Article Repairing Gerbing Heated Jacket Glove Connectors

Uncle Phil

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Having just done this with one of my older jacket liners, I thought that it might be of help to someone along the way.

Repairing A Gerbing Jacket Liner Glove Connections

1. You will need -
a. Seam Ripper
b. Sewing Needle And Black Thread
c. Soldering Iron
d. Solder
e. Glove Harness
f. Patience

2. There is a seam in the inside of the jacket line on the left side near the bottom where the tag is stitched in.

Access Seam Closed.jpg

3. Open this seam with a seam ripper to gain access to the wiring inside.
Access Seam Opened.jpg

4. If one glove connector fails like this -
Failed Glove Connector.jpg

the other one will not be far behind it. So I always replace both connectors while I am at it. Clip off the connector and pull it from the inside of the jacket. Make a note of the length from the cut-off end to the knot. You'll need that measurement when you install the new wire. On the original Gerbing Jackets, the wire is stranded 'lamp' wire with soldered joints covered by shrink wrap.

5. With the bad wire removed, take a careful look at the glove harness (which should come with a pair of new gloves. It should have 3 male coax plugs - one for each glove and one to plug into a power source. One of the glove leads will be longer than the other - used it for the right sleeve and the shorter one for the left sleeve since the power connectors are on the left side of the jacket. Clip the glove harness wires as close to the power source connect as you can to maximize harvested wire length. Feed the appropriate glove connector from the outside through the grommet in the jacket. Tie a loose knot in the inside of the jacket sleeve the same length as the old wire that you removed. Pull the new wire to power connection where the old wire is soldered.

Jacket Connection.jpg

6. Remove the heat shrink so the soldered connection is exposed. Clip the two wires of the old glove wire on the opposite side of the solder joint from the old glove wire. Take notice - there should be a 'rib' or marking on the the new wires and the old wires. Pair them up so that they are the same (keeps the outside of the new plug from being the 'hot' one). Strip about 1/4- 3/8 back on the new wires and the power wires. Slip some heat shrink over one side or the other far enough away from the connection so the soldering heat won't make it shrink. Solder the wires together (polarity does not seem to matter to these jackets).

Soldered Wires.jpg

7. Once the soldered connection cools, then slide the heat shrink over the connection and shrink it. Follow the same procedure for the other glove connection.

8. Place all the wire back into the inside of the jacket and sew up the seam.

Note - This same procedure can be used to separate the older jackets where the gloves and the jacket were on the same power connection,. You just have to trace the wire and re-solder the connections so the gloves are on a separate power feed. Also, you can replace the SAE connectors with the newer coax connectors following the same procedure. You might consider also covering the wire and glove connector with a layer of shrink wrap to strengthen the connection at the usual breaking point.



Phil Derryberry
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Nice write up with photos, Phil. Only change I would suggest is to stagger the splices so there is a smaller lump inside the jacket. As you said there is no polarity for a resistance heating element (the wire in the gloves or jacket). However, since the male plug has a cylindrical metal jacket and hole in the center (two connections) you do not want the outside to be positive and live flopping about with no glove attached. The outside should therefore be negative, inside positive.
 
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Great write up on co-ax connector repair. I owned Gerbings heated gear and controllers until switching to Warm n Safe stuff about ten years ago. The co-ax connectors are the same and will eventually fail from use.......so, I have been using shrink tape to double the thickness of the connector and attached lead wires. I replace the shrink tape every few years (looks to be due now) and have not had a connector failure for a long time. I do this to the glove, jacket, and controller connectors. I always carry a spare battery lead wire as they only cost $10.00. I also carry an old, spare single Gerbings controller with a splitter cord in case my double controller fails (which has happened to me once).

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dduelin

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After repairing my Gerbings jacket at home several times (both glove fittings and the main power in) I sent it off to Heated Clothing RX after another wire break, this time in the wire in the right armpit area. I got plenty of wear out of it as it was at least 10 years old but for only about $40 with shipping they replaced the entire interior harness and all 4 fittings. I don’t know the spec of the new wire but it’s very supple and feels quite different from the original lamp cord. The owner of the business and repair tech was the service manager of the old Gerbings outfit.

I just googled the company and it looks like Glyde/Gerbing bought him out. I can’t speak for the service offered but I’m glad I got it done season before last.
 

Jambriwal

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Nice article uncle Phil,
My current HD/Gerbing jacket liner is 15 years old. Sent it back to Gerbing once for repair but one thing wrong they routed the left wire for the glove wrong and I have to stretch the wire to fit. The gloves are not used often but realy appreciated when needed. Perhaps this year I'll attemt to fix it.
Also my gerbing thermostat burned out and replaced it with a heat troller. Claimed to be a better product. This what the Gerbing controller looks like.
Qeustion: where do you buy the new connectors? Trying to find quality electrical connectors even SAE connectors has always been challenging. I run my battery charger on an SAE plug and made an SAE to Pin connector harness so i can plug jacket into the same harness on the motorcycle.
 

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dduelin

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....... Qeustion: where do you buy the new connectors? Trying to find quality electrical connectors even SAE connectors has always been challenging. I run my battery charger on an SAE plug and made an SAE to Pin connector harness so i can plug jacket into the same harness on the motorcycle.
The first repair of this kind I did was to replace a male fitting on a glove connector and ran into difficulty finding singular repair parts. I found that Radio Shack carried 2.5 mm DC coaxial fittings that work for male fittings. In audio catalogs these are called Size N connectors. For confusion, threaded N connectors also exist for RF radio antenna cable. Those are completely different. The N connectors for DC power work for male connectors but the female side fittings are too big and heavy for my taste. For later repairs that required a male fitting I cannibalized Y harnesses from Gerbings.

