Route suggestions for the Alps

[tnman]

Now that my major riding is over for this year, I turn to the computer for research and mapping for my 2023 season. In 2022 I rode over 15,000 miles on trips (I will add to that before the end of the year I am sure) by doing an Iron but challenge on the Ride Around Texas (3,100mi) and a trip to Prudhoe (12,000mi). Now that I have been everywhere north of Mexico in North America, I turn my focus to Europe. I have been fascinated with the Alps and the landscape surrounding them. I am considering flying to southern Germany in the July/August time frame of 2023 to ride for a week on a rented BMW GS or RT. I know this group has a lot of members in the area, what are some of the "must ride" and "must-see" Keep in mind that I only have 7 days of riding. and I usually spend 12-14 hours riding each day (sunrise until near sunset). I am not trying to set a record but I want to take advantage of my 7 days as this is most likely my only chance to ride in the area, although I may revisit the area with family on vacation to do all the touristy stuff. I enjoy mountain roads, twisties, and most of all the scenery that comes with it.

 

[Slammer]

Hooo Boy, Where to start, let´s narrow this down a bit. Do you want the classics: Silvertta, Umbrail, Stelvio, Klausen, Old Brenner... Or Switzerland or Austria, with Liechtenstein or a bit of all three with some of the great Northern Italian lakes thrown in to boot. That could well be done in the envelope you want.
Don´t know about a 12-14 hour a day ride. At that rate you are simply ticking off mountains and passes and take it from me there is no fun in that, because once you have crammed the mountains, they simply start to look alike; all just pointy bits made of rock. So I would suggest perhaps not all the Alps, but a few great rides, taken slowly and with open eyes and a Brotzeit now and then.
But I am sure one or two others will chime in and perhaps we can come up with a grand tour, maybe ride with you for a day or two and then pass you on to the next biker.

 

[ST1100Y]

... I usually spend 12-14 hours riding each day (sunrise until near sunset)...

Not doable in this terrain... narrow, twisty roads, dense traffic, rather high speeds (in comparison...)...
risk of mental exhaustion -> loss of focus -> possible fatal rider error...
Also bear in mind that especially the well advertised "highlights" are known to just everyone, hence crowded... RV's, coaches, Klingon and Dutch flatlanders, etc...
there many, less taken B- & C- roads offering pleasant riding experience and scenery...

 

[Uncle Phil]

I suggest you get the Hermann book which has a lot of good stuff in it - plus listen to Martin and Slammer since they ride the area.

Motorcycle Journeys Through the Alps and Beyond: 5th edition: Hermann, John: 0640105313386: Amazon.com: Books

And you might take a look here -

Uncle Phil - Alps 2008

What we did was base out of a particular areas and then did ride outs from there.
We found most places prefer you to book a room for several days not just one night so that strategy worked well.

 

[Upt' North]

Dolomites, Dolomites and if you get the time the Dolomites.
Did I mention the Dolomites.
The SS242, 243 and 244.
Don't even think about 12 hour days. Beer o'clock is normally around 5.
Upt'North.

 

[Uncle Phil]

A good base for the Dolimites is in Missurina, Italy -

Uncle Phil - Alps 2008 Day 09

 

[Upt' North]

A good base for the Dolimites is in Missurina, Italy -

Uncle Phil - Alps 2008 Day 09

Never heard of it UP, just looked it up. Very nice.
Forgot as well, from the Dolomites, Slovenia is very easily achieved. The road South to North can be done in a day, passes, mountains, lakes, rivers and the roads are peachy. Drops you back into Austria.
I've just decided, I'm planning my next trip.
Upt'North.

 

[Upt' North]

A good base for the Dolimites is in Missurina, Italy -

Uncle Phil - Alps 2008 Day 09

Just checked Phil, we went South from Cortina to Trieste before heading North through Slovenia.
Upt'North.

 

[ST1100Y]

Did I mention the Dolomites.

They had been nice... off season though... but thanx to constant Klingon invasions (with the obligatory loud pipes and extreme speeding) in the past, the Carabinieri have grown really inhibitory...

 

[ChriSTian_64]

One of our forum member, @Moto-Charlie , lives in the U.S. and he has organised a few group tours in the Alps.

He could probably be someone you would like to chat with.

 

[Upt' North]

They had been nice... off season though... but thanx to constant Klingon invasions (with the obligatory loud pipes and extreme speeding) in the past, the Carabinieri have grown really inhibitory...

Can't be any worse than the Black Forest, nothing can be that bad. I was so looking forward to riding through its many twists and turns. There were more Police than tourists and the speed limits were a joke.
Upt'North.

 

[Slammer]

Can't be any worse than the Black Forest, nothing can be that bad. I was so looking forward to riding through its many twists and turns. There were more Police than tourists and the speed limits were a joke.
Upt'North.

