Removing cables from throttle assembly

[skinl19]

I was adding risers to my ST1100 and the throttle cables are a little too tight. I want to disconnect them from the throttle tube and run the cables behind the fork. I haven't taken the assembly apart yet but what is involved in removing the cables from the tube?

 

[Capital]

When i had to diaconnect them from the handle, I renoved them at carbs to set them free (2 screws holding adjustment plate). Not sure if there is a smarter way.

 

[skinl19]

I was hoping to not have to mess with the carbs but not sure if there would be enough slack otherwise.

 

[kiltman]

I found it easier to remove the handlebars, and thus move the bars to the left which allowed me to slide the throttle tube off the bars. Then I simple unhooked them from the tube. (You will need to take the control pod apart as well and slacken off the cable tensioners)

 

[STRider]

I found it easier to remove the handlebars, and thus move the bars to the left which allowed me to slide the throttle tube off the bars. Then I simple unhooked them from the tube. (You will need to take the control pod apart as well and slacken off the cable tensioners)

This is the way...

 

[dwalby]

If you have to split the throttle housing in two anyway, by removing the 2 or 3 screws on the bottom of the housing, I don't understand why it helps to remove the bars first and slide the housing off the bars. It comes off the bars when you split the housing, so what am I missing?

 

[Larry Fine]

When I replaced the original clamps below my Helibars with 3" risers, I was able to re-route every cable, hose, and wire bundle working only from the top.

The bike came with the Helibars, so I'm not sure whether any of them are replacements. I also unbolted the brake-hose clamp under the lower triple clamp.

 

[STRider]

If you have to split the throttle housing in two anyway, by removing the 2 or 3 screws on the bottom of the housing, I don't understand why it helps to remove the bars first and slide the housing off the bars. It comes off the bars when you split the housing, so what am I missing?

Yes, the throttle tube slides toward the end of the bar but does not necessarily go far enough to come off at the end.

 

[skinl19]

Yes, the throttle tube slides toward the end of the bar but does not necessarily go far enough to come off at the end.

I still don't understand the need to slide the throttle off vs. taking the pod apart to remove the cables. Unless it is easier to maneuver the cables to finagle the cable ends out of the tube when the bar is not in the way.

 

[kiltman]

Unless it is easier to maneuver the cables to finagle the cable ends out of the tube when the bar is not in the way.

Yes it makes it easier, and quicker. ……It did for me. I’ve had to remove the cables a few times, transferring the GoldWing 1500 pod from one bike to the other. ( I have cruise control)
You have a choice, you can leave the throttle in position and remove the cables from the tube or the way I suggest. Figure it out when you do the project.

 

[dwalby]

Yes, the throttle tube slides toward the end of the bar but does not necessarily go far enough to come off at the end.

oops, I wasn't clear in my original post. The topic is really about removing the throttle cable to re-route it, so when I said "it" comes off the bars when you split the throttle housing I was actually talking about the cable, not the throttle tube, but I wasn't clear in my wording.

I see Kiltman provided his comment that its easier to get that little grey puck on the end of the cable out of the throttle tube while its danging free in the air. I guess that might be true since I haven't done this procedure enough times in my lifetime to have an opinion either way.

 

[Larry Fine]

I dd split the switch housing to remove the cable ends from the throttle tube when I did mine. If I remember correctly, I did not have to take it off the handlebar, but I know I definitely did not remove the bar end. I simply removed the brake and clutch master cylinders from the bars to re-route the hoses as needed.

 

[skinl19]

I dd split the switch housing to remove the cable ends from the throttle tube when I did mine. If I remember correctly, I did not have to take it off the handlebar, but I know I definitely did not remove the bar end. I simply removed the brake and clutch master cylinders from the bars to re-route the hoses as needed.

Fortunately I have enough slack in the hoses but for some reason the cables are tight when installing a 30mm riser. It will work, just too tight for my liking. Maybe the cables aren't routed correctly underneath but rerouting behind the forks would solve the problem. I might try this weekend if the weather is crappy.

 

[Upt' North]

Fortunately I have enough slack in the hoses but for some reason the cables are tight when installing a 30mm riser. It will work, just too tight for my liking. Maybe the cables aren't routed correctly underneath but rerouting behind the forks would solve the problem. I might try this weekend if the weather is crappy.

If there's a way to do it without removing the cables out of the twist grip/switch I would do it. They can be a proper faff to get back in. It won't be rocket science more of a two beer job.
Upt'North.

 

[skinl19]

If there's a way to do it without removing the cables out of the twist grip/switch I would do it. They can be a proper faff to get back in. It won't be rocket science more of a two beer job.
Upt'North.

That's kind of what I was thinking. I may end up pulling off the tank cover first and see if there is some slack there. I need to take the cover off anyway to access the turn signal wiring connector.

 

[Upt' North]

That's kind of what I was thinking. I may end up pulling off the tank cover first and see if there is some slack there. I need to take the cover off anyway to access the turn signal wiring connector.

You'll probably end up removing the fuel shut off, air filter cover and base. All Easy Peasy, but make sure you've got a good screwdriver for the bottom screws, you don't want to round them buggers off. They are captive so shouldn't fall anywhere horrible but keep an eye on the lid screws they've got a mind of their own.
Good luck fella.
Upt'North.

 

[skinl19]

It turns out I didn't have to route the cables behind the fork tubes after all. I had continued to do some searching on the matter and in a thread about removing the cables, someone mentioned that their cables had been run around the air cleaner instead of underneath. I took the bike apart to check and sure enough, my cable were also around the left side of the cleaner. I could see where the molding was in the air cleaner body for the cables to exit and I was able to tuck the cables back under the air cleaner. Just that little bit extra gave me the free play I needed to be comfortable in adding the 30mm risers without worrying about the throttle cables binding.