Screws torque for side panel

[karuzo]

Hi everyone,

As a new rider/mechanic, I managed to replace relays, and install a battery tender cable. Nothing complicated, but a start for a new guy. None of this was done on my 1993 st1100, but another bike I own.
I'm studying the factory service manual now on how to remove the side panel. In part I want to practice this, and I think it might be necessary to remove the right side panel to access the coolant reservoir. The manual indicates there are couple of screws. There is also a torque table at the beginning of the manual indicating the torque for 5mm and 6mm screws. In the section of the panel removal it does not indicate the size of the screws to remove. In this case, am I to assume that when I put the panel back I can tighten it with no worries, or do I need to measure the screws and torque accordingly? I noticed in the manual that basically it indicates the size and torque of various elements, so I assume since this side panel has nothing to do with moving parts (or does it?) and not listing the size of the screws, that I'm just ok tightening without torque?

Thanks for reading a newbie's post.

 

[ST1100Y]

Basically, like two fingers, especially the black M5 with JIS cross-head...
However, some sitting in speednuts, clipped into plastic... don't cross-thread those, don't force them, or risk braking the taps of (expensive) fairing parts...
I'd also give the threads a slight smear with copper paste or anti seize...

 

[Al st1100]

quite an assortment of screws there, don't mix them up just beware. Just tighten them as yoou would any screw with a screwdriver handle not an adapter with a ratchet.

 

[MattSTlouis]

I did not know there was a torque for those, I just tighten until if feels right. I never had one back out or get stuck for next time.

 

[karuzo]

I did not know there was a torque for those, I just tighten until if feels right. I never had one back out or get stuck for next time.

From what I can tell, some screws the manual will indicate to torque them, but nothing is indicated on these 2 screws. That said, if there is a way to tell their size, they should be torqued if the size is indicated in the torque table? I have no problem tightening by hand (no torque) this kind of pieces, while definitely follow torque specification for more engine-related items, and alike.
Thanks.

 

[karuzo]

quite an assortment of screws there, don't mix them up just beware. Just tighten them as yoou would any screw with a screwdriver handle not an adapter with a ratchet.

Yup -before I do ANYTHING, I'm accustomed to read and read and read until it made sense and can follow.

 

[Erdoc48]

Yup, no specific torque value- just a little twist and don’t overtighten. My brother taught me a little trick when it comes to tightening screws, especially into plastic- since there’s a lot of heat and cold cycles (from the heat of the bike itself as well as weather), never overtighten, just enough to keep it snug, otherwise you risk breaking plastics because of the heat and cold cycles. Torque values are very important on engine, transmission, and suspension work, relatively less important for everything else, like bodywork.

 

[Upt' North]

Snug is good. No more needed on panel fasteners. Anti seize will be your friend at a later date.
Be especially careful when removing plastics in a cold workshop, they can break lugs real quick.
Upt.

 

[Erdoc48]

One more thing…when replacing the side panels (the long ones that cover the battery on the left and the rear brake MC on the right, I found it always a good idea to use some silicone spray on the rubber grommets as it makes it much easier to re-install (as well as remove the next time) the small plastic ’pins’ that hold the panel in place - otherwise, too much force can break them off.

 

[jfheath]

Modified to hide the fact that I thought we were talking about the 1300. (ie I didn't check !)

The fairing screws always seem to be harder to remove than to fasten.

Take a look at my linked document below. The last two pages show photos, part numbers and description of each of the screws, and where they fit. Don't assume that the screw that you remove was put in its correct place by the last person who fastened it all up. Check out what goes where and why.

The fairing will not crack if the correct screw is used - the screw will tighten against the end of the shoulder before the head puts any pressure on the plastic.

There are some slight variations in the screws that are used for different models, but not many. One bit of advice - if the hex socket head looks the corners are loosing their shape, then throw it away and fit a new one. Once they get like that, they can be difficult to remove. I always have a few spares on hand.

 

[karuzo]

The fairing screws always seem to be harder to remove than to fasten.

Take a look at my linked document below. The last two pages show photos, part numbers and description of each of the screws, and where they fit. Don't assume that the screw that you remove was put in its correct place by the last person who fastened it all up. Check out what goes where and why.

