Signs for an out-of-spec valve?

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This is probably a ridiculous question since the testing requires a physical check, but are there "signs" that a valve(s) is out of specifications - I'm thinking something in the exhaust stream, idle issues, noisy valve train, hesitation, etc.? I know that on my Ducati, it is opainfully obvious when the valves need adjusting - bike sounds like and runs like crap and it happens at about 8K on the dot for me and my riding style (I guess I shouldn't complain as that gets me 2K past the factory service interval!)
 
OP
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Since that likely costs more than 4 hundo, I will probably have them inspected at 32K. Darn....
 
OP
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Excellent idea but condo dweller with no garage so hosting would be tough. May scour the DIYs and give it a whirl when the weather warms at a buddy's house.
 

Scooter

This space for rent...
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Don't know what part of the Land of Lincoln you're from but Landon is hosting a TechSTOC in the Indianapolis area in March.

As far as your original question is concerned, I don't think you're going to know if your spec is too tight until you burn a valve. Some have claimed might start to hear some rattling sound if you're running too loose.
 

jfheath

John Heath
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Don't know what part of the Land of Lincoln you're from but Landon is hosting a TechSTOC in the Indianapolis area in March.

As far as your original question is concerned, I don't think you're going to know if your spec is too tight until you burn a valve. Some have claimed might start to hear some rattling sound if you're running too loose.
Typically the clearances get smaller (tighter). There's a definite ticking / rattling if they are too loose.

I got one shim wrong when I replaced them recently. (A shim that I took out seems to have been incorrectly stamped - or incorrectly read - I should have measured it rather than reading the figures). This resulted in a slightly tighter than spec valve. I could tell when I fired the engine up. It sounded 'tight'. No knocking or anything like that. It just sounded heavy. The screwdriver to the ear trick on each inlet/exhaust port reveals a lot of what is going on inside.

From cold, after getting all valves to mid tolerance, there is a slight ticking when the engine is started, and the screwdrive/ear interface reveals nicely working mechanics. After a minute or so, the slight ticking disappears as the engine warms.
 

Tor

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This resulted in a slightly tighter than spec valve. I could tell when I fired the engine up. It sounded 'tight'. No knocking or anything like that. It just sounded heavy.
I had 3 exhaust valves out of spec (and a few others on the tight side of spec) when doing valves recently. I went ahead and brought all exhaust valves back to middle and loose side of spec. I seems like it runs smoother with less vibration after the valves were brought back. The engine also seems to run "easier". This is just what I felt when riding the bike right after I finished it up.
 

jfheath

John Heath
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screwdriver to the ear? Like tonto? Can you explain how that works?
Yes. Get a broad handled (i) screwdriver. Place the blade of the screwdriver on the engine block as near to the inlet port or exhaust port as possible. Place your ear against the handle end (ii). Listen. Move it to another place. Listen again. You can hear what is going on inside the engine, closest to the blade. Try it. I suppose a stethoscope would be better, but it this works fine.

Its something I used to see my dad doing when I was a kid. I've always thought it was common practice.

(i) Broad handled for comfort.
(ii) Best if you've not been using it with greasy hands before doing this.
 
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