the fender... how fail-safe is it (unintentional de/activation by the fob inside the pocket),

Manual disconnects have been around for quite a while and have been installed on a variety of vehicles. My understanding is that they are reliable, but who knows what the MTBF is for a group of unnamed, multi brands of disconnects? Since these disconnects are nothing more than a heavy duty switch I think they are as reliable as the various switches you find on your bike. How many of those have failed and shut off your bike while you were riding it? Your other considerations (fit, ease of use) are more valid, I think. You have taken care of one potential problem with the hydraulic crimper.* Don't eliminate a good mechanical solution by imagining failure modes.

A remote system is more complex, with more chances for errors. I've locked/unlocked/sounded the alarm on our car inadvertently when change or keys in my pocket pressed the fob's button. Could this happen when you are tooling down the autobahn at 220 km/hr? Of course. Unless you have a fob with audible or visual confirmation, how will you really know you disconnected the battery? I have a security system that I can arm with a remote handheld device, and when the system arms, it sends a signal to the remote which gives me two beeps and a red LED. I'd guess my system costs far more than you would want to spend....

*Technically, crimp fittings have to be UL approved to work with a given tool or die system to be used by licensed electricians in the US. I doubt your $40 hyd. crimper has those certifications, but I also have no doubt it will work perfectly well and give you long lasting, reliable crimps.