Just starting with the basics, check the throttle cable adjustment and the route they take. Also you know about the hand idle adjustment on the right side, yes?Just finished buttoning it up after an alternator replacement, everything seemed fine. Rode her to work today, after about 15 mins, the idle wouldn't drop below 4500. Any idea what I'm looking for.
Thanks
Did you turn the idle knob counter clock wise?When I start it cold, it's fine. Had a chance to run around town, the warmer it gets, the higher the idle gets, once it cools off the idle returns to normal. Where is this wax module located? Fresh antifreeze after the alternator change, but that doesn't mean there wasn't something already in there. I'll be pulling it apart again tonight, up against the clock. Now, it should be said, I'm running partially naked, both side fairings are off waiting for some connectors for added farkles to arrive. Not sure if this would play in, although it behaves the same putting around town as it does running on the highway for a while and coming to idle. It will start to clime from base idle to 1500, then 2000, then 3000, and up to around 5.
Hoping this is something simple.
Yup, makes no difference once it's high idling, when first started it behaves the way it should and I can adjust the idle.Did you turn the idle knob counter clock wise?
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Do not attempt to turn the idle KNOB, the service manual (warns) instructs you to adjust the idle by using the JIS screw. You should also operate the throttle when adjusting it to remove pressure while turning.Did you turn the idle knob counter clock wise?
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So what is the point of the knob?Do not attempt to turn the idle KNOB, the service manual (warns) instructs you to adjust the idle by using the JIS screw. You should also operate the throttle when adjusting it to remove pressure while turning.
To show you where the screw is of course. My knob and screw are frozen solid. Hope I don't need to adjust the idle.So what is the point of the knob?
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Throttle bodies were removed, and reinstalled to what I believe is the correct spec(measure the gap) at the time of the alt replacement. No throttle body sync, that's a tool I don't have in my arsenal yet, was hoping to use a friends sometime in the near future. Put about 60 miles on it today, and the problem seems hit and miss. Sometimes it drops back to idle perfectly, others its between 2500 and 4500, spun it down the highway, rolled into triple digits, pulled over, 4500. Ran a couple of miles further, 1200, headed for home 3000. Ambient air around 80 degrees.Did you remove the TB assembly? Did you adjust (not tighten) the clamps on the rubber bits to the correct specs? While you could have debris (most likely black paint from the radiator) in the coolant, I doubt that it would cause the problem so suddenly.
Sounds more like an air leak, so something miss routed. After you put everything back together, did you do a TB sync before you put it all back together?
Let us know what you find.
Ask Honda Stupid design if you ask me. If ya make it look like a knob, folks will try and use it.So what is the point of the knob?
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Duhh.. to protect the screw. :chrfl1:So what is the point of the knob?
+1, sounds like a vacuum leak.Sounds more like an air leak,
Once again, if not for the accumulated wisdom here, I would probably be still scratching my head. Still not sure how the leak could have so many variable symptoms, but as soon as I got to the throttle bodies, there it was, plain as the nose on my face, and I got a pretty good sized nose.good luck with that now and hope it all works out for you now. That gives more time to ride instead of fixing.