Lockitt Mobile Security carries various harnesses and connectors that could supply needed parts for common repairs.
 
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Uncle Phil

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Having bought numerous heated gear over the years, I had an extra glove harness laying around. You could probably buy a glove harness from one of the heated gear companies but I'd be surprised if was priced 'reasonably'. I've got two pairs of failed WarmNSafe gloves of the 'micro wire' variety (they are beyond their 1 year warranty - just barely and it's a long discussion). I opened a pair of them up and the wire is so thin it is difficult to do anything with.
 
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Uncle Phil

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Nice write up with photos, Phil. Only change I would suggest is to stagger the splices so there is a smaller lump inside the jacket. As you said there is no polarity for a resistance heating element (the wire in the gloves or jacket). However, since the male plug has a cylindrical metal jacket and hole in the center (two connections) you do not want the outside to be positive and live flopping about with no glove attached. The outside should therefore be negative, inside positive.
That's good but how do you tell which wire is which - continuity test?
 
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Uncle Phil

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Great write up on co-ax connector repair. I owned Gerbings heated gear and controllers until switching to Warm n Safe stuff about ten years ago. The co-ax connectors are the same and will eventually fail from use.......so, I have been using shrink tape to double the thickness of the connector and attached lead wires.
That's a very good idea. I use my heated gear pretty much all winter long as I am a daily rider. I've had the glove connector break like in the picture and blow the fuse in the circuit. The first time it happened (on a long road trip naturally) it took me a while to figure out what was the problem - it's not obvious unless you know where to look. ;) I've added that suggestion to the write up.
 
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I really appreciate this. I've repaired the glove connectors on one liner once already for each glove and the right glove failed yesterday on a long day trip. Luckily, I always bring with me some non-electrical clothing to wear, just in case.

Ordered a new wire harness extension from Cycle Gear last night. $10 with tax, shipped to the store. I'll use that to splice in a new connector again.

For $40, I think I'll send another jacket liner that failed in to HCRX (Gerbing Repairs now) http://www.heatedclothingrx.com to get the entire harness swapped out.

Chris
 
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Now I am edimucated. Got to have good eyes to see the difference but now I know.
Change is made in the write up. Thanks!
Actually, Phil, you only think you are. Dave is right about the ribs, and it is supposed to identify the grounded conductor - i.e. neutral in lamps. One would expect it to be the negative for a 12 v. system, but it really depends if the guy on the assembly line had too much to drink the night before or not. Seriously, I always use a continuity test. Proof positive. And you can feel those little ribs. I always rub a fingernail across the outside of the wire, and that will ID the ribs every time.
 

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Actually, Phil, you only think you are. Dave is right about the ribs, and it is supposed to identify the grounded conductor - i.e. neutral in lamps. One would expect it to be the negative for a 12 v. system, but it really depends if the guy on the assembly line had too much to drink the night before or not. Seriously, I always use a continuity test. Proof positive. And you can feel those little ribs. I always rub a fingernail across the outside of the wire, and that will ID the ribs every time.
I just pulled a heated gear harness out of my just in case storage. The Ribbed wire is definitely the POS feed as it has the inline fuse in it. Your statement that it is the ground is not 100% correct. Continuity test is the best. I did verify that the center pin was in fact the ribbed fused wire.

I found a second Heated gear harness and it too is POS ribbed.
 
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Your statement that it is the ground is not 100% correct.
In cord wiring, like for lamps and appliances, the ribbed conductor is connected to the wider blade on polarized plugs, and to the screw-shell of lamp sockets.

In residential and commercial wiring, the wider receptacle slot is connected to the silver terminals, and is where the grounded (neutral) white wire terminates.

So, Kevin's statement is accurate when it comes to 120v wiring. How a low-voltage gear manufacturer chooses to connect the ribbed wire is an arbitrary decision.
 

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So, Kevin's statement is accurate when it comes to 120v wiring. How a low-voltage gear manufacturer chooses to connect the ribbed wire is an arbitrary decision.
No I was not talking 120V. I was talking about my 12V Heated Gear Power feeds to the battery. My 2 Battery Tenders are also ribbed to POS. I do not think this is by coincidence. At least the 2 spare harnesses, 2 Battery tenders and 2 power cables in my bike that I also looked at. All 6 are ribbed to POS. This is not to say they are all POS but I will make a little wager most are.

When in doubt do a continuity test.

I must agree that the center of the coax style connectors need to be the POS voltage to prevent accidental shorts if the connector touches the frame or a grounding point.
 
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I’m so glad to have found this thread. Both my 12 yr old Gerbing jacket liner and gloves have failed recently, and now I‘ve got a solution! Thanks for the write up. I’ll let you know how it goes...
 
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No I was not talking 120V. I was talking about my 12V Heated Gear Power feeds to the battery. My 2 Battery Tenders are also ribbed to POS. I do not think this is by coincidence. At least the 2 spare harnesses, 2 Battery tenders and 2 power cables in my bike that I also looked at. All 6 are ribbed to POS. This is not to say they are all POS but I will make a little wager most are.
I agree with you here. What matters is consistency when correct polarity is involved.

When in doubt do a continuity test.
Absolutely!

I must agree that the center of the coax style connectors need to be the POS voltage to prevent accidental shorts if the connector touches the frame or a grounding point.
For vehicular use, this is a must, especially when genders are mixed like they are with heated gear.
 
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