Shinko Verge 011 Tires

Igofar

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You are correct, I just read your last post, however, I still stand by my comments on you needing to look at the overall picture etc.
Your tire picture looked terrible, and I don’t know many riders who would ride on a tire that looked like that (before your ride).
I even showed the picture to my wife and asked her if she would ride on my bike with a tire that looked like that….
No need to print her reply.
:rofl1:
Maybe you just need to be a little more careful when you inspect your tires.
 

Andrew Shadow

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You are correct, I just read your last post, however, I still stand by my comments on you needing to look at the overall picture etc.
Your tire picture looked terrible, and I don’t know many riders who would ride on a tire that looked like that (before your ride).
I even showed the picture to my wife and asked her if she would ride on my bike with a tire that looked like that….
No need to print her reply.
:rofl1:
Maybe you just need to be a little more careful when you inspect your tires.
You seem to still be mis-reading what was written.
No where in that post is there a photo of what the tire looked like before the start of this ride, and no where was that written.

The first photo is at the end of the ride, not the beginning.
The second photo is after an additional very short distance to get home from where the ride ended.
 

dduelin

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The below is an example of the problem created by the above tread pattern and tread wear indicator location. Total mileage on the below tire is 17,232 Km/10,707 miles.

I was going out for a day ride only, so not that much mileage. During my pre-ride check I didn't see anything that caused me concern about the tires, especially since I wasn't going far. I knew that they needed to be replaced, but I saw no reason for concern about doing a short day ride, especially since it was only around 60°F so the tires wear more slowly.

After riding 536 Km/333 miles, the rear Shinko Verge 011 looked like what you see in photo below. It certainly looked nothing like this when I left home that morning. It got to this point over that short distance.

Tire 01.jpg

After arriving at home, only another measly 76 Km/47 miles further than when the above photo was taken, the below is what the tire looked like. With these tires I need to monitor the total mileage on them as much, if not more, than checking the tread wear indicators to get an idea of how much longer I can run them. Having tread wear indicators in the centre would be useful.

Tire 02.jpg
Back in the day, the mid 2000s, I really liked the Metzeler Z7s on the ST1300 but the TWIs were like this. Off to the side and none in the center requiring a bit of extrapolating and a bit of guess work as to what was left in the center where there are no sipes. Not having a way to pump water out of the center of the contact patch would bother me quite a bit as I often ride in wet conditions.
 

Erdoc48

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I’m one of those that changes tires probably earlier than I need to or should, so in general, I get about 8-9K miles from a set (and I always change them in pairs)- if I see the wear indicators at 1-2/32“ tread, by then they’re usually cupped or the rear is flat/squared in the middle tread, it’s time to swap them out. As far as the Shinkos, I have them on the 94- they ride well, but the only thing I did notice is that when balancing them, I have needed 2 oz of weights to make them balance properly (and this is pre-determining the wheel heavy spot before the tire installation, so that the light spot on the tire matches the heavy spot on the wheel which is not necessarily the valve stem). The only other issue (and I had it in the past with a set of Shinkos) is a decel wobble I haven’t had on other sets of tires (it’s much less now, barely noticeable after changing the steering head bearings recently). The price is right, but I may go back to Angel GT’s or the Metzeler Z8 which I’ve used in the past and never had any issue (and required overall less balancing weights).
 
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just looking at the tire from the rear isn't the best indicator. a tire may look ok in one spot but 180 degrees on the other side could be different. Take a pic of the other side of the tire. I have seen many tire where the cord was exposed in one spot.
 

Andrew Shadow

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just looking at the tire from the rear isn't the best indicator. a tire may look ok in one spot but 180 degrees on the other side could be different. Take a pic of the other side of the tire. I have seen many tire where the cord was exposed in one spot.
I inspect the whole wheel as part of my pre-ride check, full rotation, to evaluate its condition. This is especially the case when I know that the tires are nearing the end of their life.
I do so for the very reasons that you have stated.
 

Igofar

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I inspect the whole wheel as part of my pre-ride check, full rotation, to evaluate its condition. This is especially the case when I know that the tires are nearing the end of their life.
I do so for the very reasons that you have stated.
If this is true, how do you explain having cord appear at the end of your ride?
A tire in good serviceable condition does not show cord coming through unless the person that inspected it did not evaluate it very well.
I hope your a little more observant if you have your wife or passengers on the back.
 

