Sadlsor brake broke - rear

Igofar

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Somebody want to tell him that he destroyed the pistons with whatever he used to clean them with?
All the scratches look like he may have used a red scotchbright pad or something similar :rolleyes:
Be sure to explain to him that scratches in the coated finish will collect more stuff to cause the pistons to stick ;)
I don't want him to think I'm picking on him :doh1::well1::shrug1:

Oh yeah, it also looks like the top bolt hole in your pictures showing thread damage in that one too.
 

Kevcules

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Never seen it.

For almost fifty years, I simply use flat bar and tongue and groove pliers - takes about five seconds.
I've got one exactly like in the picture. They are about $10 and handy. Pliers work also, as you stated.
 
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I should have a replacement caliper and bolt on the way shortly, so I will have a chance to prove this theory.
And as you're not the first to propose this scenario, it seems to be more and more likely. Thanks!
If you get tired of waiting, you can always take the bolt out and see if you can thread it correctly. It worked great for me - my cross threading had not destroyed the threads. Just need to pay attention when putting it back - watch the angle and ensure it goes in at 90 degrees!
 
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Sadlsor

Sadlsor

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If you get tired of waiting, you can always take the bolt out and see if you can thread it correctly. It worked great for me - my cross threading had not destroyed the threads. Just need to pay attention when putting it back - watch the angle and ensure it goes in at 90 degrees!
Indeed.
The bolt is fine, as it is stronger than the aluminum of the caliper itself. I've tried to reinsert it properly, but it gets crossed at about 3/4 of the way in, not before.
I have a tap and die, but am have been told to leave those alone and find a 14mm thread chaser, instead.
Haven't found one, except in pricey sets. Normally I'd be all about buying new tools, but don't see myself using such implements enough to justify the purchase.
 

Kevcules

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If the threads are good in the beginning of the hole, then a tap will work just fine. I would be worried about the tiny pieces of metal you possibly leave inside though, unless you flushed it out well afterwards. Good luck.
 

STRider

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<snip>
I have a tap and die, but am have been told to leave those alone and find a 14mm thread chaser, instead.
Haven't found one, except in pricey sets. Normally I'd be all about buying new tools, but don't see myself using such implements enough to justify the purchase.
A bottom tap can get the job done safely too. It's that taper on the conventional tap that can prevent lining the threads up properly and cause it to attempt to cut a new set offset from the original ones.

One technique that *might work* with a conventional tapered tap would be to carefully, gently start it from the wheel side of the hole rather than from the muffler side. The healthy threads could guide it in correctly. Use your fingers only and stop if you sense resistance not associated with the damaged threads.

The other option would be to find a bottoming tap instead of a tapered tap. A bottoming tap profile more closely approaches that of a thread chaser. I used a bottoming tap just recently to dress threads in the speedometer cable retention screw hole on my CB400F just a couple weeks ago. I did as I just described - it was a through hole, and I went in from opposite side being careful to align the threads as I engaged it.

Of course you need to find a bottoming tap now, which hopefully is easier than a thread chaser.

1621352463995.png
 
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Sadlsor

Sadlsor

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WARNING: Mini-rant!
mini-rant/
So I decided to go ahead and check on new brake pads anyway, as I'll replace the caliper and bolt.
Ron Ayers - about $43, add shipping.
Local Honda dealer parts department - but the pad set is $64, add sales tax @ 11%, who hasn't responded to my request via "Contact Us" on their website, so I called. For the privilege of paying an additional 37%, I speak to young-sounding parts guy, been there 5 months (I had to ask) never heard of ST1300, with essentially a 20-30 year production run, including the 1100.
Never heard of Motorcycle Safety Foundation, essentially around since late 1970s. (Yeah, I totally get that he's not that old. But I heard of President Roosevelt, although I never met HIM, either...) Had to ask for MSF discount. Never hurts to ask.
Told me "I don't know the Motorcycle Safety Foundation, but if you have an account I can look it up." Sees they're not in stock, and doesn't know how long it will take to order and get them in.
(Southern sheriff drawl...) What we have here, is a Failure to Educate!
Another lesson in why I don't usually bother going to dealerships. I have to look up part number, I have to determine applicability, I have to look up pricing, ...I may as well order the damn thing myself.
So I WILL!
/rant
 
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Local Honda dealer parts department - but the pad set is $64, add sales tax @ 11%,
...