I lived in Basel for a few years, so the Black Forest was directly in front of the door, so to speak. Hated it, there are only a few roads that can get your motor running and they are crammed with season plate riders. 30 kmh speed limits and the Fuzz. However just across the Rhein Valley is the Vogese mountains, and they are on another plane of existence all together. Bendy-Wendy, Curvy-Wurvy roads, some with cobble stone surfaces, lonely roads and beautiful roads. Then there are the cities and towns along the route. My favorite was Colmar, that was a Sunday ride to the market and a Flammkuchen, then off to the Grand Ballon d´ Alsace and a Alpine panorama to die for.
I can imagine that the Black Forest must have been like that before it was Disneyfied.

 

[tnman]

Not doable in this terrain... narrow, twisty roads, dense traffic, rather high speeds (in comparison...)...
risk of mental exhaustion -> loss of focus -> possible fatal rider error...
Also bear in mind that especially the well advertised "highlights" are known to just everyone, hence crowded... RV's, coaches, Klingon and Dutch flatlanders, etc...
there many, less taken B- & C- roads offering pleasant riding experiences and scenery...

Not saying I will ride 14 hours there, just giving some context as I am not a 200-mile-a-day guy that has to stop every hour for a 45 min break. Not afraid to put in a long day to take full advantage to see everything I can in a short time period. I don't enjoy sitting at a bar drinking beer, I'd rather be riding and taking in the scenery!

 

[tnman]

Dolomites, Dolomites and if you get the time the Dolomites.
Did I mention the Dolomites.
The SS242, 243 and 244.
Don't even think about 12 hour days. Beer o'clock is normally around 5.
Upt'North.

This is what I am looking for!!!!

 

[Upt' North]

The Petit and Grand St.Bernard passes are nicely linked and don't forget the beer o'clock.

 

[ChucksKLRST]

All the route suggestion are great. You will need to decide for yourself which routes and countries you want to ride in and plan from there. Keep in mind the distances are a lot shorter than here and there is a lot of summer vacation traffic. Maybe taking a organized moto tour is the way to go vs Freelancing. I have done both and the cost seem to be about the same in the long run. The Moto tour will take you to some of the better moto roads and do the nightly accommodation arrangements. You won't need to worry about those. How ever the tour is on a schedule so being able to stop when you want is limited. Going Freelance you have to do all the planning and leg work and worry about where you are going to stay each night and hope you can make the reservation for the time and place you will be. However you can alter that plan as you wish and stay as long or as short in a place as you like. Both have their Pros and Cons. In my case I took the tour first to feel out how Moto traveling in the Alps would be. It gave me some insight on what to expect when I went a couple of years later on my own Freelance trip. The biggest thing I came away with was, a two hundred mile day is more than enough and it gives you time to enjoy the scenery and culture of the area you are in. Don't forget working all the passes with the numerous hairpin turns and traffic, that you will encounter, will be a bit of exercise on the bike. You are going to want to relax in the evening with a nice dinner and a tall Pilsner. If you don't drink beer than maybe a Spezi or a Radler. (You can look those up). In closing 10 hour days are going to be plenty. I have a couple more ride suggestion that I did not see listed above. 1. Is the Alpine Strasse https://www.deutsche-alpenstrasse.de/en/home and 2. the Grossglockner Alpine road. https://www.grossglockner Enjoy your trip wish I could go with you.

 

[drrod]

I second the Dolomites!!! You really can't go wrong anywhere in the Alps, but the Dolomites are indeed special. You can base out of one of the small towns (eg. Arabba, Corvara, Val Gardena) and spend the whole week there and not have wasted a minute.
If you like, I can send you the name of a hotel in Val Gardena where we stayed. The owner is a rider and would take you (as he did us) on a "local" tour on many roads that are not on maps!

Something to keep in mind.....in the Alps, 200 miles/day is a good day. Speeds are relatively low (because of roads, not speed limits). There have been times when I rarely got above 4th gear. If you plan on being in the saddle 12-14 hours a day, you will miss a lot of what the Alps has to offer. eg. extended lunches in small, out of the way cafes

and just stopping to take in the scenery.


As UP mentioned, Herman's book is a good resource.

Biggest danger of the Alps is getting addicted. I have been several times and can't wait to go again. Combination of riding, scenery, hospitality, people.........can't be beat. I guess I have been lucky regarding traffic enforcement. As our "local" tour guide said.....in Italy if you do it "with style" and are not being stupid, they rarely bother you. This is what I experienced but YMMV.

 

[ChucksKLRST]

Just a few pixs of my trip in 2017. Yes the Alps are very addictive. My Colorado Rocky's fix is great but not nearly like the Alps. drrod is spot on.

 

[Uncle Phil]

Of all the places I have ridden (and there have been a few! ), nothing compares to riding in the Alps.
I just want to go back and take one of my ST1100s the next time.

 

[ChucksKLRST]

Not saying I will ride 14 hours there, just giving some context as I am not a 200-mile-a-day guy that has to stop every hour for a 45 min break. Not afraid to put in a long day to take full advantage to see everything I can in a short time period. I don't enjoy sitting at a bar drinking beer, I'd rather be riding and taking in the scenery!

You won't be sitting in a bar, YOU will be sitting in an outside cafe eating your dinner, drinking your beer.