Andrew Shadow

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If this is true, how do you explain having cord appear at the end of your ride?
A tire in good serviceable condition does not show cord coming through unless the person that inspected it did not evaluate it very well.
I hope your a little more observant if you have your wife or passengers on the back.
Easily explained. Re-read my post, that is the entire thrust of the post.
Unfortunately my riding conditions mean that the centre of my tires wear the most. The lack of tread-wear indicators in the centre of the tire, where they are the most needed, makes a determination of remaining miles a guesstimate based on current condition and miles accumulated to date. No matter how accurate that guesstimate may turn out to be in hindsight, it was still a guesstimate in the moment because there is no indicator to reference.

I was going on a very short ride, and only needed enough tire for a very short ride. I knew full well that this tire didn't have 2,000 miles left in it, or 1,000 for that matter. I had no expectation of this tire having any significant mileage left in it because I knew the condition of it and the current miles on it.

If anyone believes that they can state with accuracy that a tire is good for another 300 miles, but is not good for 400 miles, my hat is off to them. Claiming that level of accuracy would preclude me from believing such a claim no matter who made it.
 

Igofar

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Claiming and guesswork is simply that, and should not be relied on.
However, when the outsides of your tire was starting to show worn sipes, lumps, and sunken shapes, that should have been a flag.
I personally would not try and go for even a short ride if my tire was starting to look like that, as it would just be an opportunity to get a flat or blow out, and end up stuck on the side of the road somewhere.
I have had many folks ride in, and tell me they have at least a thousand miles left on their tires, only to have me point out that when they press their thumb into the center of the tire they can feel it’s only paper thin!
One guy came in the garage and was traveling cross country, and his tire looked like yours (before cord showing) and I was worried about him riding on it…he adamantly argued that he had a couple thousand miles left on it etc.
Having a new tire in the corner of the garage, I made a point by taking a box cutter and slicing his tire wide open!
He was shocked when he inspected the cut and realized his tire was only as thick as a piece of paper.
Cut your tire open and see for yourself.
When your tires start changing shape, and you can press your thumb into them easily, I think it would be best to err on the side of caution and not risk riding it further.
But that’s just me.
 
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Never had an issue with Shinko on the front of ST13. There will ALWAYS be those odd experiences :)

:bigpop:
 

Andrew Shadow

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Cut your tire open and see for yourself.
Have, many times.
Having the knowledge from that historical information only forms part of my evaluation however. That information needs to be considered in concert with other factors that also influence the decision. Considering the total allows me to be comfortable with the decision that I make for me.
 
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So- this thread has given me a lot of great information. I currently have Shinko Verges on my 06 ST. I had them mounted and balanced by a local independent shop beginning of last season. I have put on just under 7000 miles and have recently noticed a hum/drone sound from what I felt is the front. Along with that I've started noticing a shimmy or weave at very low speed (below 5mph) on very smooth pavement. Reminds me of a slightly slipped belt in a car tire. And last, the left side of the tire (front) appears to be cupping and wearing a bit more than the right. This makes me worry if there is something structurally at fault with the tire. After reading all this information and advice here- I'm second guessing the tire mounting and even my own reinstallation of the front wheel.
I'm figuring on getting a new set of Verges (I lean toward the price and reviews) or maybe the Roadsmart III. I have seen a tire bead buster at Harbor Freight for $90. Anyone have that or another tire changing method? I used to always do my own tires on my older bike bias tires but got askaired with the bigger radial tires on my newer ST so had them done at a shop. After what I have read here I am more likely to second guess the tire mounting and my mounting the wheel back on the forks. I've had very good results with the Shinko brand on my older bikes and I would feel better doing my own mount, balance, install providing I use all the advice and methods laid out here!
Any opinions?
 

Erdoc48

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Personal opinion, I wouldn’t just get a bead breaker and pay $90 for that, then use tire irons to mount and dismount a tire. I would recommend a dedicated tire machine (manual one to save some cost) like the Rabaconda. It’s sold on Amazon but not cheap at $469 (but you do get what you pay for). I have the Olmaxmotors machine (from Poland) and it works well enough but I like the Rabaconda design better. I like doing my own tires these days as I can inspect the bead surface of the rim and clean it well before new tire installation (because at the shop, are they cleaning it that well??).
 
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Thanks for the reply. I'll have a look at Amazon. Yeah, I prefer to do stuff myself cause I save money and see everything with my own eyeballs!
 
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I’m one of those that changes tires probably earlier than I need to or should, so in general, I get about 8-9K miles from a set .....

8-9K is early? Amazing to me!

I've never embarked on a trip with more than 4 or 5K on the rear, so that's the most I've ever seen there.

And even with that lower mileage, there is already a sharp difference in handling to be felt when replacing the rubber.
 
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