Another lesson in why I don't usually bother going to dealerships
You wouldnt say that about my local Honda dealer ...
(Honda of Houston) who first opened in 1993 and who only have professional types behind the counter


Rear pad set: $49.20 06435-MCS-G03

Front pad set: $52.46 06455-MCS-R02
 
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Sadlsor

Sadlsor

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You wouldnt say that about my local Honda dealer ...
(Honda of Houston) who first opened in 1993 and who only have professional types behind the counter
Interesting that you mention Houston - I was relating this story to our CEO at lunch just now, and offhandedly remarked that this experience is typical for the average m/c dealer, with a FEW exceptions mostly in larger cities, who have a good reputation over the years. I told him there are a handful of dealers around that actually have customers fly in, and ride home.
I said probably places like Sloan's (Murphreesboro, TN) and Houston, Dallas, Denver, Spokane, and Bob's BMW in the Northeast.
And here you come back with Honda of Houston.
Amazing. Every once in a while, even *I* am right.
Once in a while, mind you.
 
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WARNING: Mini-rant!
mini-rant/
So I decided to go ahead and check on new brake pads anyway, as I'll replace the caliper and bolt.
Ron Ayers - about $43, add shipping.
Local Honda dealer parts department - but the pad set is $64, add sales tax @ 11%, who hasn't responded to my request via "Contact Us" on their website, so I called. For the privilege of paying an additional 37%, I speak to young-sounding parts guy, been there 5 months (I had to ask) never heard of ST1300, with essentially a 20-30 year production run, including the 1100.
Never heard of Motorcycle Safety Foundation, essentially around since late 1970s. (Yeah, I totally get that he's not that old. But I heard of President Roosevelt, although I never met HIM, either...) Had to ask for MSF discount. Never hurts to ask.
Told me "I don't know the Motorcycle Safety Foundation, but if you have an account I can look it up." Sees they're not in stock, and doesn't know how long it will take to order and get them in.
(Southern sheriff drawl...) What we have here, is a Failure to Educate!
Another lesson in why I don't usually bother going to dealerships. I have to look up part number, I have to determine applicability, I have to look up pricing, ...I may as well order the damn thing myself.
So I WILL!
/rant
This is far too common than you might think. Most Honda dealers are at the bottom of the bird cage. I get my parts through an independent shop. They are Honda oem parts but I get em cheaper than fooling with Honda. And don't even bother taking your bike in for service as they don't know what the hell they are doing. I do most of my own servicing as I can tear my bike up as well as the Stealership.
 
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Sadlsor

Sadlsor

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I do most of my own servicing as I can tear my bike up as well as the Stealership.
My attitude, exactly.
And I can tear it up CHEAPER, too. (I don't charge myself shop labor rates.)
I also know who to cuss out, and where he lives if it gets messed up.
 

STRider

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This is far too common than you might think. Most Honda dealers are at the bottom of the bird cage. I get my parts through an independent shop. They are Honda oem parts but I get em cheaper than fooling with Honda. And don't even bother taking your bike in for service as they don't know what the hell they are doing. I do most of my own servicing as I can tear my bike up as well as the Stealership.
After moving to Oregon I brought my 1100 into the local dealer for a full service. They were giving it to their Gold Wing expert tech cuz he "knows how to care for the bodywork on a motorcycle." After that service my perfect, defect free bodywork had more broken tabs and missing clips than I care to count (all since repaired or replaced).
 

Andrew Shadow

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I don't see how the pin bolt - it's NOT the stopper bolt, that one is fine - can cock the caliper. This is the forward slider pin that fits through the aluminum mounting bracket. This slider pin does not contact the brake pads, that would be at the rear of the caliper.
I have some pics to post, when I have a break (brake?) later at work.
Also, the aluminum bracket is in good shape.
My mistake- I thought you had pointed out the stopper bolt in the video. Doesn't really change the point of the suggestion that I was offering however- that being that anything that causes the caliper to be mis-aligned in relation to the the brake disk can cause binding.
 
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After moving to Oregon I brought my 1100 into the local dealer for a full service. They were giving it to their Gold Wing expert tech cuz he "knows how to care for the bodywork on a motorcycle." After that service my perfect, defect free bodywork had more broken tabs and missing clips than I care to count (all since repaired or replaced).
o_O
 
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