The fairing will not crack if the correct screw is used - the screw will tighten against the end of the shoulder before the head puts any pressure on the plastic.

There are some slight variations in the screws that are used for different models, but not many. One bit of advice - if the hex socket head looks the corners are loosing their shape, then throw it away and fit a new one. Once they get like that, they can be difficult to remove. I always have a few spares on hand.

Article [13] - ST1300 - Maintenance - Fairing Installation | ST1300 Articles

A set of notes about putting the fairing back onto the ST1300. It covers most of the fitting gotchas, which might otherwise catch you out and/or result in broken tags. Also lists all of the fasteners - photos, description,, part numbers, where they fit and why it matters. Very useful for...

www.st-owners.com

Thanks! This is great info.

 

[Al st1100]

The fairing screws always seem to be harder to remove than to fasten.

Take a look at my linked document below. The last two pages show photos, part numbers and description of each of the screws, and where they fit. Don't assume that the screw that you remove was put in its correct place by the last person who fastened it all up. Check out what goes where and why.

The fairing will not crack if the correct screw is used - the screw will tighten against the end of the shoulder before the head puts any pressure on the plastic.

There are some slight variations in the screws that are used for different models, but not many. One bit of advice - if the hex socket head looks the corners are loosing their shape, then throw it away and fit a new one. Once they get like that, they can be difficult to remove. I always have a few spares on hand.

Article [13] - ST1300 - Maintenance - Fairing Installation | ST1300 Articles

A set of notes about putting the fairing back onto the ST1300. It covers most of the fitting gotchas, which might otherwise catch you out and/or result in broken tags. Also lists all of the fasteners - photos, description,, part numbers, where they fit and why it matters. Very useful for...

www.st-owners.com

The fairing screws always seem to be harder to remove than to fasten.

Take a look at my linked document below. The last two pages show photos, part numbers and description of each of the screws, and where they fit. Don't assume that the screw that you remove was put in its correct place by the last person who fastened it all up. Check out what goes where and why.

The fairing will not crack if the correct screw is used - the screw will tighten against the end of the shoulder before the head puts any pressure on the plastic.

There are some slight variations in the screws that are used for different models, but not many. One bit of advice - if the hex socket head looks the corners are loosing their shape, then throw it away and fit a new one. Once they get like that, they can be difficult to remove. I always have a few spares on hand.

Article [13] - ST1300 - Maintenance - Fairing Installation | ST1300 Articles

A set of notes about putting the fairing back onto the ST1300. It covers most of the fitting gotchas, which might otherwise catch you out and/or result in broken tags. Also lists all of the fasteners - photos, description,, part numbers, where they fit and why it matters. Very useful for...

www.st-owners.com

1100's are different

 

[Oldbikefixr]

The fairing screws always seem to be harder to remove than to fasten.

Take a look at my linked document below. The last two pages show photos, part numbers and description of each of the screws, and where they fit. Don't assume that the screw that you remove was put in its correct place by the last person who fastened it all up. Check out what goes where and why.

The fairing will not crack if the correct screw is used - the screw will tighten against the end of the shoulder before the head puts any pressure on the plastic.

There are some slight variations in the screws that are used for different models, but not many. One bit of advice - if the hex socket head looks the corners are loosing their shape, then throw it away and fit a new one. Once they get like that, they can be difficult to remove. I always have a few spares on hand.

Article [13] - ST1300 - Maintenance - Fairing Installation | ST1300 Articles

A set of notes about putting the fairing back onto the ST1300. It covers most of the fitting gotchas, which might otherwise catch you out and/or result in broken tags. Also lists all of the fasteners - photos, description,, part numbers, where they fit and why it matters. Very useful for...

www.st-owners.com

I always check the alignment of the holes through the panels where the shouldered screws go. Misalignment can cause the shoulder lip to catch on the plastic and cause a chip or crack, especially if your bike has been tweaked even a little bit.

 

[Larry Fine]

1100's are different

Ain't that great?!

 

[jfheath]

Oh tish - have I done the 1300 for 1100 hundred error again ?

Thanks! This is great info.

No - its useless - sorry about that - I know the 1100 is very different. I owned two of them. That document that I posted is completely useless in this thread. I'll lose it. Unfortunately, I didn't do a similar one for the 1100.